Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Your hood is fibreglass and non conductive. I'd run them if you can secure them.
Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ
- Thread starter flightcancled
- Start date
patoz
Expedition Leader
Are both of these the engine starting batteries, or is one used as a house battery?
It does sound as if the driver's side battery is not the same as the original, but considering how high the coolant fill is above the battery top, I don't think it will be a problem as long as you can secure it down properly. I would also be very careful anytime you open the coolant reservoir, and make sure no coolant spills and enters the battery cells.
I do not like the cable clamp type of terminal connector, because they are weak, provide poor contact between the wire and clamp, and are susceptible to corrosion between the wire and the clamp itself.
I would either replace it with a factory terminal and cable or at least pick up a quality connector like the one mentioned in this article.
http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/how-to-replace-battery-terminals/
It does sound as if the driver's side battery is not the same as the original, but considering how high the coolant fill is above the battery top, I don't think it will be a problem as long as you can secure it down properly. I would also be very careful anytime you open the coolant reservoir, and make sure no coolant spills and enters the battery cells.
I do not like the cable clamp type of terminal connector, because they are weak, provide poor contact between the wire and clamp, and are susceptible to corrosion between the wire and the clamp itself.
I would either replace it with a factory terminal and cable or at least pick up a quality connector like the one mentioned in this article.
http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/how-to-replace-battery-terminals/
huskyhauler
Adventurer
My hood is definitely metal.
Are both of these the engine starting batteries, or is one used as a house battery?
It does sound as if the driver's side battery is not the same as the original, but considering how high the coolant fill is above the battery top, I don't think it will be a problem as long as you can secure it down properly. I would also be very careful anytime you open the coolant reservoir, and make sure no coolant spills and enters the battery cells.
I do not like the cable clamp type of terminal connector, because they are weak, provide poor contact between the wire and clamp, and are susceptible to corrosion between the wire and the clamp itself.
I would either replace it with a factory terminal and cable or at least pick up a quality connector like the one mentioned in this article.
http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/how-to-replace-battery-terminals/
Good advice on the terminals. I'll look those up at Napa.
Would it be possible that the 1996 E350 with the 7.3L TD has both a 50 series and a 65 series battery? They have different CCA and CA, but the dimensions seem to fit the battery locations. Interestingly enough, neither battery was secured. I'll have to install mounting brackets for both batteries.
50 Series: http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NBE9150/
65 Series: http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NBE9165/
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
My 12/96 E350 has a 65 series (or similar looking) under the hood on the passenger side, and a second 65series on the outside of the passenger side frame rail behind the cab. There isn't space under the hood for a second battery.
My bad about your hood, I guess they changed to glass later in the year.
My bad about your hood, I guess they changed to glass later in the year.
patoz
Expedition Leader
I thought the fiberglass hoods were installed by the Ambulance builder when they cut into them to add the strobe/siren speaker combinations on each side. In some cases the front grills of a lot of newer ambulances are replaced with fiberglass/ABS with molded in light and speaker locations.
cjken
Explorer
Yes. Mine has one 50 series and one 65 series. The 65 seems like a standard size the 50 was harder for me to source.
The 65 is I believe the one near the coolant bottle. I'd bring back one of the 50's and get a 65.
I also added two house batteries in my side storage box to power the module.
The 65 is I believe the one near the coolant bottle. I'd bring back one of the 50's and get a 65.
I also added two house batteries in my side storage box to power the module.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
My hood appears to be stock, and has no holes cut into it. Lights clamp onto stock grill, and the sirens are in the plastic beneath the stock bumper.
The two batteries I mentioned are starting batteries, and there are two more house batteries in the bottom of the electrical compartment behind the driver in the module.
I'd not be worried about spacing to the hood. There is lots of space for the + side, and the - side is connected to the hood already.
The two batteries I mentioned are starting batteries, and there are two more house batteries in the bottom of the electrical compartment behind the driver in the module.
I'd not be worried about spacing to the hood. There is lots of space for the + side, and the - side is connected to the hood already.
huskyhauler
Adventurer
Yet again this website proves invaluable. I don't know what's more of a savior, this site or the site that keeps my CT90 and 110 running.
I think I'll try to source a 65 since it fits in the cavity better.
Side note, my hood is stock with no cutouts. All the bells and whistles are in the bumper.
I think I'll try to source a 65 since it fits in the cavity better.
Side note, my hood is stock with no cutouts. All the bells and whistles are in the bumper.
patoz
Expedition Leader
I know this may sound like a strange idea, but have you checked the Ford specs for that year vehicle to see what it calls for? 
This is from the 1996 Econoline/Club Wagon Owner's Manual, page 356...
Apparently, the main battery can be a BXT-65-650 (Standard), or a BXT-65-850 (Optional).
