A tale of 2 Xterra's

[Dalko43]

Dalko, are you upstate NY native? I grew up and lived in western Pa until moving to Az in 05, that looks pretty normal for a 3 year old truck back there. Guys who've lived in the west or southwest all their life have no idea what underbody rust is....

The question is how does that look compared to other 3 MY old trucks?

Yes, I am an upstate NY native..I just never really paid attention to the under carriages of vehicles until now....

I know rust is a common issue up here, but it seems to have a thick coat on some key parts of the suspension and power train (leaf springs and rear diff). I'd imagine that those will need replacing within the next 25k miles.

 

[monte67]

I have a 2012 Pro4-x automatic that I purchased 1.5 years ago for $20K with 33K miles. It is an incredible car, not a squeek in it. I previously had a 1984 Land Cruiser that I drove 325K miles. I did not ever think I would say this, but the X is twice the vehicle the Land Cruiser was in terms of comfort, where it can go with the automatic vs. a stick. I hope the manual transmission guys don't get too excited about this comment, but I did drive my Land Cruiser MT further than most people ever drive a vehicle and it was a wonderful car that never left me stranded and handled off road in Death Valley and other places beautifully.

The choice that I needed to make when I became serious about the Colorado Plateau and serious off road was an automatic vs. a MT. I never thought I would opt in the direction of the auto until I drove an Unlmited Wrangler in the Moab area and was able to go places my Land Cruiser would have suffered due to the necessity of slipping the clutch in very difficult situations.

Of the two vehicles, the 2012 is the better deal, but the rust on the bottom is not terrific. Also, do you really want an MT? If so then, the 2012 would fill the bill. However, if you might consider an auto, then keep looking as the auto is superior in most circumstances for off road and that is coming from someone who drove only MT most of his life. Of course others will argue this point, but off road and for towing, an auto cannot be beat.

 

[nasko]

While not great to look at, this is only surface rust. It will definitely last much longer than the 25K miles mentioned. If I were to buy it, I would make sure that I oil spray rust/ proof it every year. Living in Ontario, Canada, I do that to all my vehicles. The above pictures might look bad to guys from the south, but this is pretty normal for up here. If it bothers you, you can always clean it up with a wire brush and then rust proof it. Cheers

 

[noahski]

Go for the 2012. Change diff fluid at 30000 is correct. If you upgrade your diff cover just change it then. I run full synthetic mobile 1 and change at about every 7k miles. The rear leafs will sag eventually. Mine haven't and I have 30500 miles on mine. Bought mine new in Nov of 2012 with 4 miles on it. As for the hitch you're better off getting a rear bumper with a tire carrier and built in recovery points. If you want to learn a lot about the truck check out the forums at thenewx.org. Here are a few pics of mine

 

[Dalko43]

Of the two vehicles, the 2012 is the better deal, but the rust on the bottom is not terrific. Also, do you really want an MT? If so then, the 2012 would fill the bill. However, if you might consider an auto, then keep looking as the auto is superior in most circumstances for off road and that is coming from someone who drove only MT most of his life. Of course others will argue this point, but off road and for towing, an auto cannot be beat.

Yeah, the more I think about it, the more I realize that a manual, while fun to drive on the road, may become more of a burden during off-road and technical driving. I realize the advantages of the manual (simplicity of maintenance and repair, push starting with dead battery, gear control, slighlty better mpg), but the Xterra's auto (with the exception of early 05-09 models with the SMOD issues) has been noted for its reliability and performance (also has granny gears for when downshifting is required). I think I could see myself driving an auto, just depends on the price tag.

While not great to look at, this is only surface rust. It will definitely last much longer than the 25K miles mentioned. If I were to buy it, I would make sure that I oil spray rust/ proof it every year. Living in Ontario, Canada, I do that to all my vehicles. The above pictures might look bad to guys from the south, but this is pretty normal for up here. If it bothers you, you can always clean it up with a wire brush and then rust proof it. Cheers

If I do buy this one, I will definitely follow your advice on spraying it/cleaning every year.

