Adventure Tool Company's "RhinoRide60" Land Cruiser: Part 2 (2023)
- Thread starter BritKLR
- Start date
NMC_EXP
Explorer
I have an 85 FJ60 with a SROR rear bumper installed by a previous owner. Like yours, has a spare tire carrier and ladder.
Question: Does SROR still exist? I cannot find a website. Asking because the 'T' handle locking pins for the swing outs are damaged and I need replacements. No luck finding a supplier.
I have an ARB front bumper w/winch. When I bought the vehicle it had a high lift jack mounted to the top rail same as yours. I eventually removed the jack because on washboard trails I could see the bumper was moving a lot due to all that weight up high. Could be your non winch bumper does not extend out from the frame as far so there is less flexing. Might want to keep an eye on that.
Question: Does SROR still exist? I cannot find a website. Asking because the 'T' handle locking pins for the swing outs are damaged and I need replacements. No luck finding a supplier.
I have an ARB front bumper w/winch. When I bought the vehicle it had a high lift jack mounted to the top rail same as yours. I eventually removed the jack because on washboard trails I could see the bumper was moving a lot due to all that weight up high. Could be your non winch bumper does not extend out from the frame as far so there is less flexing. Might want to keep an eye on that.
BritKLR
Kapitis Indagatoris
Post a picture of your truck would love to see it.
it's my understanding that Solid Rock Off- Road (SROR) went out of business maybe 10 years ago. Tim(?) the owner was based in Castlerock, Colorado and constructed his bumpers, sliders, rock sliders orginally out shop and then moved to his house. I heard that he shut down SROR due to the challenge of running his own small business and the difficulty of getting people to pay on time but, he got back into Toyota/Lexus repair and sold his designs to another bumper company, not sure who they are.
As I understand it, my bumper was #001 with the rear quarter rock sliders welded to the bumper and bolted to the frame and the ladder was my design to hold a 5L fuel can. Have no clue if more was made that way.
As for the "T" handle locking latch, they have been a known issue since the original design. They have been known to shear off if the locking clamp breaks and the swing arm (with the full weight of the spare, etc...) flies open and shears the "T" handle pin and then the spare takes out the rear fender, window and "D" pillar...ouch....I carry a spare "T" handle, locking clamp and cotter pin in my field repair kit just in case. I found the "T" handle and locking clamp on Amazon maybe 10 years ago.
I also welded in a 1/4 inch steel plate and cotter pin lock next to the locking clamp to stop the swing gate from breaking loose if the clamp breaks (look at the clamp closely and you may see the "U" strap starting to stretch or bend).
As for the ARB and Hilift, I've been through two ARB's bumpers. One, non-winch and the second winch bumper with a WARN 8274. Both have always carried a 60 in Hilift on custom aluminum posts and locks. While I agree with you that you will see the bumper loops and hilift vibrate on bad roads or trails I've not seen a structural problem in well over 100k miles. As a matter of fact, the ARB non-winch bumper, hilift and mounts all survived a T-bone crash when a minivan ran a stoplight in front of me, so I trust their construction. Yet, I appreciate your suggestion!
NMC_EXP
Explorer
Paul
Thanks for the reply.
Good to know you have no problem with the hi-lift on the ARB bumper. I concluded with my ARB w/winch that was a long cantilever and I chickened out after seeing all that flex. Anyway, I was in process of cutting down on the weight I carried. Only so much you can do with 130 HP. So I carry a bottle jack an some wood blocks now.
Front and rear photos of the 60. Pikes Peak in the background of the front pic taken on the slope of Black Mtn.:
Mary made privacy curtains so we could sleep in the rig. Rear curtain in place but the bumper is visible.
Main problem with my 'T' handle locks is the plastic 'T' handles broke off. Have to pry them open with a screwdriver. Plus the ladder on my bumper bangs into the roof drip rail on rough trails. Added some padding to the ladder to help that out.
Hate to say but I'm trying to work up the resolve to sell this rig come spring.
Regards
Jim
Thanks for the reply.
Good to know you have no problem with the hi-lift on the ARB bumper. I concluded with my ARB w/winch that was a long cantilever and I chickened out after seeing all that flex. Anyway, I was in process of cutting down on the weight I carried. Only so much you can do with 130 HP. So I carry a bottle jack an some wood blocks now.
Front and rear photos of the 60. Pikes Peak in the background of the front pic taken on the slope of Black Mtn.:
Mary made privacy curtains so we could sleep in the rig. Rear curtain in place but the bumper is visible.
Main problem with my 'T' handle locks is the plastic 'T' handles broke off. Have to pry them open with a screwdriver. Plus the ladder on my bumper bangs into the roof drip rail on rough trails. Added some padding to the ladder to help that out.
