utherjorge
Observer
Is that tag for the rear axle or for the front? I assume rear...but still very cool regardless!
98 Isuzu Amigo - The Darcy Build
- Thread starter gknapp
- Start date
Dances with Wolves
aka jk240sx
My '94 Rodeo had speaker pods in the rear.
SRN
Adventurer
Probably. You can also check the firewall plaque. If it has the code "G80" on it, you have a factory LSD.
gknapp
Member
Yep! Rear axle. There is a second tag, but it is so far gone I can't make out what it says.
Are the worth it? Do they help? I am trying to improve overall sound presence.
And there it is! I am curious what those other option codes refer to.
One of the kiddos helping out today. Taking measurements for a rear cargo/drawer system I am designing. "Not as cool as a land rover, dad."....I beg to differ.
SRN
Adventurer
1100 Isuzu Option Codes. Original link in that thread is dead, but the codes are copied a few posts down.
SRN
Adventurer
I'd hunt around on Planet Isuzoo. There are a bunch of writeups on swapping alternators. I had a 90A in my Trooper for awhile, but I could never get the pully to line up quite right. So when I did my DOHC swap/rebuild I went back to the stock alternator.
utherjorge
Observer
There's a company not so far from me out of Cleveland called Brand X. They're local and build things new. Friends of mine say they're very popular with the tuner scene for those with stupid-big stereos. They also were super receptive with returning messages via Facebook. The fact that they responded to me super fast was a huge plus.
I'm pasting below their prices for sizes they sent me on Facebook. Again, they claim to be a direct bolt in for the 3.2. I have not yet pulled the trigger, but I'm about to have a heavy duty batt put in, and am now thinking about pulling the trigger.
hairpin: 160 amps is 245$, 180 amps is 265$, 200 amps is 285$, 250 amps is 319$, 300 amps is 355$, 320 amps is 375$ these units peak around 1800-1900 engine rpm. They idle around 150-160 amps at engine running temp. This rating is based off a 700-800 rpm idle. If you idle below or above that number you will see fluctuation at idle.
345 amps is 405$ and requires 700+ rpm at idle if under 6.75” at the crank pulley or a larger than 7” crank diameter pulley to function at idle on the 345 amp. You’ll see 160+ amps at idle in that case.
All units come with a lifetime warranty at parts cost for repair or rebuild. 3-4 weeks is average lead time All of our prices are shipped to the continental US. on all custom order units.
Powder coat is 45$. All color options can be found in Eastwood powder coat website.
I'm pasting below their prices for sizes they sent me on Facebook. Again, they claim to be a direct bolt in for the 3.2. I have not yet pulled the trigger, but I'm about to have a heavy duty batt put in, and am now thinking about pulling the trigger.
hairpin: 160 amps is 245$, 180 amps is 265$, 200 amps is 285$, 250 amps is 319$, 300 amps is 355$, 320 amps is 375$ these units peak around 1800-1900 engine rpm. They idle around 150-160 amps at engine running temp. This rating is based off a 700-800 rpm idle. If you idle below or above that number you will see fluctuation at idle.
345 amps is 405$ and requires 700+ rpm at idle if under 6.75” at the crank pulley or a larger than 7” crank diameter pulley to function at idle on the 345 amp. You’ll see 160+ amps at idle in that case.
All units come with a lifetime warranty at parts cost for repair or rebuild. 3-4 weeks is average lead time All of our prices are shipped to the continental US. on all custom order units.
Powder coat is 45$. All color options can be found in Eastwood powder coat website.
gknapp
Member
Started on the cargo thing today.
3/4" Birch. 24"x38.5" was the final size to allow room for the carpet and keep everything snug.
Commercial carper with a rubber backing. Adhesive spray, clamps and staples.
Corner brackets to keep everything taught. Probably unnecessary, but one of my corner cuts was a bit wild. Now its covered.
Drilled stock holes to 3/8". Bolted it in with new hardware.
Step 1 is complete. Now time to figure out the drawer.
3/4" Birch. 24"x38.5" was the final size to allow room for the carpet and keep everything snug.