The auxiliary (the smaller battery box) is supposed to be a BH-50DC. This is offered only on the cutaway applications such as an ambulance.
Here is the the link to the entire manual - http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/96ecoog1e.pdf
This is from the 1996 Econoline/Club Wagon Owner's Manual, page 356...
Apparently, the main battery can be a BXT-65-650 (Standard), or a BXT-65-850 (Optional).
The auxiliary (the smaller battery box) is supposed to be a BH-50DC. This is offered only on the cutaway applications such as an ambulance.
Here is the the link to the entire manual - http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/96ecoog1e.pdf
huskyhauler
Adventurer
Well, I grabbed a 65 series battery, replaced the damaged terminals with compression style terminals and secured the batteries. The rig starts right up and runs much better.
Now to deep clean and pack for the trip.
Now to deep clean and pack for the trip.
Jsweezy
Explorer
https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5642647355.html
Found this one for sale today and while I would love to jump on it (maybe depending on what y'all thought). I'm sure my wife wouldn't let me. Just figured I'd let anyone know who was debating a build!
Found this one for sale today and while I would love to jump on it (maybe depending on what y'all thought). I'm sure my wife wouldn't let me. Just figured I'd let anyone know who was debating a build!
rlrenz
Explorer
Getting back to batteries for a moment - I have never found a clamp-on terminal (as in Pat's photo) that's worth using. Battery cables are fairly fine strands, and the clamps in that type of clamp just can't hold on very well. If you can get a collet-type terminal, a solder terminal, or a crimp-type terminal, you'd be in better shape. The crimp terminals that are set with a special tool and a hammer work well. Regardless, when you install a new terminal, use a wire brush and clean the stripped end of the cable before you go any farther. Don't just clean the outside, use the wire brush like a comb to really get the wire in the bundle clean.
To get an idea of what's out there, check with Del-City (http://www.delcity.net/) or NAPA
To get an idea of what's out there, check with Del-City (http://www.delcity.net/) or NAPA
rlrenz
Explorer
You can nearly always find used ambulances on CL. The Fire Chief's Association has decreed that any emergency vehicle more than 15 years old has to be relegated to "back-up/reserve" status, and can't be considered as a primary response vehicle, so most of the used ambulances being sold by cities/hospitals will be right about 15 years old, or have about 200,000 miles on them. Users all have varying mileage as a criteria for replacement - I've seen everywhere from 125,000 miles on up, with transport ambulances (neo-natal, etc) having higher mileage.
You want to be careful buying from a private seller who has done a conversion - depending on their skills, you may have to start with an un-conversion. Buying from a fire department or city generally works OK since they have to meet maintenance standards, but the vehicle you wind up with may be getting due for repairs or maintenance. Buying from a dealer can also work well, especially if the dealer has a standard inspection and fluid replacement program. Replacing all the fluids sounds extravagant, but it's well worth it.
Do a Google search for ambulances for sale, and you'll find them all across the country. Check with any local ambulance dealers as well. They may have a trade-in that's in decent shape at a reasonable price.
BUT!
Be careful if things have been removed. It's fairly common for the Vanner inverter to be pulled, and the siren/etc are useless to a future buyer, but when they get started scrounging parts, where does it end? In my own case, I went with a refurbished ambulance. I paid to have everything working, to have the fluids changed, etc. My buggy could have been put intoo service as a walkin'-talkin' ambulance (other than the siren was removed). I even bought some new front tires through the dealer since I figured they could get a better price than I could. My drive back from Philadelphia back to Minneapolis was painless.
And a real selling point in my book, would be if they still have the original ambulance manual. Not for the data from Ford/Freightliner/IH - but for the ambulance module data. Wiring info, equipment locations, supplier names (such as Peterson #122 marker lights) all come in handy down the road, especially if you have to fix something that suddenly doesn't work anymore. A manual would be most likely with a purchase from a FD or a city, but it doesn't hurt to ask if there is one. It took me two years to track one down that applies to my unit.
I'm pretty fond of e military style battery terminals. A big standard crimp on lug for the cable, bolt that to the terminal, which clamps to the battery post. Makes hooking multiple batteries and/or electrical connections a snap.
All the hoods I've looked at, even the stockers in junk yards have been mostly glass with what I'm assuming to be critical stress areas reinforced with steel. The hood on my Ambo is a junk yard sourced replacement for the Wheeled Coach part, and it's mostly glass. Don't know what model year it came off of but it fits my 1991/1992.
All the hoods I've looked at, even the stockers in junk yards have been mostly glass with what I'm assuming to be critical stress areas reinforced with steel. The hood on my Ambo is a junk yard sourced replacement for the Wheeled Coach part, and it's mostly glass. Don't know what model year it came off of but it fits my 1991/1992.