A.R.E. Aluminum DCU “camper lite” build

[Bella PSD]

A.R.E. Aluminum DCU “camper lite” build

I have kicked the fiberglass cap trend I have had going for 15 plus years.

This aluminum cap will become my everyday cap: sort of the Swiss army knife of truck caps for my F350. This A.R.E is not meant to replace my Flip Pac camper for camping. I would call this build just enough to get by camping. As a commercial photographer I am also looking to have a place to work on camera files on the road, so I will work that into the cap too.

So begins the build…..

I ended up with an A.R.E. Aluminum DCU cap that's 29” tall model. That means its only about 3” taller than the truck cab. On other trucks, the 29” model will be even higher up on the truck cab than the Ford Superduty. This was the biggest decision I had to make, do I want the cap higher than the truck… The extra roof height has its drawbacks but the added headroom made it more than worth it.

One other benefit to the extra roof height was the back doors and especially the side doors have been enlarged with the taller 29” model. The side compartments are truly huge.

Security was a concern for me having camera gear loaded up in the cap. No fear with this cap. It has folding heavy duty SS T handles and each door locks in 3 places.

The back door also has Security screens over the glass for added protection.

One reason I like the two-door option on the side is someone would have to break into 5 separate doors to get everything.

I have also started test fitting a Con Ferr roof rack I have from my fiberglass cap. I like how this A.R.E. Aluminum cap does NOT have a factory rack. I can build it just the way I want or just stick with the Con Ferr roof rack.

 

[Bella PSD]

10 picture limit reached, continuing....

I have to say the fit is pretty good for an aluminum cap. Not as form following as a fiberglass cap but not bad at all, I’m happy with the fit.

The cap pictured on the truck is not the one that's going to be built. I have an exact copy of this one that will get painted red to match the truck as soon as I get the rack mounted/built and any other holes drilled.

Louie

 

[tommudd]

Can't wait to see the other one on there after its painted, should really look sharp. Friend used to have one on his Ford just like that painted to match ( his was the dark green)
Keep up the great work!

Tom

 

[jim65wagon]

Nice Louie! It'll look really cool in red.

 

[Bella PSD]

I have it all sanded down ready for paint. All the doors are off to be painted separately. I need to primer the Stainless Steel handles with acid etching primed so I can paint them black before I go to the body shop. Might get to that in the next day or so.

I am researching LED taillights and turn signals for the back of the cap. The extra high pair of brake lights will help be seen better when I get the rear swing out tire built.

Still not sure on the fit of the Con Ferr rack. But I would like to get that figured out before the paint goes on.

Here is a quick Photoshop creation of the red color and LED taillights in the back of the cap. Also looking at single LED clearance lights.

 

[Every Miles A Memory]

Looks like its going to be a sweet build.

I'll let you know a few things we've had issues with from our A.R.E. DCU which we've logged close to 100,000 miles in the last 4 years.

A big issue for me was where the back of the cap meets the Tailgate lines of the bed. There are small gaps in there that arent air/water tight. I tried foam padding, but after time and miles it wore out.

I had been looking for the expandable foam like you use to fill gaps around your house soffits, but in a black. I've yet to find it?

The only other major problem is to remember to watch what you put inside the storage bins. If something small falls and gets in the way of the swivel mechanism, the door cannot be opened.

I also ditched the stock hardware the gave me to mount it to the truck bed and drilled some hefty holes through both the cap and the truck bed. I then used Grade 8 Bolts with Nylock nuts and have yet to have one loosen.

I'm looking forward to watching this Roof Rack Build, because I have the same cap and might be able to steal some ideas from you:victory:

 

[taylorRichie]

http://www.pondandgardenwholesalers.com/servlet/the-194/black-waterfall-pond-foam/Detail

Black expanding foam

 

[Every Miles A Memory]

Thank you for that link! The internet RULES!!!

 

[greg mgm]

Very nice truck and shell.
I really like the storage shelves with the side doors.
It looks very secure too.....Good job!

 

[Bella PSD]

I will have to post a few photos of the progress.

So far I have removed the 4 side doors in preparation for painting the cap red. I have also painted the 5 SS handles low gloss black. Removed and filled the doorstop posts holes on the back doors. Sanded it all down and cleaned up all the sealer that’s used from the factory to seal up the seams.

As far as the roof rack goes I am going to keep the Con Ferr for now. I have test fit a 1/8 wall rectangle tube that’s 3”x1”. This rectangle tube will run the length of the roof on both sides (front to back) and bolt through the roof to four plates of steel that are 3/16”. The plates of steel are welded to the frame of the cap. This should hold the weight from the roof rack just fine.

Now for the LED lights on the back. Here is what I want. Separate LED turn signals and brake light. Looking for 2.5” round but open to most anything that’s about 2.5 wide by 5” long. Need the LED lights to be dual mode or act as a marker light AND signal or brake. Not having much luck finding one that small that does the dual function and has a least 10-15 LED’s. Anyone have a clue on this.

Also on the LED lights, I am looking to run an LED controller to run these as strobes or flashers.

Just wanting to drill the holes for the lights and rack before paint goes on. I will work on sealing up the rear gap after the install of this cap. BTW, I sold the other ARE DCU cap the other day!

 

[Bella PSD]

Looks like its going to be a sweet build.

The only other major problem is to remember to watch what you put inside the storage bins. If something small falls and gets in the way of the swivel mechanism, the door cannot be opened.

OK, that's good to know. Does your cap have the inside skin? I wonder if that would help....

Louie

 

[Every Miles A Memory]

I'm not sure what the Inside Skin is, but all of the mechanism for the locks is exposed on the inside of our doors if that says anything.

I now try and make sure that if I have anything loose or small that could bounce around inside the side bins, I try and tie it down to keep from blocking the locking mechanism

 

[Bella PSD]

A.R.E. offers an inside steel skin to stop inside dents from tools moving around in the box. Maybe that would not leave a space for things to jam up and stop the locks from working.

I am Planning on cutting down some Insulation 4'x8' board used on houses to fill in the back side of the doors. The boards have some insulation factor as a bonus and will stop the dents from the inside. Now maybe the 3/4" thick boards will also stop the problem of the locks jamming.

 

[failsafefabrication]

Re DCU build

Nice Job Bella,

I have a DCU that I am working; the aluminized insulation works well on these, and it cuts down on the locks jamming quite a bit, plus it helps a lot with the colder days. If you fur out the aluminum skin with wood it will cut down on condensation as well.

 

[OTR]

Looking good Louie. The pioneer tool trailer I bought from you made to Alaska with no problems. I just put some new tires and tubes on it, greased it up and updated the wiring. I got a ton of questions from people about it. One lady asked if it was a smoker and some guy asked if it was a bear trap. Oh, the border crossing was interesting due to it being a military trailer:elkgrin:

Jason