All Things 3.4 Swap

[TheCascadeKid]

Title says it all. This will serve as a place to ask questions if you are interested in or stuck on completing a 3.4 swap. A lot of folks have done the leg work to document the process. Rather than reinvent the wheel I'll start off by linking to the threads I found most useful.

Start here: 3.4 Swap 101

ORS also has a decent overview: 3.4L Conversion

Monch is a wiring king: 3.4 Swap Wiring Theory

Get Your Wiring Diagrams Here: Toyota TIS

If TIS doesn't have your vehicle you will need to order the EWD from Toyota. I had to do this for my 89' 4Runner.

Want to stay cool? AC Wiring

Crossover: Build Your Own Crossover Unfortunately many of the original Photobucket images are missing

Don't have a welder? Buy your friend a 6 pack or get one here: Toy Only Swaps

Do this is you want your tac to work.

Be sure to swap your oil presure sender from your 3.0 to the 3.4. Neglecting to do so will likely fry your gauge.

On a manual swap use clutch components to match your engine, and throw out bearing to match your transmission. Example: With a 3.4 fly wheel I ordered a 3.4 clutch kit. I kept my 3.0 5spd so I ordered a new 3vz throw out bearing rather than using the one that came with my clutch kit.

That's it. Now start your 3.4 swap already to make all your friends jealous of those extra 50 ponies under the hood! If you already completed a 3.4 swap let's see some pictures!

IMG_2337

 

[r27d]

Where are good places to look for good donor motors?

 

[Crenshaw]

Where are good places to look for good donor motors?

Any Tacoma or 4runner '96-'02. Also '96+ T100s and you would have the correct oilpan.

Personally I would avoid '01-'02 since they went to throttle by wire which creates some more issues to deal with when swapping to an early truck.

The way to go is to buy a complete junk vehicle and part out everything you don't use. I think I was into my swap for something like $200 after selling off all the extra ****.

I'll get some pictures up of my setup once I can reclaim all my photos from photobucket.

 

[TheCascadeKid]

I second Crenshaw. It's a big time saver to have a full donor. You end up needing to scavenge a lot of little pieces from the 3.4. Things like the plug connectors for the AC, Starter, o2 sensors, 4WD indicator switch as well as accessory components like the evap canister, ignition igniter, radiator etc. Not all are mandatory, but it leaves all your options open when it's available. It would have been a real pain to track these down each time you got to that part of the swap. Some of this depends on if you stick with your original or donor part, but inevitable you will be running to the junkyard or stalled out on your swap trying to chase down parts.

I just watched CL till I found one that had been flopped at low speed, drove it home, and started pulling it apart.

 

[TheCascadeKid]

Also worth noting in your hunt for a donor. I believe it needs to by 97' or newer to be compatible with the TRD supercharger. Worth keeping in mind if you want to keep that door open for the future.

 

[zidaro]

Going to be hitting my swap hard this Winter/spring! i hope

 

[Crenshaw]

I just posted this over in the Burro thread- I figured I'd cut and paste to here just for the sake of accumulating information.

My wiring situation was quite straightforward, as long as you have all the proper diagrams it's not a terrible task. I did a real basic initial wiring job using wire nuts so I could switch things around as necessary and then soldered and shrink wrapped everything once I knew it was good to go.

The swap (providing you're going from 3.0 to 3.4 at least) is literally plug and play other than the wiring adapter and exhaust crossover. There is another truck here in town that actually is using a stock crossover and a real weird exhaust routing- it's kind of strange but apparently works alright. I was always under the impression that the modified crossover was an absolute requirement.

 

[Crenshaw]

PS I'm still running an auto ECU with my 5 speed truck. Runs great. It throws codes looking for the trans solenoids and such but removing my CEL fixed that promptly. Obviously I live in a place not requiring emissions testing. I haven't had any other codes other than a bad TPS at one point- I just check them periodically to see if anything is showing up. Running stock airbox and evap setup. I was initially on the hunt for a proper ECU but at this point I don't see any reason to rectify it.

I assume it would pass emissions if I were to find a manual ECU and install a cat.

 

[onemanarmy]

Any Tacoma or 4runner '96-'02. Also '96+ T100s and you would have the correct oilpan.

Personally I would avoid '01-'02 since they went to throttle by wire which creates some more issues to deal with when swapping to an early truck.

The way to go is to buy a complete junk vehicle and part out everything you don't use. I think I was into my swap for something like $200 after selling off all the extra ****.

I'll get some pictures up of my setup once I can reclaim all my photos from photobucket.

Up to 2004 Tacoma for the 3.4

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

 

[Crenshaw]

Here are some pictures of mine I finally liberated from the photobucket black hole.

I actually really like the 3vze, but this particular one had developed a pretty terrible bottom end knock from years of neglect and poor air filters.

Flintstone rig

And Voila! I have a bunch of pictures of my crossover and wiring progress but I can't find them.

************** custom hood bulge.

I opted for stock airbox for simplicity and functional, easily replaceable filters.

 

[Crenshaw]

Info I just posted in Nikkshepherd's thread- I figure it would be useful here.

A good fairly low mile motor could be anywhere from like $800-$1500 I would think. Like Nikksheperd said, the ticket is to buy a whole truck and part out what you don't use. It's really helpful to have absolutely all the accessories, sensors, evap, and other electrical garbage even if you don't end up using it.

3.4 bolts right up to trans and right to the frame if you have a v6 truck already.

Things you need that aren't immediately on the 3.4

3.0 oilpan and dipstick tube
3.0 motor mounts
Custom exhaust crossover or really creative exhaust routing
Wiring adaptor or do the wiring yourself.

There's obviously a little more to it but those are the big gotchas that you've got to figure out.

 

[TheCascadeKid]

Crenshaw's photos reminded me of a few notes on the radiator that I had to dig up some info on when wrapping up my swap.

I used my stock 3.0 radiator. Only mod you have to make is to cut the upper inlet tube and weld it back in place to be straight (front to back) rather than angled. You can then use the following Napa radiator hoses;

Upper: 7559 - you will need to trim this hose but then it fits nicely
Lower: 7571

I used the fan off my 3.4 donor because the 3.0 fan with the outer rim connecting the blades are known for shattering. The downside to this is the shroud no longer fits. There are a mix of opinions as to the necessity of this, but I think in general it is good to have for cooling at stop lights or slower trail speeds. I believe the gen 2 4Runner and 89-94 trucks have a fan without the rim and a shroud that fits with the 3.4. Some others have taken the opportunity to swap over to electric fans, but I was keen on keeping the system relatively stock.

This is a good time to make sure your fan clutch is not worn out. Prior to a cold start spin the fan with your hand. There should be resistance and promptly come to a stop if you try to spin it like the wheel of fortune. If the fan spins, the clutch is warn out. It should also produce a good "roar" upon a cold start.

 

[Crenshaw]

I'm trying to remember what I did in regard to the radiator....I'm fairly sure I used my old 3.0 radiator and didn't modify anything- I think I just mocked up the shape of the hoses and had my buddies at Napa find some that worked.

I also switched to the 3.4 fan for reasons you described and modified the shroud slightly to fit properly.

 

[battleaxe]

I think all the 22E variants have fans without the connecting blades, and their shrouds fit on a 3.0 radiator. (Ran a 3.0 on my 22RE for a couple years)

 

[TheCascadeKid]

Added notes and links regarding the tac mod, oil pressure sender, and clutch components to the original post. The oil pressure item is particularly important because using the wrong one can damage your gauge.

If you think of other items that should be up front in the thread just give me a shout and I can add them to the highlights in the first post.