ALTERNATOR recurring failure (22RE). Any help appreciated.

BMarino

New member
Our truck is a 94 manual 4WD xtra cab 22RE.


We're facing recurring alternator failures. Have been searching and reading numerous related threads on this, but we are somewhat lost. This is the status:


  • Two failures in the last month, 3rd failure yesterday.
  • First 2 failures have been the voltage regulator.
  • First failure happened at a slow traffic jam at a highway, slow idle speed, stereo was on, low headlights on. Replaced the internal regulator (non OEM) and brushes (OEM Toyota). Replacement regulator failed 2 days later, after forgetting the ACC switch on for 20 minutes.
  • Replaced with a better non-OEM brand regulator, and a new battery. Worked without flaw during our + 1000 km trip from central to northeastern Mexico last week, carrying heavy load (+650 kg).
  • Yesterday, while driving around town we made frequent parking stops, keeping the truck on, idling for 10-15 minutes at a time before retaking our driving. Stereo off, headlights off (was daytime). Suddenly, the brake and battery dash indicator lights turned on. Battery charge indicator was at 3/4. Drove immediately to a safe parking spot before having to face a drained battery. Haven't turned the truck on again.


So I'm suspecting the regulator might have failed again. We do have a new replacement regulator, as we anticipated we might face a new failure, but I don't want to use it until I'm sure what the reason these regulators are failing is, as it might be something else than simply these replacement regulators being crappy as non-OEM parts. If it fails us again, we will be in a difficult problem as now we are in a rural town deep in the Sierra Madre Oriental mountains in Mexico, and up here the scarce spare parts stores only carry old Ford and GM parts, but practically no Nissan or Toyota.


Last time we replaced the regulator, we checked beforehand fuses and wiring. No accessible wiring we could observe in the engine bay was exposed or torn. We changed the 80 AMP alternator fuse (was ok, but we changed it anyway), wiring was ok. We also very recently changed all three belts, and right upper and lower coolant hoses. Regarding fuses (both underhood and in the driver's side panel), no blown fuses, but THIS we found in the fuse box:


508405

508406

508407


The melted fuse is NOT BLOWN, still works (checked with a current tester). It is the EFI fuse.


TWO OTHER SUSPICIOUS SYMPTOMS which make us think there might be a short somewhere which might be causing the recurring failures:


- High headlights work ONLY when pulling the left lever (temporary mode), but shut off when pushing the lever (permanent mode).

- YESTERDAY, at a certain point during a 2 hour drive offroad (way before the idling parking during the town drive), we noticed white smoke seeming to come out from the alternator. Now, I must indicate that this alternator, when we bought the truck roughly one year ago, was abundantly drenched on some kind of oil (motor oil I think) from a leak somewhere which currently has disappeared. Don't know if this might be the problem, but I must point out that even in this condition, the alternator worked for almost a year without issue.


Finally: we have no starting issues. Sometimes it takes a bit longer and I must press the gas pedal to get it going, but that happens rarely.



Thanks for reading this far and WE'LL APPRECIATE ANY HELP OR FEEDBACK GIVEN as to where to look from here on to solve this issue!
 

4runnerteq

Explorer
I would start with an original equipment TOYOTA alternator and stop trying to replace pieces. Also, I would replace the battery with the correct one. As for the high beams, my first thought would be the switch.
 

nely

Adventurer
You haven’t actually replaced the alternator? Just the regulator 3 times and brushes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

BMarino

New member
I haven't replaced the alternator, as the OEM one takes very long to be available at mexican dealers, and as I don't foresee any reliable solution using a remanufactured one, as they represent the same story (repeatitive failures) from what I've read in forums.

Our alternator has been tested by electricians and each time they have attested verything is ok except for the regulator. That's why I haven't seen the point in changing the whole alternator.
 

Smileyshaun

Observer
Anytime you ever have any sort of electrical issue ALWAYS start with your battery cables. Cut back the sheathing and make sure they are not corroded from the inside ..... actually just replace both of them with larger gauge wires and coat all connections with dielectric grease. make sure all your ground straps are connected and in good shape . You should have one from the block to the frame, block to body , and it doesn't hurt to add a couple more. I had nearly the same issue on a old 1980 Toyota pickup I had went through a couple alternators and regulators and then found out my ground strap From the Block to the body was broken, fixed it and it charged better then it ever had before.
 

Smileyshaun

Observer
Also check underneath the dash you should have a ground strap that goes from your wiring harness down to around where the steering wheel bolts to the body
 

Dopesick

Does a bear..........
It's time to check ALL of the "big" wires.

Power: Battery to fuse block, Battery to Starter, Battery to Alternator.
Negative: Negative to Body, Negative to Frame, Negative to Engine. There will likely be a few others (engine to chassis, chassis to body), replace those too.

