Overland_Brandon
Observer
This thread is great entertain.
AMBOT you are a rockstar!
AMBOT you are a rockstar!
AMBOT
- Thread starter AMBOT
- Start date
Art4med
New member
AMBOT roxx! My amb module is the same.
AMBOT, your story is especially useful to me, since I have the identical module (Wheeled Coach) as a TypeIII: on a K3500 4x4 L65 TD!
One thing I'm curious about is: How has your insulation and A/C has worked out? Tho I'm only starting my build, *gotta get out of Georgia --before the deathly heat sets-in.
I'm going to add insulation to isolate the thermal breaks WC incurs: IOW, the aluminum square tubing transfers every external therm into the module, so MY insulation will go between ANY aluminum and the lining panels.
Great, uuuge rear carriers (!) What's their weight?
AMBOT, your story is especially useful to me, since I have the identical module (Wheeled Coach) as a TypeIII: on a K3500 4x4 L65 TD!
One thing I'm curious about is: How has your insulation and A/C has worked out? Tho I'm only starting my build, *gotta get out of Georgia --before the deathly heat sets-in.
I'm going to add insulation to isolate the thermal breaks WC incurs: IOW, the aluminum square tubing transfers every external therm into the module, so MY insulation will go between ANY aluminum and the lining panels.
Great, uuuge rear carriers (!) What's their weight?
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AMBOT
Adventurer
Mocking up a 3 season room out back for the shower and latrine.
It's 80" long and 46" deep.
Ambot got a hitch. I love this Ambot, the universal weld on hitch from Curt http://www.curtmfg.com/part/15901 Fit perfectly between the existing steel bars that bolts to the rear step. and just clears everything, no cutting whatsoever. Welded it up and came out great. I think I'll use to make some base platform for the 3 season room so that the rear doors can still open and possibly stand up height.
It's 80" long and 46" deep.
Ambot got a hitch. I love this Ambot, the universal weld on hitch from Curt http://www.curtmfg.com/part/15901 Fit perfectly between the existing steel bars that bolts to the rear step. and just clears everything, no cutting whatsoever. Welded it up and came out great. I think I'll use to make some base platform for the 3 season room so that the rear doors can still open and possibly stand up height.
patoz
Expedition Leader
Looking good and I'm glad to see you're still making progress on it!
I have a 1993 Wheeled Coach Type III, and I'm thinking about doing something like that for a shower & restroom on the rear also. However, I'm 6'1", so I want the floor to be down at the step bumper level. You would step down from the inside to use it, and there is no way any water could run into the module itself.
I found these pictures on this forum, and do not know who this vehicle belongs too, so I apologize to the owner if using them is a problem.
I need to install a hitch on the rear also, so with the above in mind will the hitch from Curt allow you reinstall the step bumper without a lot of modification, or is it now history?
And, I'm looking for a set of rear aluminum outside rims identical to the ones you have. Can you provide any info about them, especially who makes them and where they came from?
Thanks...
I have a 1993 Wheeled Coach Type III, and I'm thinking about doing something like that for a shower & restroom on the rear also. However, I'm 6'1", so I want the floor to be down at the step bumper level. You would step down from the inside to use it, and there is no way any water could run into the module itself.
I found these pictures on this forum, and do not know who this vehicle belongs too, so I apologize to the owner if using them is a problem.
I need to install a hitch on the rear also, so with the above in mind will the hitch from Curt allow you reinstall the step bumper without a lot of modification, or is it now history?
And, I'm looking for a set of rear aluminum outside rims identical to the ones you have. Can you provide any info about them, especially who makes them and where they came from?
Thanks...
AMBOT
Adventurer
There is still one whole wall with only factory bat insulation. I've removed the factory pass thru door as it leaked loads of air and replaced it with an insulated panel.
I haven't installed the mini-split AC either, as so far I haven't found the need for it, I may install it in the garage instead.
Its a work in progress and not fully buttoned up, but I was toasty camping in 25* nights with a Mr. Buddy radiant heater on low and the factory patient fan circulating air.
If I remember the rear carrier was about 200 lbs.
AMBOT
Adventurer
Thanks, and nice find! Jeez, just when you think you have a unique idea... I haven't seen this ambo before as far as I can tell. Nothing not to like about it!
