kellymoe
Expedition Leader
High in the White Mountains of California are two drain ages that hold a wealth of rock that rivals the amount and quality of that found in Joshua Tree. Because of the high elevation of 9000 to 10000 feet you can climb all Summer long as opposed to the stifling heat of Joshua Tree. Access is via the Ancient Bristle Cone Pine road out of Big Pine or the steep Silver Cyn Rd. out of Bishop. Once on the top of the crest a 4x4 is needed to get to the climbing areas of Cottonwood Creek and Crooked Creek.
This past weekend I drove up to meet a local climber from Bishop to get on some routes I had been eyeing this Summer. We climbed one of the larger formations in the Crooked Creek drainage. The route we chose was the most aesthetic line on the dome, it was the steepest, thinnest and most direct and the one line that had the highest probability of failure because it was the steepest and thinnest.
I was fortunate to draw the straw for the lead, I racked up with several small wire stoppers as well as small camming units as the crack from the ground looked like it would be eating up all the small pro I had. I through in a few #2 and 2.5 Black Diamond Camalots just for good measure, this would come in handy latter. As I started out the crack took pro and finger jams easily and I quickly gained a mid point where ther was the only fist sizes crack on the climb that was easily protected with the larger Black Diamond Cams. At this point the rock steepened and the crack thinned and I was really unsure if I would be able continue. As I searched for a weakness I noticed perfect little edges protruding from the rock on either side of the crack. I stuffed the crack with a few small, very small wired nuts that would probably hold a fall and continued up to the small overhang at the top. A few delicate face moved and a few more wired nuts and I was soon over the top and setting up belay for Tom my climbing partner to begin his ascent.
The Crooked Creek area is perfect area for those that enjoy "overland" travel or four wheeling, whatever you choose to call your travel choice. Being accessible by 4x4 only it keeps the crowds down, in fact I have never seen another climber up there in the 5 years I have been going there. Bring a standard traditional rack, extra slings to leave behind for rappelling off some of the formations.
The season tends to last from May through October but this is all dependent on snow.
Camping is primitive, stay in already established sites and dont stay too close to the stream, the ground there tends to be a little soft and it will damage easily.
Deep Springs College runs cattle through Crooked Creek in the Summer, be coureous to the cowboys and the cows.
Here are a few pictures of the area and the route we climbed, sorry no action shots we were too busy climbing.
This past weekend I drove up to meet a local climber from Bishop to get on some routes I had been eyeing this Summer. We climbed one of the larger formations in the Crooked Creek drainage. The route we chose was the most aesthetic line on the dome, it was the steepest, thinnest and most direct and the one line that had the highest probability of failure because it was the steepest and thinnest.
I was fortunate to draw the straw for the lead, I racked up with several small wire stoppers as well as small camming units as the crack from the ground looked like it would be eating up all the small pro I had. I through in a few #2 and 2.5 Black Diamond Camalots just for good measure, this would come in handy latter. As I started out the crack took pro and finger jams easily and I quickly gained a mid point where ther was the only fist sizes crack on the climb that was easily protected with the larger Black Diamond Cams. At this point the rock steepened and the crack thinned and I was really unsure if I would be able continue. As I searched for a weakness I noticed perfect little edges protruding from the rock on either side of the crack. I stuffed the crack with a few small, very small wired nuts that would probably hold a fall and continued up to the small overhang at the top. A few delicate face moved and a few more wired nuts and I was soon over the top and setting up belay for Tom my climbing partner to begin his ascent.
The Crooked Creek area is perfect area for those that enjoy "overland" travel or four wheeling, whatever you choose to call your travel choice. Being accessible by 4x4 only it keeps the crowds down, in fact I have never seen another climber up there in the 5 years I have been going there. Bring a standard traditional rack, extra slings to leave behind for rappelling off some of the formations.
The season tends to last from May through October but this is all dependent on snow.
Camping is primitive, stay in already established sites and dont stay too close to the stream, the ground there tends to be a little soft and it will damage easily.
Deep Springs College runs cattle through Crooked Creek in the Summer, be coureous to the cowboys and the cows.
Here are a few pictures of the area and the route we climbed, sorry no action shots we were too busy climbing.