On a side note, because I am now considering auto Xterra's, there is private sale of a used (34k miles) Auto 11 Pro-4x with a load of mods that has caught my eye:

Shrock front bumper, Maxterra rear bumper, sliders, Snorkel, Gobi Ladder, High Lift Jack, SPC Upper Control Arms, Radflo 2 Front Coils, 1" nisstech lift top spacer, Add-a-leaf, adjustable shackles

Pics:



Owner is asking for a price that is similar to what the 2 previously mentioned dealers are asking for their Pro-4x's, which has caused me to seriously reconsider my options. It seems like a good deal to me in terms of value. I obviously need to test drive and inspect the vehicle for myself before I commit to a buy, but what do you all think on this as an option?

 

[calicamper]

One thing is for sure the added gear are a near loss regarding recovered investment for the prior owner ie seller.

 

[Allof75]

I would highly suggest going for a private party car, then you can get to know the owner a bit, they're more likely to have service history, and can get a better price I.e. they probably won't try to inflate the value out of hand because they're not making a business out of it. Look on Craigslist or autotrader for deals, you might find a great one for even cheaper, though the modded one looks like a good deal. Just check to make sure the mods are done correctly, I typically prefer to buy stock so I know it's done right. Happy hunting.

 

[Dalko43]

Also, if I am considering an auto should I be concerned about SMOD issues? I've read that it was mostly 2005-2008 model Xterra's that exhibited those issues, but I never really found out what Nissan did to address these auto issues in the later model years.

 

[702krawler]

I have a 2011 Pro-4x with a manual, and I love it (the manual, not necessarily the Pro-4x package). If you're proficient with a manual, and use low range appropriately, I don't expect you'll ever have a need to gratuitously slip the clutch. I also tow with my manual, again, with no issues (I spend a great deal of my time off road in 4-low). Others on here may have different driving techniques (some seem very concerned about using low range "too much"), while others still may tackle extreme rock crawling terrain that I don't, so as always, your mileage may vary.

That being said, if you're paying cash, then I'd take a good look at a manual S 4x4. The money you save could be used to make your Xterra better than the Pro-4x.

 

[702krawler]

One other thing with regard to price. Any dealer who tells you a price is only good that day, is generally one you want to avoid. You have a truck now (judging by your signature), so you don't NEED the Xterra right this second. Being detached and unexcited about any vehicle is the way to go when buying (as hard as that is). Despite what any dealer will tell you, you can always find another of whatever you are looking for.

As for pricing, there are two prices, the price the dealer lists it for, and the price you're willing to pay. The price isn't THE price until you both agree. If you really like the second Xterra where the guy raised his asking price after you left, I'd confidently go back and offer him the original price (or less), but be prepared to walk away if he balks. Though if he was willing to accept a certain price x days ago, there's no reason he would not accept it now. It isn't like used Xterras appreciate in value. Though I would strongly heed previous comments with regard to him likely being a "jack wagon".

 

[Dalko43]

I have a 2011 Pro-4x with a manual, and I love it (the manual, not necessarily the Pro-4x package). If you're proficient with a manual, and use low range appropriately, I don't expect you'll ever have a need to gratuitously slip the clutch. I also tow with my manual, again, with no issues (I spend a great deal of my time off road in 4-low). Others on here may have different driving techniques (some seem very concerned about using low range "too much"), while others still may tackle extreme rock crawling terrain that I don't, so as always, your mileage may vary.

That being said, if you're paying cash, then I'd take a good look at a manual S 4x4. The money you save could be used to make your Xterra better than the Pro-4x.

Yeah, I hear what you are saying. I am not looking to do any serious rock crawling either; rather I am more focused on finding trails and roads that are off the beaten path and are worth exploring (overlanding, though I've heard the distinction between the 2 has blurrred as of late).

I am more than capable with a clutch and shifter. The only reason I was even considering the auto is because there is a mildly used auto Pro-4x, with a lot of mods, that is going for a decent price. The simplicity and 'direct feel' of a manual does appeal to me though.

