Allwine JK Build Thread

[kenallwine]

I suppose I will chronicle the progression of our family's JK.

We purchased the 2007 JK just after thanksgiving as a replacement for my last jeep; a 2000 XJ. Now that I have it, I'm wondering why I didn't buy one sooner!:victory:

It is a 2007 JK Sahara in Rock Red color with a tan hard top. It is currently wearing General Grabber AT2 rubber on stock 18" wheels.

Goal:
I would like to build a simple yet comprehensive vehicle that can support me, my wife and 4 1/2 yr old daughter for between a weekend and a week.

Modifications so far:
Daystar Hood Wranglers
IPF E-code headlights with Silverstar Ultra H4 bulbs
Rugged Ridge XHD front bumper (modified to hold Hella Micro DE driving lights)
Grab Handles
GOBI Ranger roof rack
Cooltech Antenna kit
Cooltech tailgate strut
4 Hella 500FF for roof rack
Door sill protectors
cobra 75 WXST
M-PAC Console straddle bracket
Edgestar 43Qt fridge
Custom fridge slider
Custom cage for fridge
Custom drawer for tools
Steering stabilizer relocation kit
ARB onboard air kit / engine mount bracket
12V outlet in back seat
Asus eePc Netbook for Navigation software - Currently running Google Earth and MS Streets and Trips. Would love to get a HEMA.
3.5" Premium AEV Nth degree lift
315/65-17 Duratracs
17" Pro Comp 8179 Wheels
Poison Spider "Tramp Stamp"
Poison Spider RockBrawler rear bumper with tire carrier

Parts waiting for installation:
Poly Performance heavy duty ball joints

Wish List:
Warn or SuperWinch winch
Poison Spider Rocker Knockers
Poison Spider Aluminum body armor
Poison Spider EVAP skid
Rear pumpkin skid
ARB or equivalent diff covers
LED rock lights
ARB recovery kit
Water Filtration
Shower kit
Eaton Electric Front and Rear Lockers
Bigger front brakes

Ideas to add:
Seat covers w/pockets


Here is a picture of how it currently looks (Feb 2011):

Would love to hear input on anything I have (or don't have) listed.:coffeedrink:

 

[mwigant]

For the 3 year old: neoprene seat covers, husky floor liners, rear 12v plug for dvd player, grab handles and a stool on a string so she can climb in herself, and front splash guards so she won't get dirty doing it. I know the splash guards don't look good but they remove easily when snow season ends. For the wife: cooltech tailgate strut, One little thing I appreciate is window tint over the high beam indicator. And one more thing, I got the seat covers with the pockets on the back, turned out to be the perfect place to keep the do-rags my girls wear when the top is down to keep their hair from becoming tangled messes.

Mike

 

[mmccurdy]

Looks like a very nice list, and cool to see a build thread on here for it :victory:

Couple things off the top of my head:

Whytner fridge -- looks like the "Edgestar" special that caught on a while back, but never really heard of it. Are the guts solid enough to justify saving a few hundred bucks vs. a tried-and-true name? Same question applies to the Mile Marker winch. Not judging one way or the other, just making sure you've thought it through.

I would skip the body lift -- way more trouble than it's worth -- and I would steer clear of Full Traction though I know you'll hear otherwise elsewhere. I started off with a FT lift a while back. PM me for details if you want.

Otherwise, pretty much everything else on your "wish list" I either own and run myself or have a close wheeling buddy who does the same, and I can vouch for 100%.

Subscribed :ylsmoke:

 

[kenallwine]

I've done alot of reading about the Edgestar/Whytner fridge on here. Based on what I've ready, it sounds like a decent option for the size. Of course, if I go this route, I'll write a full review on it.

As far as the lift goes, I only want to go a total of 3.5". But want to stay under $1000.00 said and done. I would love the AEV lift but I just can't afford it will everything else I need to do so I need a cost effective solution.

Mwigant; good call on the 12V outlet in the back seat. That will probably be a high priority before the summer rolls around! What seat covers did you get? The ones from Rugged Ridge?

Thanks for the comments guys!

 

[njjeepthing]

I'd also second looking at different lifts other than the FT. Check out the Tera 2.5 coil lift or the OME HD kit. Either kits will clear 35's without a Bodylift. I've had both lifts on two different JK's, one two door and one four door, both lifts were great. Definitely go for adjustable track bars and budget for adjustable front lower control arms to correct axle geometry, once you get it dialed in you'll love it.

With 35's you'll need something to correct your speedo, a recalibration computer, so include that in your list as well.

I'd also recommend checking out the new Goodyear duratracs. I am running them, so far I am happy with them on pavement, snow, sand, just need to test them on some rocks.

 

[mmccurdy]

As far as the lift goes, I only want to go a total of 3.5". But want to stay under $1000.00 said and done. I would love the AEV lift but I just can't afford it will everything else I need to do so I need a cost effective solution.

There is really no good way to get a true 3.5" of suspension lift for less than $1000, since above 3" you will almost certainly need control arms at the very least, and you're starting to get into new driveshaft territory. I'm guessing this is what led you down the body lift path, but as I said above, I would really try to avoid it if at all possible. You only need 3" to clear 35's, and a body lift is only going to help with tire clearance, so I would say start with a solid (if a little shorter) suspension lift that you can upgrade piecemeal if you still think you need it.

Incidentally, I don't see a 2.5" Full Traction kit (only 2" and 3") so I'm not 100% sure what you're looking at as a baseline.

