My vote is for electric, however I need to clarify that I don’t use my trucks for much if any off roading. My old 1998 Chevy had a G80 locker from the factory, after the second one exploded and required a full rebuild I upgraded to an Eaton E-Locker. I selected a locker over a limited slip because in the winter time I would rather have an open differential to help with stability. Additionally my Chevy is 2wd so I have no choice but to put all the power through the rear wheels, all the time. Thus I did not want a limited slip causing me to loose traction on both rear wheels at the same time. The locker on the Chevy is used most when I am stuck, or nearly stuck due to snowy and icy roads. After 5 years with the locker it has been the single best upgrade I have made to the truck and I will likely install a rear locker in every truck I own in the future. However I should point out that when locked up the truck can be nearly uncontrollable on snowy roads, and completely uncontrollable on icy roads. It is no substitute for 4x4/4wd or good winter tires but at the time it was a boat load cheaper than selling the truck and buying a 4x4.
The Eaton is very quick and easy to engage but it is important to understand how it works so that you do not trash it before it locks. Once you press the button the driveshaft/pinion needs to rotate forwards or backwards to allow the ball ramp system to work. Additionally the wheels may require up to 1/6th of a rotation of differential action before the locking pins engage the spider gears. As a result you should not simply press the button and hammer on the gas. If you have already lost traction all you need to do is press the button and slowly ease into the throttle. If both wheels are in a low traction condition you will feel no perception of lock up. If one wheel is on good traction and the other is not, you will hear and feel the lock up. Once you feel the lock up you can use the throttle in any manner you see fit. If both wheels are on good traction a slight wave/turn may be required to obtain the 1/6th of a rotation of deferential before the locking pins will engage. The diff will not unlock until there is no torque on the spider gears, so if you hit the unlock button in the middle of a turn it will not unlock until you drive in a straight line with low or no throttle input.
The one concern I have with the Eaton E-Locker is that theoretically it unlocks and relocks when you change between forwards and reverse. As a result I do not do any sudden direction changes while attempting to get unstuck. However after 5 years of use it works as good as the day I installed it.
My new truck is a 2013 F150 FX4 with a factory electronic locker. I have no idea how it works but as there is no solenoid/motor on the housing I am assuming that it is an Eaton E-Locker. It is just as uncontrollable when locked in the winter as my Chevy, so I don’t advise driving on the road with a locker of any form if snowy/icy roads are a part of your winter.
I do believe that the ARB is a better design as far as strength and durability is concerned. However the Eaton wins hands down for ease of installation as it does not require an air compressor. Additionally to install the ARB in a 9.5” semi floating GM 14 bolt rear end, you need to cut a notch in one of the bearing caps to clear the air line. I am personally not a fan of this, to the point that it was the single biggest reason why I chose the Eaton over the ARB. Additionally as the winters in my part of the Great White North are long and cold I did not want to deal with the possibility of water/ice forming in an air system when it is -40C or colder.