1997 was a weird year; some frame parts and cab parts are different from the rest of the Dakotas
2000 saw the introduction of the 4.7L 3.7, 45rfe and rack and pinion for 4x4’s
2001 saw the introduction of a new more modern dash and interior design
2003 saw the introduction of dual piston calipers and combined the TCM/ECM into one computer.
Dakotas and durango’s had a massive upper balljoint recall, the uppers were non grease able and came apart 60-100K. To tell if yours has been replaced it should have bolts instead of rivets holding it to the UCA and a zerk fitting as well.
The 4.7L is an excellent engine, def 300K if maintained. If you severely overheat it will drop the valve seats. Only flaw I had it that the 8mm bolts that hold the cast iron header to the aluminum head tend to break. Stock internals are strong, I’ve seen guys run 11-12 sec ¼ miles running forced induction on 4.7L’s with completely stock internals. IMHO it’s a great engine.
The 45rfe/545rfe that back the 4.7L are great trannys, def 300+K if maintained, they are also used behind the 5.7l hemi, and diesel liberties. 45rfe/545rfe is just a TCM change for an extra 5th gear, if you get a 2001 you can swap in a GC TCM and gain the extra 5th.
The nv3500 backed 4.7L’s if you got a stick. And stock vs stock IMHO is the best combo for gas mileage and power, they ran faster than any R/T on the strip.
All V8 dakota’s also got the massive 9.25” axle the 8.25” is not bad either that backed V8 RT durangos and the rest of the lineup. IMHO great rear axles for this truck.
You have to get a V8 in a Dakota. The 4banger was flawed and the 3.9’s and 3.7’s get almost the same fuel economy as a V8 since the Dakota’s and are fullsize heavy.
Expect horrid mileage, I averaged 12-13mpg in my stock 2wd 4.7L CC My stepfathers 4.7L ram got 11.3MPG. (this is all phoenix city driving BTW)
Front ends on all 4x4 dakota’s are weak. 97-99 had a flange style axleshafts with a dana 35 cast iron center section. 2000-2003 went to clipped tulip shafts and used the c205mm aluminum differential which tends to implode even with small tires and moderate wheeling. I’ve never seen an axle shaft break it’s always the differential housing that explodes. The front CV style driveshaft is junk, but any driveline shop can make a u-joint style one for 200-300 bucks
The wheel pattern is 6x4.5 which makes for small front unit bearings and limited wheel
choices (the viper, and some early 2000’s nissans share it) never change wheel backspaceing unless you want the front unitbearings to fail.
Always replace parts with American or Japanese equivalents (ex Timken, SKF, raybestos preium yada yada yada) the ebay/autozone Mexican/Chinese parts will FAIL
Never re-use the 2wd spindle nuts, they will loosen even with lock-tite.
Frames are strong. Dakota frames are thicker, wider and taller than comparable year tacoma’s.
There’s no aftermarket for dakota’s better get used to custom fabrication.
The 4.7L and 45rfe are the only stock parts left on my truck, I neutral dropped my 45rfe and bent my 1/8” wall driveshaft (doing burnouts); oh and I’am on 39” pitbulls with 4:10 gears (-: I have beat the crap outta my truck since I got it in 2005, and it just asks for more. Other then one header bolt i've never ever had anything 4.7L/45rfe related break.. ever! And I've done everything from boiling over, drag racing, burnouts, intakeing water and dust and mud to hardcore rock-crawling.
To the OP find a 2003 4.7L with the stick and 3.92's, you will have a great engine/tranny/axle combo and have the better brakes for towing. (trust me, the single piston calipers are inadequate for anything, even without front ABS I could never get the fronts to lock up, even on 28" tires....)
here's mine back in the day
and now... she's all grown up! (the Bodylift is still on the bed but not the cab BTW LOL!)