For my money, TeraFlex makes a very complete looking 3" kit that includes springs and shocks but no control arms. If your $1000 price cap is firm, and you don't want the hassle of piecing it together, I'd go that route.

Personally, I'm a huge fan of Old Man Emu springs and shocks, however you're looking at close to $700 for just those bits. You would still need to add bump stop extensions, front end links (you can move your OEM fronts to serve in the rear), trackbar brackets, and either extended brake lines or brackets to drop the rear hardlines. I haven't priced these bits out separately, but I'm guessing it would put you over $1k by a bit. However, you'd also wind up with better stuff in my opinion.

FWIW, I'm running the so-called 2.5" Heavy Duty OME springs, and I got close to 3" of lift out of them. They clear my 35's just fine, the ride is great, and I have none of the headaches associated with taller lifts (body roll, death wobble, bump steer, etc.) I need new tires soon, so I thought long and hard about going a little taller and potentially running 37's, but for me it's not worth the significant added headache and decreased reliability.

Okay that was a monster post, sorry about that... good luck w/ the decision and hopefully this is useful info.

 

[kenallwine]

Good post! That is great information.

I'll pose another question here. I would like to keep the factory 18" wheels. Looking at the Duratracs, the smallest 18" tire they have is a 275/65/R18. Can anyone tell me how that translates over to an Inch tire size. I don't want to go real wide as I don't want the tires to stick out (PA law) and I don't like the look of the bigger flairs.

What are the drawbacks of running the stock wheels size? (yes, I am pretty new to the realm of off-pavement excitement). I have always been an on-road performance enthusiast.

 

[tacomadave]

Good post! That is great information.

I'll pose another question here. I would like to keep the factory 18" wheels. Looking at the Duratracs, the smallest 18" tire they have is a 275/65/R18. Can anyone tell me how that translates over to an Inch tire size. I don't want to go real wide as I don't want the tires to stick out (PA law) and I don't like the look of the bigger flairs.

What are the drawbacks of running the stock wheels size? (yes, I am pretty new to the realm of off-pavement excitement). I have always been an on-road performance enthusiast.

These are the 18" tire sizes for Goodyear Duratracs


LT275/65R18 11.0" 32.1"

LT275/70R18 11.0" 33.2"

LT295/65R18 11.8" 33.1"

LT325/65R18 13.0" 34.6"


The drawback of running the 18" rims? Sidewall height will be lower with the larger rim, means easier pinch flats etc offroad. But that all really depends on what your doing offroad. Also larger rim sizes = more expensize tires.

 

[Hilldweller]

Looks like we have similar tastes. I have an '08 red rock crystal Sahara with tan top, Cobra/CoolTech combo, Cooltech tailgate strut, RR front bumper, window deflectors.
I had 265/70-18 Generals but sold them along with the 18" wheels about halfway through their tread life; I found them to be the second worst tires I ever ran ---- second only to the stockers...

Take a look at Zone Offroad's 3" spring lift; it's made by BDS and it will clear your 35's. If you get any rub after that, just put on Bushwacker flat flares.
But you'll need less backspacing for your wheels.
I went with 16" ProComp wheels; the amount of money that you save on the 35" rubber pays for the wheels.
I also have 4.56 gears to run my 33's; you'll need 4.88 for 35's if you have a standard and 5.13 if you have an auto.
Superchips makes a nice programmer for $300 to correct speedo/odo, get rid of throttle lag, and generally pep it up.

It's still a work in progress of course. And always will be...

Last year:

Now:

I also have an Edgestar in my trailer; it was under $275 delivered and is still working fine.

Ditch those Silverstar bulbs and get a Phillips or Osram; they run circles around them.
http://store.candlepower.com/h4hb29003bulbs.html

 

[kenallwine]

These are the 18" tire sizes for Goodyear Duratracs


LT275/65R18 11.0" 32.1"

LT275/70R18 11.0" 33.2"

LT295/65R18 11.8" 33.1"

LT325/65R18 13.0" 34.6"


The drawback of running the 18" rims? Sidewall height will be lower with the larger rim, means easier pinch flats etc offroad. But that all really depends on what your doing offroad. Also larger rim sizes = more expensize tires.

OK, here is a dumb question; how did you calculate that?

 

[kenallwine]

It's still a work in progress of course. And always will be...

I also have an Edgestar in my trailer; it was under $275 delivered and is still working fine.

Where did you get it for $275 delivered?!

 

[Hilldweller]

Where did you get it for $275 delivered?!

Compact Appliance ---- they were running a sale and I used the Windows Shop thing and got a check back for $27 + change.
Got it in 3 days from Texas with free shipping. Not sure how much they are now though.
This was the 43, btw.

 

[cascadeoffroad]

Here's how I was always taught to convert metric to standard tire size. Let's take a 275/65r18

275 mm = 10.83 inches -This is the width
65% of 10.83 = 7.04 inches - This is the side wall height
2x the side wall height + the wheel diameter = the total diameter
(2x7.04)+18=32.08

As the true size comes from the manufaturer, you should always check there numbers first, but this will always get you a very close approximation.

 

[Hilldweller]

A good tire size calculator:
http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp?action=submit&reset=yes

And tire manufacturers are very optimistic about their sizing.

I just checked the Compact Appliance website; looks like they no longer sell the 12 volt fridges with compressors.

 

[cascadeoffroad]

A good tire size calculator:
http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp?action=submit&reset=yes

<Sarcastically> Or you can use the fancy Internet and forget math all together </end sarcasm>