A camper worth waiting for
- Thread starter flossandfredsadventures
- Start date
flossandfredsadventures
Member
Hence the choice to start looking into this project 12 months before work can start. Hopefully with my proficiency with CAD this particular delay can be kept to a minimum.
We'd love to complete the journey that you have. Ideally, if funds allow, we would ship from Buenos Aires to Antwerp after the Pan American and drive back to Aus that way. At the least this would have the advantage of dealing with Australian customs upon reimport only once. I see you had relatively easy dealings when you returned, that's pleasing to see.
Where did you source your lithium related products for your latest upgrades?
Thanks again for posting, another great source of inspiration!
gait
Explorer
in most projects an hour spent in planning is worth 10x hours (or some such ratio) trying to correct or make changes later ..... planning and thinking is far from a delay .... the build itself was a bit over 6 months of my full time.
Li I purchased four cells, solar regulators, inverters and motorised isolator are off the shelf, BMS (cell and battery management including SOC) are my diy with Arduino and TI chip. I treated it as a systems integration project. Solutions are becoming easier.
Li I purchased four cells, solar regulators, inverters and motorised isolator are off the shelf, BMS (cell and battery management including SOC) are my diy with Arduino and TI chip. I treated it as a systems integration project. Solutions are becoming easier.
flossandfredsadventures
Member
This is the conclusion that I am heading towards as well. It seems that the manufacturers of the off the shelf BMS's like to overcomplicate their systems when even I would feel reasonably comfortable programming the high and low voltage protection with individual cell readings myself. Did you choose to implement cell balancing?
Was there a store in Australia that you used to buy your cells and off the shelf components or did you just utilise good old eBay?
gait
Explorer
Winston cells from http://www.thebackshed.com/basiclynatural/ViewCat.asp?CL1=17&CL2=53&CL3=NA
everyone cell balances. After initial balance the extremes are periodic monitoring and manual balance if required or continuous monitoring and balancing. All shades of grey in between. I chose continuous based on a TI BQ76PL536A chip. GNE balancer works well on daughter's 8S off-grid system but emits a low volume whistle which may or may not be audible/annoying in motorhome. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3S-...hin-10mV-the-best-solution-to/1950876697.html
high voltage cutout can be as simple as Victron BMV directly switching off Victron MPPT Solar Regulator (the data port can be configured for remote on/off). I have my Arduino energy management in between (because I can - single display of cells, battery volts, SOC, solar/battery/load watts, water levels/usage, water temperatures, shower temperature control, etc). Low volts I turn off inverter first (Arduino relay to switch on inverter), fridge has its own cutout. I don't like mechanically switching high DC currents. I have a motorised isolator but haven't connected it to Arduino, just a switch on main panel. Alternator backup is direct connect through a motorised isolator with switch on panel and volt meter in cab. No shore power, I've connected a 240v charger on a couple of occasions in 8 years. I also use excess solar when battery full to heat hot water.
more important than the electrics was the bed lift to create space in the house, size/location of windows, and general ergonomics such as angled seat backs and squabs and bench layout and door location to minimise two people passing each other etc. You are going to spend a lot of time in the vehicle so make it comfortable and liveable.
everyone cell balances. After initial balance the extremes are periodic monitoring and manual balance if required or continuous monitoring and balancing. All shades of grey in between. I chose continuous based on a TI BQ76PL536A chip. GNE balancer works well on daughter's 8S off-grid system but emits a low volume whistle which may or may not be audible/annoying in motorhome. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3S-...hin-10mV-the-best-solution-to/1950876697.html
high voltage cutout can be as simple as Victron BMV directly switching off Victron MPPT Solar Regulator (the data port can be configured for remote on/off). I have my Arduino energy management in between (because I can - single display of cells, battery volts, SOC, solar/battery/load watts, water levels/usage, water temperatures, shower temperature control, etc). Low volts I turn off inverter first (Arduino relay to switch on inverter), fridge has its own cutout. I don't like mechanically switching high DC currents. I have a motorised isolator but haven't connected it to Arduino, just a switch on main panel. Alternator backup is direct connect through a motorised isolator with switch on panel and volt meter in cab. No shore power, I've connected a 240v charger on a couple of occasions in 8 years. I also use excess solar when battery full to heat hot water.
more important than the electrics was the bed lift to create space in the house, size/location of windows, and general ergonomics such as angled seat backs and squabs and bench layout and door location to minimise two people passing each other etc. You are going to spend a lot of time in the vehicle so make it comfortable and liveable.
