Alvord Desert - We Return to Explore (Apr 2019)

turbodb

Well-known member
It'd been several weeks since my last trip and as usual that meant I had a bad case of the shakes. Spring is such a frustrating time from an adventure perspective - the weather seems so nice, and yet everywhere interesting is still covered in snow. And, the winter staple - the desert - is getting hot.

You can imagine my delight when a check of the weather showed that the Alvord Desert - a place we'd visited for the first time last October - was going to have weather in the mid-70's. From my perspective, we hadn't spent nearly enough time there exploring the roads; from @mrs.turbodb's point of view: we'd skipped all of the hot springs!

The horror, I know.

We got a late start due to life getting in the way and arrived at the Alvord Playa in southeast Oregon just after 10:00pm. We found the perfect (random) spot two miles from the edge and with no need to level the truck, we quickly got setup - ready for some of the great sleep afforded by our Exped Megamat Duo and for what the next day would bring.

From the get-go, it didn't disappoint. Not by a long shot.




I poked around outside the truck for a few minutes, but it wasn't long before I climbed back in - the warmth and snuggles too alluring to keep me on the playa for an extended period. Plus - a secret that only early-risers know - there are two sunrises on the best mornings. There's that orange glow on the horizon that signals the continued existence of the sun, and then an hour later, the actual sunrise!

And there, now I've let the secret out of the bag.

While only I got to enjoy the first sunrise of the morning, we both soaked in the second - initially from the comfort of the tent, but shortly after, we were up and about, getting ready for what we thought would be a reasonably relaxed day.


As the sun rose to the east, "we" got breakfast ready to go, where "we" included me eating the Honey Bunches of Oats with Almonds topped with fresh strawberries. :hungry: To our west, Steens Mountain - still covered in snow - rose a mile above us, a reminder that this wouldn't be our last trip to the area - the highest road in Oregon on our list of places to visit.


While breakfast was prepared, I escaped the title of complete slouch by putting away the tent and breaking down camp. And with our amazing divide-and-conquer teamwork, we were ready to roll out of camp by 8:42am. We had some learning to do when it came to the definition of "relaxed day."

Our first destination was due east another 3 miles on the far side of the Alvord Playa: Big Sand Gap.


I don't know if anyone actually remembers the last time we visited, but one of the most remarkable things about the Playa is the surreal experience you get when driving on it at high speed. It's so flat, and so vast, that objects in the distance appear stationary while the ground around the truck is flying by. The only reaction I've ever seen to this phenomenon is a big-old-smile, and that's what happened this time as well, as dust kicked up behind us, hanging in the still air - a Taco contrail.




To @mrs.turbodb's delight, we both took turns making dust before turning east again - Steens Mountain rising up behind us.


The Alvord Playa is among the largest playas in all of Oregon. Formed when rain water falls, fills shallow depressions in the landscape, and then evaporates, this flat basin is a called a graben - a basin down-dropped by faulting around it. In this case, it's approximately 8 miles east-west and 70 miles north-south - though the "drive-it-like-you-stole-it" lake bed is really more like 5-by-10 miles - and marks the easternmost border of Oregon's Basin and Range, which is slowly extending westward. This movement, due to active faulting in the Alvord Desert has uplifted and tilted the surrounding ranges - Steens Mountain, etc. - leaving any water that enters the Alvord Playa to escape only via evaporation.

Our goal for the morning was to head to the eastern edge - to Big Sand Gap - where 13,000-14,000 years ago the water burst through the lake's rim and sent some 40,000 cubic yards per second of water down the drainage of Crooked Creek and into the Owyhee River, dramatically lowering the lake level.


We found a spot to park next to some horse hitching posts near the edge of the Playa and headed off, another two miles of flat sandy ground to cover before we reached the gap. Of course, to us it looked like a half-mile or so - distances in this desert, like Death Valley, messing with our internal range finders.


As has been the case on several trips so far this year, we hit this one at just the right time to get a completely unnatural experience - green. It was spring in the desert and not only was there green grass in place of the normally golden grass on the surrounding hills, but there were wildflowers bursting out of every hole.

Some of them fragrant. In a good way, not like my feet.




We made quick work of the two miles as we followed wild horse trails to the gap, stopping now and then to empty the fine sand out of our shoes.




To our surprise, the first thing we noticed upon our arrival was a road. I'd done quite a bit of research prior to the trip on the various roads around the Playa, and there were several that we were planning on exploring over the course of the next couple days. But nowhere had I found this road.

We ignored my oversight like you might a second-favorite-child, and added it to our list for the next day as we headed up the southern cliff to get a view of where we'd been.


It was a great one, and we enjoyed it - albeit gingerly, the rocks top of the cliff literally teetering on the edge of what was quite clearly an active fault.

- - - - -

Don't miss the rest of the story, and all the remaining photos that don't fit here (due to max post size). Hopefully that can change in the future, but until then...




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turbodb

Well-known member
Alvord Desert 2 - We Don't Want to Pull Anyone Out
April 26, 2019.

