'96 Tahoe Diesel - Keep G80 or Get Mechanical OX-Locker?

Tahoe Diesel

Observer
I plan to do a lot of off-road trails for fun/exploring/camping/fishing/hunting but NO rock crawling (can't afford to be breaking stuff in the middle of nowhere) - So, given my intended use, is the rear G80 gov-loc diff gonna lock when I need it and get me out of trouble, or is it more likely to break and get me into trouble instead?

If there's any doubt, I think I'd get a mechanical OX-locker, simple and reliable full lock diff from what I've read.
 

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader
Just MHO

From what I have read OX may be out of buiseness?? Sad since other than cable issues they seemed to be a good unit. I would go either ARB (which give you an excuse to have air on board or some version of an E locker. Bomb proof is Detroit but you'll pay for it in the odd attributes during driving and extra tire wear. So for a non rock crawler a selectable locker is way more in your interest...
 

KLAKEBRONCO

Adventurer
It's a different axle but I beat the living crap out of my G80 in an 11.5 in a Duramax, including some time with a programmer, and it worked fine. I'd even say great in low speed situations.
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
I worked for GM for many years. Lose the gov lock, it will eventually fail, and probably take a bunch more expensive parts with it especially in the 8.5" 10 bolt. At least that was the case with the hundreds of failures I repaired during my stint with the general.
 

Tahoe Diesel

Observer
From what I have read OX may be out of buiseness??

Shoot! I hope not, I did quite a bit of research on selectables a while back (for different rig that I ended up selling) and I was liking the cable op over the air/elec types. I rember reading about the cable issues, which iirc had more to do with people installing/routing them incorrectly.

It's a different axle but I beat the living crap out of my G80 in an 11.5 in a Duramax, including some time with a programmer, and it worked fine. I'd even say great in low speed situations.

I think that difference makes a difference; someone else told me to swap out my 6 lug 10 bolt for a 6 lug 9.5 14 bolt with the G80. Apparently the 8.5 10 bolt is weak.

I worked for GM for many years. Lose the gov lock, it will eventually fail, and probably take a bunch more expensive parts with it especially in the 8.5" 10 bolt. At least that was the case with the hundreds of failures I repaired during my stint with the general.

Jeep,

I just had the cover off, replacing the oil. Everything looked good inside; nice even wear patterns, no chipped teeth or metal particles in the oil. The PO wasn't into spinning wheels. A few people have suggested just keep the G80 till she breaks, then swap for better. But I don't want it to break and leave me stranded miles from civilization. - Will the truck be in-op if the G80 breaks, or will it get me home?
 

shortbus4x4

Expedition Leader
The biggest problems I have seen with the gov-lock is people who put big tires on it and then don't maintain it. If you maintain it it should last you a while, they will wear out eventually though. I would be on the lookout for a six lug 14 bolt rearend though because they are a lot stronger.
 

Rot Box

Explorer
I have seem a lot of "Gov-Bombs" fail in 10 bolts through the years. From what I have seen I don't think this differential is up to moderate offroad use. Maybe new they are fine, but most trucks that have them have quite a few miles on the odo by now and I wouldn't feel comfortable taking the chance.

For what you plan to do have you looked into the Detroit Tru-trac? These work very well especially compared to friction plate limited slips and they are hardly noticeable on the street. Just a thought.
 

78Bronco

Explorer
The 10 bolt is similar to a dana 44. If this is going into a heavy vehicle that will see wheel hops and pounding it will break. Light wheeling and respect of the skiny pedal it will last, tires no bigger than 35's.

I am surprised a GM diesel comes with a 10 bolt diff, maybe a 12 bolt?. My 4cyl Mitsubishi has a 9.5" diff semi floater.
 

Tahoe Diesel

Observer
The biggest problems I have seen with the gov-lock is people who put big tires on it and then don't maintain it. If you maintain it it should last you a while, they will wear out eventually though. I would be on the lookout for a six lug 14 bolt rearend though because they are a lot stronger.

I'm a maintenance maniac :Mechanic: :D, and I'm running 32" Geolander A/T-S, and wouldn't consider going bigger than 33's, cuz then I'd have to lift her, and I just don't have the moolah or the inclination for that (this is also my daily driver). So I think I'm gonna take your advice and take her easy on the 10 bolt till I can find (and afford) a 14 bolt. I will put a selectable locker up front for now, as someone else has suggested, and that should help take some stress off the 10 bolt rear too.

What did the 6 lug 9.5 14 bolt with the G80 come stock in?

I've been told you can find them in a HD 1500 C/K truck.

For what you plan to do have you looked into the Detroit Tru-trac? These work very well especially compared to friction plate limited slips and they are hardly noticeable on the street. Just a thought.

When I originally did my research I decided that If I was gonna buy aftermarket, a selectable locker was the best option for me. I like the simplicity and use-it-when-you-need-it control. Not really interested in an auto system unless it already came with the truck (as in my G80)...too bad it's not more durable, as then I'd probably just keep it in there.

Thanks to all for helping with this decision!
 

shortbus4x4

Expedition Leader
I believe the six lug 14 bolt came in a light duty 2500 series vehicle that had six lugs with a semi floating rearend. I know in the pick ups it is pretty much a bolt in swap. Not too sure if it came in the suburbans/blazers but if it did it would be a pretty easy swap. I think the van axles would be too wide.
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
It "might" get you home if it grenades but why risk destroying a good ring and pinion. If it's in good shape and tire size is close to stock and you inspect it regularily it will last. One good stuck and some hard driving will cost a few bucks though.
 

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