Hate to say but I'm trying to work up the resolve to sell this rig come spring.
Regards
Jim
BritKLR
Kapitis Indagatoris
Paul
Thanks for the reply.
Good to know you have no problem with the hi-lift on the ARB bumper. I concluded with my ARB w/winch that was a long cantilever and I chickened out after seeing all that flex. Anyway, I was in process of cutting down on the weight I carried. Only so much you can do with 130 HP. So I carry a bottle jack an some wood blocks now.
Front and rear photos of the 60. Pikes Peak in the background of the front pic taken on the slope of Black Mtn.:
Mary made privacy curtains so we could sleep in the rig. Rear curtain in place but the bumper is visible.
Main problem with my 'T' handle locks is the plastic 'T' handles broke off. Have to pry them open with a screwdriver. Plus the ladder on my bumper bangs into the roof drip rail on rough trails. Added some padding to the ladder to help that out.
Hate to say but I'm trying to work up the resolve to sell this rig come spring.
Regards
Jim
Beautiful truck! Thanks for sharing!
I see a couple of things.
First, you have a first gen ARB bumper for your 60 and I have the second gen. Not sure of the engineering/ structural differences but, I recall being told by the ARB Rep back when I bought it that the second gen was designed to be stronger and more rigid (eg: shackle recovery points and hilift lifting points that didn't need an adapter or cuts in the bumper) and second you have the dual swing arms on your SROR bumper versus my single swing arm. I remember Tim talking about wanting to change to dual arms but, I've never seen one. Nice looking!
As for selling, Good luck and I bet it won't be on the market long! Be safe.
BritKLR
Kapitis Indagatoris
Paul
Thanks for the reply.
Good to know you have no problem with the hi-lift on the ARB bumper. I concluded with my ARB w/winch that was a long cantilever and I chickened out after seeing all that flex. Anyway, I was in process of cutting down on the weight I carried. Only so much you can do with 130 HP. So I carry a bottle jack an some wood blocks now.
Front and rear photos of the 60. Pikes Peak in the background of the front pic taken on the slope of Black Mtn.:
Mary made privacy curtains so we could sleep in the rig. Rear curtain in place but the bumper is visible.
Main problem with my 'T' handle locks is the plastic 'T' handles broke off. Have to pry them open with a screwdriver. Plus the ladder on my bumper bangs into the roof drip rail on rough trails. Added some padding to the ladder to help that out.
Hate to say but I'm trying to work up the resolve to sell this rig come spring.
Regards
Jim
BTW, take a look at this replacement T-handle spring pull pin link and see if it'll work for yours. I'm pretty sure it's what I have. Goodluck!
Pop Pin, "T" Handle | Fitness and Exercise Equipment Repair Parts
Pop Pin, "T" Handle. Order a spare or replacement. #1 in parts and service for fitness and exercise equipment.
www.fitnessrepairparts.com
BritKLR
Kapitis Indagatoris
Another prep Sunday for the upcoming Moab training and ATC gear test. Got all the camping gear in the Thule, the Recovery gear in the Pelican and a awning tent configured. And, here's a sneak peek of a new ATC Pro Recovery Gear Bag (hate having all your Recovery gear jammed in a cluttered bag and wish you had something that keeps it organized like a SAR's Pro?) yeah, I made that and after some testing it will be released at OE West and our website!
BritKLR
Kapitis Indagatoris
Since posting this about the “Pro Recovery Bag” have you noticed any drones hovering around the shop trying to get pictures of the bag.
I figure some copycat is on a mission to scoop your release, maybe for EJS.
LOL!
You don't know how right you are! As for drones in the mountains....I have some old time mountain rural neighbors that tend to hunt, shoot down, field dress, batter and fry up flying objects that hover over our mountain, so not to worried about them.
But, there will be some LARGE companies at upcoming events that I know for a fact are just waiting to see the new ATC designs so they can knock em off.....
Cheers!
BritKLR
Kapitis Indagatoris
So, for years I've used Pelican Cases as my storage system but, now I've transitioned over to Zarges Cases. To start, I'll be using them as dryfood storage and camp kitchen and since they'll be carried inside the RR I figured I'd sew out a couple of ATC Case Liners to help reduce rattle/noise.
Pretty straight forward, 1000 D Black Cordura with 1" webbing grab handles on the outside and 1000 D Orange Cordura on the inside to help with reflective light inside the case. They're "fitted" to the inside of the case so they shouldn't collapse and the handles will make it easy to remove the liner once home and unpacking the dry goods.
Pretty straight forward, 1000 D Black Cordura with 1" webbing grab handles on the outside and 1000 D Orange Cordura on the inside to help with reflective light inside the case. They're "fitted" to the inside of the case so they shouldn't collapse and the handles will make it easy to remove the liner once home and unpacking the dry goods.