I don't know what the deal is exactly, but it seems that last year was a year of trips with rain and snow, and this year - at least so far - it's all about the wind. It was so windy through the night that at some point I closed the door to the tent just to give us a bit of a reprieve from the insidious cold that kept pushing it's way under our comforters.

As the sun rose, so did the wind speeds - clouds zooming across the sky, Earth's natural kaleidoscope. I popped out for as long as I could muster - the wind whipping through the only long sleeves I'd brought on the trip, a light sweatshirt.

Always prepared, this one. :frusty:


In the end, we could only wait so long for the wind to die down - which it never did - before rousing ourselves out of bed to what was clearly going to be another beautiful day. We repeated our morning routine, splitting the breakfast and tent tasks, as the Playa seemingly blew away in front of us.

And that folks, is why there's so much sand at the Big Sand Gap that we'd visited the previous day.


As we wrapped up the last of our packing and I went to turn the temp on the fridge down - I normally turn it up at night to reduce battery usage when the truck isn't running - I noticed the display wasn't even on.

Uh oh.

Without a fridge, our food wouldn't last long - this could be the end of the trip if I couldn't get it figured out. Luckily, reasonably quickly, I found the leading candidate for what was causing the problem - the power cord had gotten stuck in the pull-out drawer slide and I could see where it'd been severely sliced.


Hoping nothing had been fried in the fridge itself, I checked the fuse on the cord - it was fine. Next, I checked for power at the distribution box in the bed - and there was nothing! Hopeful that it was just a fuse in the Bussman, I popped the hood and pulled a few fuses before finding one that was in fact fried.

Well, that was good news. Now the question was - did I have a spare?

It required a trip into the bowels of the OSK, but luckily I was able to pull out one 7.5A fuse and pop it into the circuit - disaster avoided, and a good reminder for me to stock a few more fuses in case something like this happens again. I temporarily patched up the cord as well and we were off the dusty Playa and on our way - the day's adventure off to an early start.


Still aired down from the day before, we made our way somewhat slowly south to the tiny town of Fields, OR. The only fuel for a hundred miles in any direction, we pulled in on fumes - the gas light in the truck having illuminated 27 miles earlier! Of course, we'd have been fine given the extra 10 gallons on the rear bumper, but it's always more convenient to just use the pump.


Fields Station is a well-known hangout in these parts, and even at 9:00am in the morning, it was was hopping - breakfast at the attached diner in full swing. As we fueled up at nearly $4/gallon, I even momentarily considered one of their famously delicious thick milkshakes - something @mrs.turbodb had referenced several times in the various books she'd brought on the area. Alas, it was early and we'd just eaten, so we passed as we got on our way - our next destination out a nearby powerline road: Borax Lake and it's hot springs.




As we neared the parking area, the sight of a couple vehicles was initially a bit disappointing - after all, we were in the middle of nowhere and were expecting to have the place to ourselves. As we got closer and eventually pulled along side, I think we ultimately felt a little better knowing that - at least - we were with family. ?


The day getting sunnier (but still windy) by the minute, we set out from the truck towards Borax Lake. Fed by geothermal (hot) springs, this lake is 10-acres of 100°F water - perfect for a dip until you discover that it's got extremely high concentrations of not only borax, but also arsenic and lead! Still, though it's not something that we'd want to swim in, the Borax Lake chub fish - found only here - calls the lake home, having adapted to the warmer temps and high concentrations of toxins.




The geothermal activity of the site has resulted in the lake being uphill from the surrounding area - the lake essentially sitting on top of a hill of borax that has been pumped out of the ground, the lake itself contained within short borax walls. Accumulating at somewhere near 150 tons/year, it looks like there's snow on the ground, likely what drew the Rose Valley Borax mining company to the area in 1892. For 10 years, Chinese laborers gathered borax from the ground, mixed it in long boiling vats with water to purify it, and then transported it via mule team wagons to Winnemucca, NV.




As cool as all that was though, it wasn't why we were really here. We were really here because there are also a series of hot springs - and @mrs.turbodb loves hot springs. Extending for nearly a mile north of the lake, these springs aren't ones that you can take a dip in - they have the same arsenic and lead concentrations as the lake, and are 170°F to boot - but they are cool to look at, the water bubbling up out of the ground, sides of some springs dropping sharply into pools large enough to boil the unfortunate human or pet that might fall in.



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Perhaps our favorite spring however was one that had an internal bridge - I assume, the minerals having accumulated over the years on some sort of existing rock structure.

We spend a good hour-and-a-half exploring the hot springs before deciding that it might be good to get a move on - the rest of our day uncertain from a mileage perspective. See, our plan - like the day before - was to explore some roads to the east of Alvord Playa. This time we'd be south instead of north, and we hoped to find a route to re-enter the Playa on the road we'd seen at Big Sand Gap.

So, we headed out...

- - - - -

Don't miss the rest of the story, and all the remaining photos that don't fit here (due to max post size). Hopefully that can change in the future, but until then...




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turbodb

Well-known member
Alvord Desert 3 - Gun-Shy, We Head to Hart Mountain
April 27, 2019.

