97 E350 Crestline Ambo Build/Mod

[Bikersmurf]

New shoes... government surplus. About $60 usd each. New condition.View attachment 548394View attachment 548395

New shoes are on. Initial impressions are : steering is lighter/easier, tracks straighter, ride is about the same.

General Grabber HTS are a mid-range tire, so I’m a bit surprised they feel nicer on the front end than the TOYO Open Country HT. They are worn to about 50%, but still in great shape.

 

[Bikersmurf]

They also like this... although the 40 will likely be going out today instead.

 

[Bikersmurf]

Small fuel leak. While running a small drip would form every 2-3 seconds on the fuel restriction valve.



Solution...


From the jobber, Amazon, and other sources the OEM Ford valve $110 CDN

From the International dealer $69 CDN or about $50 USD. The OEM International valve is about the same price as getting one shipped to me... and they had it in stock.

Many PSD owners have used a 1/4” npt plug to delete this sensor. The argument is that if you replace the filter regularly, the sensor is useless and prone to leaking.

I’ve decided to replace it to protect my injectors, fuel systems, etc. The OEM valve lasted a very long time... likely 23 years. For $50, I’d rather have the insurance... just in case something causes the fuel system to get plugged up... Since $4!+ happens... and it all costs $$$$$$

 

[Abitibi]

Always good to be proactive! I'm going the opposite way, I'll be deleting my fuel bowl completely and modifying a few things along the way, lol.

 

[Bikersmurf]

Always good to be proactive! I'm going the opposite way, I'll be deleting my fuel bowl completely and modifying a few things along the way, lol.

I’d love to delete the fuel bowl, fuel regulator, can driven fuel pump... but it’s a slippery slope. Once I start down that path it’d be a small pile of larger bills, and a whack of time.

I’ve had a coolant filter sitting on a shelf for a year or two now. I have to prioritize my time... more so energy. I hate the balancing act I have to do every day to remain functional.

The fuel bowl is such a pain. However it works well, and being all rebuilt it should be good for another six years and 150k miles. I would however like to add an eternal fuel pump & water separator In-line between the fuel tank and the engine. I fell that it would improve the quality of fuel going into the fuel bowl and thereby reduce the frequency of replacing its filter.

Servicing a fuel bowl on an F series is a cakewalk in comparison to an E series. E series owners are well aware of this. As much as I love my 7.3 powered. van, I feel it shouldn’t have just been shoved into that tiny engine compartment.

At.Very least, they should have moved the fuel pump and fuel bowl to somewhere they can be readily accessed with the cab still in place. I was recently watching a 7.3 repair video prepared by a Comercial diesel shop. The owners comment was that he often has newly hired diesel mechanics replace a mechanical fuel pump on a pre ‘99 7.3 PSD. If they can manage to get it done they pass the test and he keeps them on... If not, he pays them for their time and sends them on their way. I’ve not replaced mine yet, but having re & re’d the fuel bowl in front of the pump, I feel I could pass his test... especially since I’d never seen anyone do it before, and it was my first big repair on the E350. It is one of the more difficult jobs on a pre 99 and completing it is more a test of patience than straight skill. It’s all working blind in an area that can barely be reached... such a great design.

 

[Bikersmurf]

I didn’t bother taking a picture of the installed sensor. I thought these might be more interesting. I found the thin bracket that held the intake resonator box (or whatever the useless thing is called) was broken.

My first thought was to weld it... but some foolish PO brazed it. As though a thin layer of brass would hold a but joint together where steel broke. The only thing the brass did was make it so welding would be a pain.

Therefore...

After a test fit it needed some tweaking:

Installed:

A scrap stainless bar stock to the rescue.

Seeing this pic makes me realize my how badly my engine needs a bath... especially now after the fuel leak.

 

[eporter]

Keep up the good work. I was pretty intimidated by the lack of room on the 7.3 ambo and all I did was replace the massive 215 amp mitsu alternator! Huge engine + massive extra wiring cables = a lot of puzzle moves to get the thing out & back in. Watching a YouTube video on alt. replacement on an F350 and it’s just, “ok, reach right here, undo these bolts, lift right up.” Same deal on fuel filter. I figured an F350 ambo or smaller v8 motor in a van would be easier to deal with. Then I got a V10 E350 chinook and learned about the spark plug issues. It’s always something!

 

[Bikersmurf]

Keep up the good work. I was pretty intimidated by the lack of room on the 7.3 ambo and all I did was replace the massive 215 amp mitsu alternator! Huge engine + massive extra wiring cables = a lot of puzzle moves to get the thing out & back in. Watching a YouTube video on alt. replacement on an F350 and it’s just, “ok, reach right here, undo these bolts, lift right up.” Same deal on fuel filter. I figured an F350 ambo or smaller v8 motor in a van would be easier to deal with. Then I got a V10 E350 chinook and learned about the spark plug issues. It’s always something!