Commercial carper with a rubber backing. Adhesive spray, clamps and staples.
Corner brackets to keep everything taught. Probably unnecessary, but one of my corner cuts was a bit wild. Now its covered.
Drilled stock holes to 3/8". Bolted it in with new hardware.
Step 1 is complete. Now time to figure out the drawer.
gknapp
Member
Started the drawer platform. 12mm birch. This is at full extension, it will stick out another inch or so once complete. The drawer slides are just undermount slides from Home Depot. 66lbs or close. Plenty for what I have planned.
It will be capped in 0.75 HDPE. The top and sides, hiding the rails. I have used HDPE for other cargo management projects, and it has always turned out really well. I wasn't quite ready spend $250+$60 shipping on two plates of 24x24 HDPE. Too expensive for a project this small. So instead I ordered two of THIS. Extra large HDPE cutting boards. I can rip them down to the correct cuts I need with minimal waste.
The point of this slide out tray is for ease of access (probably obvious). The Rally Top hatch does not open very high and I am constantly hitting my head on the edge when reaching in the rear. The truck would have to be lifted at least 9" more for me not to hit my head; right now I am standing a whole head height above the roof of the car . I don't think a 2" lift will remedy this problem. Frequently accessed gear will be stored on this drawer. Extended just enough to keep my face out of bumping range.
I want to bolt a storage box to this drawer. I just don't know if I am ready to drill holes in one of my larger Pelicans. A Plano will have to be the guinea pig.
While waiting for the cutting boards, I need to figure out some sort of plunger latch or pull pin latch to keep the drawer closed.
It will be capped in 0.75 HDPE. The top and sides, hiding the rails. I have used HDPE for other cargo management projects, and it has always turned out really well. I wasn't quite ready spend $250+$60 shipping on two plates of 24x24 HDPE. Too expensive for a project this small. So instead I ordered two of THIS. Extra large HDPE cutting boards. I can rip them down to the correct cuts I need with minimal waste.
The point of this slide out tray is for ease of access (probably obvious). The Rally Top hatch does not open very high and I am constantly hitting my head on the edge when reaching in the rear. The truck would have to be lifted at least 9" more for me not to hit my head; right now I am standing a whole head height above the roof of the car . I don't think a 2" lift will remedy this problem. Frequently accessed gear will be stored on this drawer. Extended just enough to keep my face out of bumping range.
I want to bolt a storage box to this drawer. I just don't know if I am ready to drill holes in one of my larger Pelicans. A Plano will have to be the guinea pig.
While waiting for the cutting boards, I need to figure out some sort of plunger latch or pull pin latch to keep the drawer closed.
utherjorge
Observer
How snug? A different guy on Facebook put (I think) the same cover on and expected it to rub...which is no bueno.
Regarding panhard bar: supposedly Calmini has one. No clue what it does or why you'd get it...assuming they do anything other than steal your money. A few others were doing them in small batches, but I believe those people have all dried up.
gknapp
Member
The picture is a bit disorienting, but it's just shy of .5" away.
I saw Calmini's option. A bit pricey and with their reputation, I think I will stay away. I can't see the benefit of adding a bend. Extending or moving the axle bracket should solve the problem of the axle being pushed (pulled?) to one side after lifting. I have some tube and rod ends coming today. I am going to fart around and see if I can come up with an adjustable panhard rod. Nothing fancy. Just something universal to service. The bushings on the current bar are a bit chalky and wiggly.
gknapp
Member
Whoever designed the stock rear panhard should be fired. Boogery welds. Unnecessary holes. Silly bushing design. With an arsenal of rod ends, heim joints, and misalignment spacers I still couldn't get it quite right. 21mm stud on the axle, 12/13mm bolt on the frame mount. 50mm width on one end, 55mm on the other. I understand why. But why!? I'm just going to have someone with more resources and knowledge fab one up.
In other news...I made new flappy wheel well things. Driverside was ripped. Passenger side was stretchy.
In other news...I made new flappy wheel well things. Driverside was ripped. Passenger side was stretchy.
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