Advise on removing a high top?

Speedwagon

New member
I bought a high top out of a junkyard the other week. $100! Great condition, it was on a Double Tree shuttle van. Plus, I got the roof HVAC system with it, so I'll have rear heat and A/C! But, the damn thing isn't sitting on a gasket, they glued/caulked the entire thing down. I removed all the screws and bolts. But I'm having a hard time figuring out how to get anything all the way through the adhesive. I bought a windshield removal wire to cut it, but I can't get it through just yet. It currently sits on the metal roof, which I sawzall'd off the van.

hightop.jpg
 

nitro_rat

Lunchbox Lockers
Heat gun on sealant, pray it isn’t 3M 5200

I bet it's 5200. I have heard that 3m makes a solvent that will remove it but I've never personally used it. Maybe check with a boat dealer or fiberglass/marine supply place.

I had a friend cut the top off a van like this once. He dropped it off with me wanting me to tackle it. Man it was expensive getting rid of that thing at the dump...
 

Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
You might need something with an abrasive in it to physically cut the sealant, depending on how thick the bead is. I had to use a torch and a putty knife to separate the reinforcing ring from my GTRV transplant, but that was metal-to-metal (and it did scorch the paint on the donor van, which was bound for the recycler in my case). It is entirely possible that the adhesive is more resilient than the fiberglass top, I'm sorry to say.
 

nitro_rat

Lunchbox Lockers
The stuff to remove 5200 is called "DeBond." You will probably find any other attempt to remove the sealant destructive to the fiberglass top...
 

simple

Adventurer
Fein windshield removing tool may work to cut
I was thinking along these lines as well. You can get one cheap at harbor feight. Some type of flexible putty knife attachment or grind the teeth off and round the corners of the blade that comes with it.
 

eporter

Adventurer
If you can’t break the bond, how bad would it look to cut & grind the remaining sheet metal back to the fiberglass and then just keep it in there as a sort of an added reinforcing layer? Then just add more 5200 and make the joint/seam flush? Obviously more work, but that’s usually the trade off for saving $$.

I’m curious as I may have to help a friend with a similar project...
 

Corneilius

Adventurer
in theory you won't find a closer fit for a van roof....than another van roof. Cut it back to a single layer sheet metal and use more 5200 lol
 

Choff

Adventurer
Piano wire with wood dowels at ends , I have used this method to remove some tough windshield glues on glass removal
 
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Speedwagon

New member
Piano wire with wood dowels at ends , I have used this method to remove some tough windshield glues on glass removal

This is essentially what I have. It's specifically for a windshield, but it's just a length of wire. The issue is getting the initial bit through.
 

nitro_rat

Lunchbox Lockers
Fiberglass is easy to fix, start cutting from the steel side. If you go a little too far, patch it up!

But seriously, the DeBond will save your @$$ on this one...
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Heat and a windshield pull cutter (fine wire with handles). There is a hollow needle used to feed the wire though the sealant.
 

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