The rear step is going to be close on whether the bottom of the aluminum I beam that makes up the back of the step needs to be notched. If it does, it will be very slight, just enough to slide the ball into the receiver. I installed the mounting plates different than the instructions provided, as it wanted the mounting plate welded to the side of the frame. This would have blocked the step from being easily reinstalled. The steel beams hanging from the frame were very stout I managed to get 3 welds on each each side, and 1 weld where it butts up to the bottom of the frame. Its a 15,000 lb hitch and 1,500lb tongue weight, something I'm not going to nearly approach so I feel good about it. In this mounting location I got a drop of about 4 additional inches which allows for the rear step to be used, otherwise the hitch would be coming out just around the middle of the step making it not usable. For reference, the bottom of the receiver is 20" off the ground, so I still have lots of clearance.
My trailer wiring harness is coming today and I went with a 8" drop hitch which will be here tomorrow and I'll let you know how it all goes together.
The wheels are 19.5 American Force http://americanforcewheels.com/index.php/en/wheels-collection/item/277
Happy Amboing!
/Ambot
patoz
Expedition Leader
Like I said, I found those pictures a couple of years ago and searched around to find out as much as I could about it. I believe it was built by the same guy that built MegAmbo, but I don't know for sure. Apparently, it went up for sale, but since no one puts dates on anything any more I don't know how old this ad is, or if it's still for sale.
Some info came from the Six13 Metalworks website and FB Page, but they have all since been shut down. There is a whole lot more to that story, but I only know bits and pieces, so I'll won't go there.
Here are a few more pictures I found back then...
Since my rig is now a camper trailer, I won't be towing anything with it, but I will be hauling things on the rear. Idealy, I would like to have a hitch that had three receivers, one in the center and one on each side at the frame location. The one in the center could be used for a tow point as well as holding a bike rack, etc. The ones on the sides could be used for holding a cargo rack to carry gear, fuel/water cans, or firewood, etc. They could also be used to support the floor of the add on 'restroom'. The ideal 'platform' would be one that would expand or fold out somehow, so it could serve as the center step @ 1' wide, the cargo rack @ 2' wide, or the restroom @4' wide, so only one piece would need to be carried.
I am also considering a Mini-split HVAC system because of how quiet and efficient it is. The one I'm looking at is the Pioneer Ductless Mini Split AC 9000btu. Amazon carries it also. The only reason I haven't bought it yet is because I haven't figured out just where to mount the 30" long inside unit. The only place I have available inside is over the rear doors, but then I would have a very long run for the cooling lines from the trailer tongue where the condenser will sit.
I looked at those wheels, but I need 16" rims to match the OEM steel ones, so I'll keep looking.
AMBOT
Adventurer
Yes the additional images helped, I recognize some of "he who must not be named" work.
We're definitely thinking alike on the platform, something expandable / fold-able, I'll share if I come up with anything useful.
The raised roof on the back is a perfect location for my unit should I decide to install it. I also considered it at the front above the jump seat, carving out the factory unit and losing a cabinet.
They do recommend some clearance from the top but in this application I wonder if it would matter if its butted up against the top. I read that its worth the effort to go thru the condenser unit and shore up any weak connections or areas where vibration may have an effect.
I think about the possibility to integrate the mini split compressor into the factory Hoseline Unit. Having the inverter compressor and condenser use the factory evaporator and fan would be sweet. However I also like to make things more complicated than they need to be just for the experience of it, or to just prevent me from making any real progress on anything!
I don't think you have anything to worry about with the line run. When I measured to have the condenser on the rear rack, it's actually almost too short a run. They have minimum and maximum length, and I think the front to back run is within spec, but that may vary greatly between models.
AMBOT
Adventurer
Ambot did 10 days in the Badlands and Black Elk Wilderness. All Expo systems performed great but ran into several issues that caused quite a bit of down time.
Our first stop was a small state park in Minnesota called Killen Woods. Nice little spot. It was the only opportunity I had to use the new multipurpose space on the rear carrier. I used some 80/20 and aluminum sheet to construct it and the cross bars store neatly where the rear step used to be. It made for a great cooking area and seals up with an inflatable mattress for a nice off ground sleeping quarter.
The following morning Ambot would not crank. My scan guage could not communicate with the PCM. However after about 2 hours all of a sudden after the key was on for about 3 minutes, the check gauges cleared and fired right up.
That got us to our destination at the Sage Creek Wilderness Campground.
The next day Ambot would not crank and it did not clear itself. We spent 3 days there so I had some time to try to dig into the problem.
