Alternator power to camper, none to camper battery . . .

[Bucky]

Hey, Gang,

I just replaced a group 24 flooded deep cycle with a group 31 AGM battery in the 2004 FWC Hawk (original owner). Running the truck's engine, I'm getting 14.71v off the alternator to the camper (checked at the terminals behind the little drop-down door at left-front). The gray cable's wires that go to the battery are solid at these terminals.

Checking at the gray cable terminal ends going to the battery, white positive and black negative wire, I'm getting nada.

I are confused.

Bucky

 

[battleborn]

interested in your results. I have a 05 titan that has alternator power to the 7 pin pos and neg when turned on, off when vehicle is not running. the 7 pin to the adapter has juice that corresponds to those pins on the truck. the dealer had to make an umbilical and did not connect the wires to charge the battery off the vehicle can't find any documentation from the centurion 3000 if it would be ok to run the power from the truck to the camper. seems kind of similar to your situation. maybe someone has the answer if they can answer you. good luck.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[battleborn]

interested in your results. I have a 05 titan that has alternator power to the 7 pin pos and neg when turned on, off when vehicle is not running. the 7 pin to the adapter has juice that corresponds to those pins on the truck. the dealer had to make an umbilical and did not connect the wires to charge the battery off the vehicle can't find any documentation from the centurion 3000 if it would be ok to run the power from the truck to the camper. seems kind of similar to your situation. maybe someone has the answer if they can answer you. maybe the cable is not wired to provide a charge?good luck.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Steve_P]

Most RVs use black positive, white negative. If you have a 120 to 12 volt converter I would look for the reverse current protection fuse in the converter.

 

[Bucky]

Hi guys,

I forgot to add in original post that this camper has been wired this way (white positive) since I first got it.

I know I'm getting power from the 7-way on the bumper because I checked it at the plug end that receives the camper's pigtail.

(In case you're wondering, I didn't want to drill into the box sidewall for vehicle power when I got the 2012 Sierra, so I cobbled together a cable to run from the 7-way to the camper pigtail. Same for turnbuckles: No eyebolt holes in the box floor this time; turnbuckles are cinched down to the OEM bed tiedown loops. Truck has thousands of miles with the camper rigged this way and zero load problems.)

Also, getting 14+ volts inside the camper per original post (from the 7-way cable).

Iota shore power converter is putting out about a 13.3v charge into the battery. Troubleshooting now. Will post back if I find the problem. (Hope it's not a short between the headset! Old radio operator joke.)

Bucky

 

[Bucky]

Okay, I think I figured it out.

A Sure Power Battery Separator (isolator) Model 1314 seems to be the problem.

Any recommendations for a replacement?

Thanks.

Bucky

 

[Steve_P]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Bucky]

Thanks, guys for your responses and thoughts.

I'm gonna call the Sure Power separator people tomorrow about the recall and to see if they'll send me a replacement.

These things aren't cheap. i think the Model 1314 is going for $82 on Amazon.

Bucky

UPDATE: Model years for Sure Power recall 2009, 2010, and 2011.
http://www.healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2011/11871r-eng.php

 

[Bucky]

If I want to stay with the Sure Power 1314, I found a screamin' deal at Home Depot (online) for $51 and change. Looking hard at the Blue Sea SI-ACR included in the Add-a-battery-kit (Blue Sea 7650) which also has a massive switch, $104.99 at West Marine.

In case it's not obvious, I'm a "ham 'n' egger" (amateur) when it comes to onboard electrical systems. As I posted before, the alternator power to the separator in the camper (14.78 v) is coming from the OEM 7-way harness plug at the rear of the truck. But, I've been reading a lot about the starting battery connection (on the separator) coming directly from the alternator. Is that what I need for these things to work? I mean, 14.78 volts is 14.78 volts no matter where it comes from, right?

I recall the 2003 GMC Sierra was fitted with a female plug in the bed's sidewall with the positive wire coming from the engine compartment, per the FWC delivery guy's install of the Hawk.

Your thoughts, please.

Bucky

 

[Bucky]

Okay, to wrap it up.

I replaced the 2004 Hawk's Sure Power 1314 battery separator with the Sure Power 1314A from Home Depot ($51 and change). Decided not to go with the Blue Sea Systems SI-ACR due to heavy gauge wiring (with high amp fuses) that would have to be run from the engine compartment and require drilling a hole in my pickup bed sidewall to accommodate the plug receptacle.

After all was said and done, FWC's service guys recommend staying with the Sure Power 1314A which works fine through the truck's OEM 7-way heavy duty trailer harness. Defaulted to the K.I.S.S. principle, I guess.

Bucky

 

[Bucky]

UPDATE: Well, after doing some more research I found a forum comment (elsewhere) that said the Blue Sea 7611 ACR was a "drop-in replacement" for the Sure Power 1314 in FWC pop-up campers. And another comment on Amazon that FWC are installing the 7611 on their new campers using 10AWG wire and 30A breakers. Plus, I really don't like the knock sound every time the Sure Power separator engages or disengages and the Blue Sea gizmos are more efficient charging the battery. Home Depot was good about the S.P. 1314 return.

Since the OEM GM heavy duty trailer harness's positive is 10AWG (connected to 30A fuse under the hood) and Blue Sea tech support signed off (with relatively low loads in the Hawk), I pulled the trigger on the Blue Sea 7610 ACR (7611 ACR only approved for batteries up to group 27; mine is AGM group 31). So far, so good. No blown fuses or tripped breakers. Photos of installation below 2004 Hawk's fridge attached.

BTW, West Marine has their battery switches, etc. on sale 25% off thru May 20. The Blue Sea Add-a-Battery-Kit includes the 7610 ACR and a yuge battery switch (maybe for use on my boat).

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue...tery-dual-circuit-system--8646275?recordNum=1