It is perfectly acceptable to go UP in wire size on these as well. Currently my 2001 4Runner, has 4 gauge wire replacing the "Big 3", and grounds.

As was already stated as well. Get the proper battery for your truck as well.
 

BMarino

New member
Thanks for your useful replies. I'm sorry for my late response, but I just got hold of a wifi signal.


So I started by checking my battery cables.


I started with the (+) cables. THIS I found after cutting the sheathing on the one that goes to the fuse box:


508629

508630


As you can see, there is some kind of gummy fill beneath the sheath, covering entirely the wire. IS THIS SOME KIND OF FUSIBLE WIRE? CAN I SAFELY REPLACE IT WITH NON-FUSIBLE WIRE?






As for the other + cable, I renewed the crimp connection, but there is some kind of fusible integrated into the cable:


508631



I sincerely have NO idea if this fusible (in case I'm not confusing it with something else) is supposed to be there. DOES SOMEONE KNOW if I can discard it when replacing the cable?




As for finding other possible issues in the wiring system:


- There are two connectors in the engine bay I have absolutely no idea what purpose serve. They sit at the uppermost left side (passenger side):


508632







Finally, there is a cable hanging loose near the starter. It sticks out from the "package" that goes towards and over the transmission body. Again, does anyone know what purpose this cable has / if it should be connected to something somewhere?




508633




I appreciate very much your help. As I said, we're in a remote location in the sierras in Mexico, and the few automotive electricians down here have experience with Ford and GM trucks, but not at all with Toyotas, so I would like to at least accumulate as much knowledge on the electrical / wiring system and potential issues beforehand if I must irrevocably take my truck to one of them.


THANKS AGAIN!
 
Last edited:

toastyjosh

Adventurer
There are two connectors in the engine bay I have absolutely no idea what purpose serve. They sit at the uppermost left side (passenger side):
Are they connected to anything?
The cable that has the link on it, what is that connected to??

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/22re-ground-wire-locations-guide-194413/

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCNewsletter/2016/APRIL/starter_relay_Tech.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/1986-22re-battery-wiring-harness-help-269197/
 
Last edited:

BMarino

New member
It's time to check ALL of the "big" wires.

Power: Battery to fuse block, Battery to Starter, Battery to Alternator.
Negative: Negative to Body, Negative to Frame, Negative to Engine. There will likely be a few others (engine to chassis, chassis to body), replace those too.

It is perfectly acceptable to go UP in wire size on these as well. Currently my 2001 4Runner, has 4 gauge wire replacing the "Big 3", and grounds.

As was already stated as well. Get the proper battery for your truck as well.



Dopesick, must one of the (+) battery cables (the one from battery to fuse block) be a fusible cable or can it be replaced with a normal cable? I know the 80 AMP fuse in the fuse block is connected to a white fusible cable, but I'm not sure if it's the same cable mentioned here.

Battery I just replaced it recently with a 700 Amp capacity one.
 

toastyjosh

Adventurer
read this whole thread, it explains all of it.

 
Last edited:

BMarino

New member
Thanks for your useful responses.

I just ordered an OEM Toyota remanufactered alternator from a dealership at the closest city from our location (4-hour drive; fortunately they will have it available in a couple days). Last time we drove the truck, smoke definitely was billowing from the alternator, accompanied by a distinct burning smell. Local electrician checked the alternator and says the stator is smoked. Charging is currently fluctuating between 1/2 and 3/4 capacity.

I'm pretty sure the alternator isn't the main issue, but rather a symptom or a consequence of some short occurring somewhere. However, it is plain clear that our current alternator isn't the OEM one, and it is pretty beaten up, and with at least 3 regulator replacements done by us. So in spite what I stated earlier, I'm now convinced this is a good time to replace it with an OEM one.

I also ordered the "Wire, Fusible link repair" (part # 82991-35020) to replace that gummed up cable along with the alternator. I suspect there is probably a problem within that cable, linked to the melted fuse slot. We'll replace both alternator and fusible link and report results.


As for the grounds, all seem in good shape, except for the one up above and near the alternator, the one that bolts behind the power steering pump, as it is quite drenched in oily gunk. It's quite a PITA to clean it up without removing the entire power steering pump, which I'm trying to avoid.



Are they connected to anything?
The cable that has the link on it, what is that connected to??


They aren't connected to anything, and nothing is observable close to the reach they have as to be a connection for them. As for the cable with the male spade connector, I haven't figured out yet where it should be connected to.
 

vintageracer

To Infinity and Beyond!
Replace the battery wires and cable ends going to that battery clamp.

No way are you going to put any kind of amperage/current through those cheap Home Depot type crimp on yellow wire end connectors.
 

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