The first thing in the morning we noticed some fluid leaking underneath at a steady drip. Coolant. Pulled off the doghouse and one of the aluminum lines that ran to the box heater was loose and making contact with the exhaust manifold. It melted a nice size hole. While not the cause of the no crank, it had to be fixed, so I cut out the line and plugged the ends with some closed ended sockets and clamps from the water tank.
Posted some threads in a diesel forum and got some pointers and tried a bunch of suggestions. I did find that the cable running from the glow plug harness to the starter was pinched between the heat shields on the back of the motor.
Putting a screwdriver in there would spark. Thought this was totally the issue! I made a perfect bush fix using some of the 2 ga wire feeding the winch, better than new yet it still would not crank.
We had plans to head to black elk peak and wasn't going to let this slow things down any longer, so Ambot got towed to Accelerated Diesel in Rapid City, SD. It took a bit to track down the problem. No PCM communication. They disconnected every sensor and it was still dead. They swapped a different one and that had the same issue. Popping off the middle harness of the PCM it came back alive and would crank.
The issue was that the ICP sensor was replaced at some time, and the plug they wired in was not sufficiently insulated. The three wires were fused together in their heat shrink causing a short in the harness. They also found a tear in the turbo boot, a common failure I understand. I recommend this shop for anyone in the area needing some help, as the Ford dealer would not look at it for 6 days. Olson towing did a great recovery and were reasonably priced.
I was quite pissed at Ambot for some time, but then realized that it really tried hard to get us where we needed to be. This short could have happened at any time, and would have killed the PCM and the motor. It managed to hold off dumping coolant and operating on frayed wire until we were at a safe location and provided cold beer, food, water, and power all off grid for the entire trip.
The 900 mile trip back was flawless and Ambots running great. This was only its 2nd lengthy adventure and I consider this to be working out any weak points and with only 15K miles I'm hoping this is the last of the motor issues.
Our first stop was a small state park in Minnesota called Killen Woods. Nice little spot. It was the only opportunity I had to use the new multipurpose space on the rear carrier. I used some 80/20 and aluminum sheet to construct it and the cross bars store neatly where the rear step used to be. It made for a great cooking area and seals up with an inflatable mattress for a nice off ground sleeping quarter.
The following morning Ambot would not crank. My scan guage could not communicate with the PCM. However after about 2 hours all of a sudden after the key was on for about 3 minutes, the check gauges cleared and fired right up.
That got us to our destination at the Sage Creek Wilderness Campground.
The next day Ambot would not crank and it did not clear itself. We spent 3 days there so I had some time to try to dig into the problem.
The first thing in the morning we noticed some fluid leaking underneath at a steady drip. Coolant. Pulled off the doghouse and one of the aluminum lines that ran to the box heater was loose and making contact with the exhaust manifold. It melted a nice size hole. While not the cause of the no crank, it had to be fixed, so I cut out the line and plugged the ends with some closed ended sockets and clamps from the water tank.
Posted some threads in a diesel forum and got some pointers and tried a bunch of suggestions. I did find that the cable running from the glow plug harness to the starter was pinched between the heat shields on the back of the motor.
Putting a screwdriver in there would spark. Thought this was totally the issue! I made a perfect bush fix using some of the 2 ga wire feeding the winch, better than new yet it still would not crank.
We had plans to head to black elk peak and wasn't going to let this slow things down any longer, so Ambot got towed to Accelerated Diesel in Rapid City, SD. It took a bit to track down the problem. No PCM communication. They disconnected every sensor and it was still dead. They swapped a different one and that had the same issue. Popping off the middle harness of the PCM it came back alive and would crank.
The issue was that the ICP sensor was replaced at some time, and the plug they wired in was not sufficiently insulated. The three wires were fused together in their heat shrink causing a short in the harness. They also found a tear in the turbo boot, a common failure I understand. I recommend this shop for anyone in the area needing some help, as the Ford dealer would not look at it for 6 days. Olson towing did a great recovery and were reasonably priced.
I was quite pissed at Ambot for some time, but then realized that it really tried hard to get us where we needed to be. This short could have happened at any time, and would have killed the PCM and the motor. It managed to hold off dumping coolant and operating on frayed wire until we were at a safe location and provided cold beer, food, water, and power all off grid for the entire trip.
The 900 mile trip back was flawless and Ambots running great. This was only its 2nd lengthy adventure and I consider this to be working out any weak points and with only 15K miles I'm hoping this is the last of the motor issues.