Do you ever find yourself losing momentum between shifts though with your manual? I'd imagine that with a modded (heavy Xterra) that might be somewhat of an issue, right?

Edit: Also, the one other issue with manual vs auto is that with an auto I can do a bolt-on titan swap on the front suspension, with the manual, due to gearing, the process isn't so simple.

One other thing with regard to price. Any dealer who tells you a price is only good that day, is generally one you want to avoid. You have a truck now (judging by your signature), so you don't NEED the Xterra right this second. Being detached and unexcited about any vehicle is the way to go when buying (as hard as that is). Despite what any dealer will tell you, you can always find another of whatever you are looking for.

As for pricing, there are two prices, the price the dealer lists it for, and the price you're willing to pay. The price isn't THE price until you both agree. If you really like the second Xterra where the guy raised his asking price after you left, I'd confidently go back and offer him the original price (or less), but be prepared to walk away if he balks. Though if he was willing to accept a certain price x days ago, there's no reason he would not accept it now. It isn't like used Xterras appreciate in value. Though I would strongly heed previous comments with regard to him likely being a "jack wagon".

Agree with all of this. I don't absolutely need a SUV right now, though I do want one badly. But I do intend to wait some of these dealers out a bit...their prices shouldn't be going anywhere but down.

 

[702krawler]

I am more than capable with a clutch and shifter. The only reason I was even considering the auto is because there is a mildly used auto Pro-4x, with a lot of mods, that is going for a decent price. The simplicity and 'direct feel' of a manual does appeal to me though.

If they are mods you like and would do anyway, it might very well be worth considering. It just depends on how much you insist on a manual. For me, it was a baseline requirement.

Do you ever find yourself losing momentum between shifts though with your manual? I'd imagine that with a modded (heavy Xterra) that might be somewhat of an issue, right?

Yes, there are times I've lost momentum when shifting (climbing hills), though it has never caused me an issue. Also, I really shouldn't have been shifting climbing a steep grade anyway. There was a time (before I ever took up offroading) when manuals were pretty much the tool of choice for offroaders. Now, automatics have overcome their previous disadvantages by offering hill descent control and other such items. At this point, I'm not sure it matters too much in terms of capability.

Edit: Also, the one other issue with manual vs auto is that with an auto I can do a bolt-on titan swap on the front suspension, with the manual, due to gearing, the process isn't so simple.

You could very well be right here, though I think there is a way to do a Titan swap with a manual. If that's very important to you, then I'd definitely weigh it in my consideration. When I first saw the Titan swap, I thought it was something I absolutely had to do, but then I thought about the time and expense, and the fact that I've never really "needed" it, so I've decided it isn't for me (and hence haven't done much additional research into how to do it with a manual). If you aren't doing rock crawling, it is probably not really a requirement. Articulation is "cool", but if it is really important to you, you might look at a Wrangler.

 

[Dalko43]

The Xterra I am heavily considering has an Airflow Snorkel already installed. I know how the system works in general. The only concern I have is how it is affected by heavy rainfall or snowfall (which is to be expected where I live). How does this type of snorkel setup avoid pulling in rainwater and snow?

 

[wreckdiver1321]

The Xterra I am heavily considering has an Airflow Snorkel already installed. I know how the system works in general. The only concern I have is how it is affected by heavy rainfall or snowfall (which is to be expected where I live). How does this type of snorkel setup avoid pulling in rainwater and snow?

Shouldn't be a problem in the rain.



Heavy snowfall is a different story, but in those situations, I'd just turn the head around.

 

[Dalko43]

Shouldn't be a problem in the rain.



Heavy snowfall is a different story, but in those situations, I'd just turn the head around.

Yeah, I know in theory the intake snorkel head should rain during rainfall, but during very heavy rainfall i'd imagine some water gets down the pipe.

Also I thought you weren't supposed to turn the snorkel away from the direction you are driving (like 180 degrees opposite from your direction of travel). The air intake of your engine is soley reliant on that air getting rammed down the snorkel by your forward movement...right?

Any other feedback on how to deal with snowfall with the snorkel setup?