The wind that had been relentless the day before died down over the next several hours, resulting in the most pleasant night of the trip. Oriented just so, there was no need to get up in the morning to enjoy the sunrise either - something I'm sure I'll forget by the next time we go out.


A full day ahead, we didn't linger long under the covers, both of us out of the tent by 6:30am - our long shadows playing across the playa, Steens Mountain towering to our west - so we could get breakfast eaten and the tent stowed by our planned departure time of 7:00am. After-all, we had 100 miles of dirt ahead of us...assuming we didn't get turned around somewhere along the route.




It was actually 7:15am by the time I finished taking photos and lollygagging on my tent-packing chores, and as we pulled off the Playa for the last time, we bid it farewell - the three nights we'd spent in the same place an anomaly for us, though one we'd enjoyed.

Our route today would take us first south to Fields - for more fuel - and then west to Hart Mountain National Antelope Wildlife Refuge, our last stop on this 5 day trip. But first, as we headed south, we couldn't resist the pull of a purple blanket that unfolded along the side of the road.


As it turned out, we had plenty of time - as we arrived in Fields for fuel, the crowd outside Fields Station was indicative of the 8:00am opening - five minutes after we pulled in. Guess I should have noticed that when we were there the day before. Sharp, ehh? ?

Luckily we didn't have long to wait before topping off the tank and having a quick chat with some of the locals. Curious if we'd even be able to make it over the first pass, we were relieved to find out that not only was Domingo Pass open, but it was apparently "mostly dry" and "even drier on the west side."

Well, at least we knew that the first 15% of our route was open. We headed out. :fingerscrossed:


As we'd heard, the road was in reasonably good condition as we wound our way up Domingo Pass. A bit of water on the road here, a bit of snow on the hillside there, we completed the 2500' climb quickly - stopping only a few times to take in the expansive views and amazingly green lichen growing on the rocks near the summit.








From the top, the view was vast! The book that @mrs.turbodb had been reading talked about the Desert Trail (like the Pacific Crest Trail - PCT) that passed through these parts, where you could see for 50 miles in every direction. And that was no joke.

Only problem was, the views were a bit...monotonous. Green (right now) rolling hills as far as the eye could see.






It was right around here that I realized how - umm - how to put this... how crazy this plan was. I mean, really crazy. This wasn't like yesterday where we were eight miles from a ranch and three miles from the Alvord Playa if something went wrong. We could easily be 50 miles from the nearest help - two full days of hiking in the hot sun. Much more remote than even the OBDR trip that we did solo a couple of years ago.

Man, I must be getting old if I'm thinking about these things.

Anyway, we'd had cell service for most of the trip, but lost it on the way up Domingo Pass and I was sure that it'd be spotty as we headed into the nowhere of Oregon™. Here at the top though, the LTE was strong and I quickly whipped up an email to Pops that explained the crazy thing we were doing, and how long we expected it to take. And, since we were on roads that may or may not actually have existed, I sent along a GPS track as well.

I just hoped he knew how to open it! :pc-coffee:

With that, we set off down the back side of the pass towards our next trail - Juniper Spring.


As was the case with most of the roads we'd been on this trip, it was clear that we were on a road that one would be generous to say was lightly traveled. My guess is that we were the first to drive it this year for sure, and that annual traffic could likely be counted on my fingers.

Elevation dropping as quickly as we'd climbed, we came to a rock outcropping that bore the remains of some long-forgotten rancher - a barb-wire rock one of the last remaining vestiges of human habitation. An anchor of some sort? Perhaps just a rancher with a weird sense of humor? A rock that tried to get away?


We soldiered on, making good time and leaving a trail of dust in our wake - the truck working fabulously at this point, taking us further and further into nowhere-ness. And then, water on the road.

But it wasn't bad - it was just a trickle really - a spring out here in the wilderness. And then I saw it - a singleton Juniper. I looked to my left and smiled. "We've reached Juniper Spring!" I announced smartly. And then, I wondered aloud, "What happens when the Juniper dies? Does it just become 'No Juniper spring'?" Dork.




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From there, we covered a lot of ground - the remainder of Juniper Spring road, Ackley Camp Road, and half of Buckaroo Pass - all the while our eyes glued to the mountains ahead, the snow along their peaks causing us to wonder: could we make it?

Things were going well - the sun was warm, the air was sweet with spring, and the roads varied from good to great for covering ground. And it was reasonably dry - that is, until we reached a cattle reservoir that apparently was seasonal. I say apparently because the road drove right through the middle of the reservoir, and we weren't talking a few inches - we were talking a few feet. There was no way that we could make it work - and looking at the map, there was no immediately obvious re-route.

I got out and scouted the situation. It appeared that we could skirt the reservoir along it's lower edge - by driving over the dam - if we could make it onto the dam itself. See, the part of the dam nearest us had washed out.
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Gun-shy from our experience the day before, I put on my Muck boots to see just how sketchy this was going to be.

To my surprise and relief, it was immediately obvious that...

Don't miss the rest of the story, and all the remaining photos that don't fit here (due to max post size). Hopefully that can change in the future, but until then...




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