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flossandfredsadventures
Member
Fantastic, that's a great setup that you've got there and I appreciate the detailed reply. I am also of the thinking that I would be placing a small priority and expense on the shore power charger as even with the lead acid cells we use now, we rarely plug in to supplement the solar (and that's in sunny England!)
Thanks for the details of that battery supplier too. The cells are competitively priced and if I know they are legitimate then all the better.
Thanks again
I couldn't agree more. As interesting and useful as it would be to sort out all my systems integration right now, other things need to be sorted first. I have a fairly clear idea of the layout in my mind and some loose modelling on CAD as to what we think we'd like. Quite similar to what we already have as we really like the fixed bed setup. It will likely also be somewhat similar to the way EC layout their models. Very different to the larger seating area of yours.
Thanks for the details of that battery supplier too. The cells are competitively priced and if I know they are legitimate then all the better.
Thanks again
Mr Rehab
Traveller
We've kept our 6 tonne camper on QLD registration while travelling overseas since 2013. We (and others) have an arrangement with QLD Transport to have an inspection completed overseas, email back a copy and receive a 'Reciprocal Certificate of Inspection'. We can then renew online using the Certificate number; its a nuisance but doable. Better to go with the WA rego if practical.
flossandfredsadventures
Member
That's very helpful indeed, thanks for letting me know! I figured there must be some way around it but I didn't think it would be legal... I think I'll do my best to keep it under the 4500kg as that will keep everything well within its limits and less cumbersome on the tracks. At least it I decide the compromise is too great, there are other options.
flossandfredsadventures
Member
Well we're not winning many prizes at the moment, but hopefully that won't be reflected in my camper build!
Depending on how much space you plan to allocate for your fridge and if you require a freezer also, you may wish to check out solar or off grid specialty suppliers in Oz. Sundanzer builds them here in the States using LG shells, made in Sweden and the world renowned Danfoss BD35 or a derivative thereof. Even at 165L or 225L, the energy consumption is quite good, besting many 60 - 80L fridges from majour brands.
If you are on the road and not boon-docking this may be less of an issue. National Luna makes excellent quality freezers and fridges if you have the coin. They are bulletproof.
Being an engineer, you could easily build your own panels if you are so inclined. Once you get stuck into the materials and find good suppliers, it really is like building with a Mecchano set or Legos. Cheap, light and simple in almost any colour, thickness, facing material, etc. There are quite a few options for sealing the panels once assembled (homogeneous coatings) that can add insulative properties, reflect heat/light or provide a smooth/hard finish similar to a ski boat hull.
If you are on the road and not boon-docking this may be less of an issue. National Luna makes excellent quality freezers and fridges if you have the coin. They are bulletproof.
Being an engineer, you could easily build your own panels if you are so inclined. Once you get stuck into the materials and find good suppliers, it really is like building with a Mecchano set or Legos. Cheap, light and simple in almost any colour, thickness, facing material, etc. There are quite a few options for sealing the panels once assembled (homogeneous coatings) that can add insulative properties, reflect heat/light or provide a smooth/hard finish similar to a ski boat hull.
flossandfredsadventures
Member
Building my own fridge is certainly an interesting concept that as of yet I've not looked into. I think for at least this initial build it would come down to cost and time as to whether or not I could squeeze it in. At the moment and in our current state of travel we never use the freezer and in fact we removed it to gain extra fridge space. However, when I start to think of the sorts of places the truck will be taking us, perhaps this food storage mechanism needs revisiting. Having a tall fridge/freezer will impact on kitchen bench space which may not please the chef (my girlfriend is actually a chef...). I had thought that if we found the need for a freezer that perhaps something like an EvaKool chest freezer could be added to the underbed storage and probably only draw 25A/h/day, similar to that offered by the Sundanzer (which really look the business by the way). I'd not looked into anything other than the usual vehicle oriented fridge companies and standard household fridges so I thank you for the suggestion.
flossandfredsadventures
Member
Now that I have re-read it I see what you mean! I shall also keep that in mind when searching out solutions.Witchdoctor Oz
Adventurer
Building a compressor type fridge is not a big issue. The build for me was the easiest part once I accessed the parts but getting a person to charge the system with gas was a way harder undertaking. Most fridgies just did not wish to get involved ended up getting an A/C guys to do what needed to be done.