How true. Shortly after buying it, I thought it needed glow plugs. So... I ordered a set and a new relay for good measure. What I knew for sure was that the glow plugs weren't heating up. I figured that I'd replace the Glow plug relay before pulling the valve covers and replacing the Glow plugs. Turns out the relay was completely dead So... I still have the Glow plugs waiting on my to do list... Replacing them is kinda like replacing spark plugs, only ones that are beneath the valve covers to boot.

After seeing Pictures of Abitibi’s 7.3, I feel a little less shame about the state of mine.

 

[Bikersmurf]

Sooooo.... as luck would have it, a Friend of a friend had some ‘97 7.3 parts up for sale. He wanted more cash than I wanted to part with, but did take a Stihl Chainsaw I had that I didn’t need and a little bit of Cash in Trade.

So now I’ve got a set of injectors and a HPOP from a 85k mile truck to replace my 225k mile (almost 18k hour) injectors. Do I need injectors... no, but my last trip to the bottle depot more than paid for these Injectors and a HPOP. They were pulled out of a low mileage 7.3 when some 150 + hp injectors were swapped in. I certainly don’t need a 400 hp 7.3. Mine does just fine as it is.

I think I’ll swap in the fresher injectors when I put in the glow plugs. It’ll be a bit more work, but I shouldn’t need to do it again in the next 25+ years.

 

[Bikersmurf]

Win some and loose some... Score 1:1

This is what sucks about E series...

I was chasing a small fuel leak. I was getting a drip every 30 seconds or so... had one person say don’t worry about it but no one would accept a gasser dripping fuel, so why should diesel be any different.
I decided to replace the fuel filter, fuel pump, and anything else that was leaking while I had it open. Pulled all the air intake rubber and the pipe from the turbo to the intake manifolds without a hitch. Exhaust side of turbo... check. Turbo pedestal... no go.
After fighting the 10mm pedestal bolts for a bit... I did some more research. Most people resort to 1/4” drive sockets for the Bolt below cold side outlet. Since my 1/2 & 3/8 weren’t allowing me to get straight onto the bolt, and I haven’t bought a long enough 1/4” extension yet, I decided to throw in the towel and let the E350 score a point.
Instead I replaced the fuel filter and took the easy shot. After installing the filter, very carefully installing the O-ring and cover, I threw it back together enough to start it up. No more fuel weeping from the seal at the fuel bowl lid. Score a point for me.
After letting her run for 10 minutes... no drips, no weeping around the fuel bowl, no leaks I the valley, no cracks in the rubber fuel lines, and no leaks anywhere else. So I’ve buttoned her up for now.

Some other day I’ll tackle the turbo removal... fuel pump, injectors, and glow plugs. For today, no leaks, so it feels like a small victory.

 

[Abitibi]

Not a fun job but no going around it either. I never wanted to have to do it again so I deleted my valley filter and rosaces it with a larger one down on the frame...

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[Bikersmurf]

Not a fun job but no going around it either. I never wanted to have to do it again so I deleted my valley filter and rosaces it with a larger one down on the frame...

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

The fuel pump is a much worse job. I even had its bolts out... then I threw in the towel because the turbo wasn’t cooperating with coming out.

While I was in there I found two exhaust manifold bolts that I had lost their heads. I suspect they had succumb to the rigid up pipes. For now I’ve left them alone... I may have to switch to billowed up pipes... but I’d rather not spend a small fortune on them from a Canadian supplier... I’ll have to check the International dealer again.

 

[Bikersmurf]

So it turns out these terminals are crap. I bought them off amazon a couple months back, and the first time I took the battery out and put it back in they snapped. I contacted amazon since they are under warranty and got an automated reply that they’re short staffed etc. So I don’t know if I’ll ever get a replacement or want one for that matter.

Since my rig was down I replaced them with these instead.

Billet aluminum terminals. Took a little shimming to get them fitted but much better quality.

 

[Bikersmurf]

When installing them i should have wrapped the second terminal in plastic. Unlike normal cars, the terminals remain live because there are four batteries. Learn from my mistake and don’t repeat it.

problem has developed since the change. The stating batteries aren’t changing from the alternator. Also the regulator isn’t properly reading charge voltage so it’s putting out 15.2-3 V.

when I hit the sure start switch alternator works properly. Now to find the break in the circuit?

 

[Bikersmurf]

Found the problem. Behind the passenger side headlight... hidden by the battery. Starter solenoid 1 of 2.

The corroded terminal had loosened off.

Symptoms:
House batteries getting 15.2-15.3 V
Starting batteries not charging

When I put a wrench on the second large terminal, the starter solenoid crumbled.