Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ

[jagarcia89]

So far we are a little over 1500 miles and it’s running well. A couple quick questions then I will continue in my own build thread

1. Doors sealing? Seems they don’t seal well and dust gets in the rear doors and rear facing storage doors. I know it’s somewhat normal but given these seals are 25 years old, is it worth replacing?

2. Any one know a good guide to replace the accordion seal?

I’m thinking I am going to tear it down and remove most wiring. Many components don’t work and not knowing the box manufacturer not sure I’ll ever figure out how some of it supposed to work.


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[Ozrockrat]

For the accordion seal try www.fixmyambulance.com yeah seriously that is what it is called.

Yes replace the seals on the doors. And be very sure about what you are letting yourself in for before removing that wiring. Check out Driven To Adventure on YouTube to see what can be involved.

 

[Bikersmurf]

Go to a/the source. I remembered the name... https://www.auveco.com/weatherstrips-1

I did spot the dealer I was going to order from yet. They were in Washington or Oregon. If you can find a local wholesaler that’d be your best bet.

 

[jagarcia89]

Thanks. Yeah I’ve found a few sources for the accordian seal just not sure how the heck it’s mounted but I haven’t spent more than a few seconds looking at it.

For the doors just don’t wanna spend the money replacing them if the result will be the same but I think I’ll do it anyways. Can’t hurt.

As for the wiring, I know it’s good wiring but everything runs off the driving batteries, and I have 2 switch panels both have switches that are not functional (not just hooked up but broken) so my plan would be to keep the existing wiring running to lights etc but to my own switch panel and put house batteries to the bar. But I’m going to have to gut the thing to even figure out where/what the existing switches and wiring goes since I have two damaged panels and a lot of components not working at and not knowing what they are supposed to do when they work.

In the front panel I have front bar, wig wag, two AUX, scene light, dome light and emitter that downy seem to do anything and have no idea what they would do (aside from the wig wag, I know what that is but also that I won’t be using it). Back switches the interior lights and vent fan are the only ones that work.

I also have a red switches near each door that is sometime illuminated and I have no idea why. My assumption is each component is hooked up to multiple switches/functions. All powered by starting batteries so it’s useless to me. But I’ll see if I can make sense out of it by removing panels and going to town with a test light before I go ripping any more wiring out (already removed the main flasher bar and wiring but took photos so I could hook it back up easily.)

Wish I had a wiring diagram or guide but seller didn’t know either.


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[Bikersmurf]

Thanks. Yeah I’ve found a few sources for the accordian seal just not sure how the heck it’s mounted but I haven’t spent more than a few seconds looking at it.

For the doors just don’t wanna spend the money replacing them if the result will be the same but I think I’ll do it anyways. Can’t hurt.

As for the wiring, I know it’s good wiring but everything runs off the driving batteries, and I have 2 switch panels both have switches that are not functional (not just hooked up but broken) so my plan would be to keep the existing wiring running to lights etc but to my own switch panel and put house batteries to the bar. But I’m going to have to gut the thing to even figure out where/what the existing switches and wiring goes since I have two damaged panels and a lot of components not working at and not knowing what they are supposed to do when they work.

In the front panel I have front bar, wig wag, two AUX, scene light, dome light and emitter that downy seem to do anything and have no idea what they would do (aside from the wig wag, I know what that is but also that I won’t be using it). Back switches the interior lights and vent fan are the only ones that work.

I also have a red switches near each door that is sometime illuminated and I have no idea why. My assumption is each component is hooked up to multiple switches/functions. All powered by starting batteries so it’s useless to me. But I’ll see if I can make sense out of it by removing panels and going to town with a test light before I go ripping any more wiring out (already removed the main flasher bar and wiring but took photos so I could hook it back up easily.)

Wish I had a wiring diagram or guide but seller didn’t know either.


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What year? I’ve got a 2003 shop manual I can email you

 

[jagarcia89]

What year? I’ve got a 2003 shop manual I can email you

1996. I’ll take a 2003 because it’s better than nothing but not knowing who makes the box is still a mystery. The wires are numbered but not labeled with the component they go to. No tag to be found, the seller says he thinks it may be life line based on a fender dimension and I found another build on Instagram that is similar the guy says is wheeled coach.


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[qcdstick]

There are some similarities with my Medtec box for sure as far as the interior layout, but that isn't saying much. You really don't have any certification stickers left inside any of the compartments, plaques on the box, or anything that would tell you the make? Mine has it inside the driver's door (as a manufacturer sticker), inside the forward most driver's side module compartment (certification stickers for weight/payload, electrical test certification, KKK compliance sticker, etc), and various places on the body in the form of plaques. Don't know why someone would go through the trouble of removing all of those?!

 

[Fredricksen]

@jagarcia89
This may be of little (to no) value, but I have the electrical schematics for a '94 AEV box.
(All relays and solenoids behind the panel)

Also.. don't know if I missed it in the previous posts..
Please check the date codes on your tires.
With low miles on an older unit, they previous user may not have had to replaced the tires.
You don't need the tread delaminating on old tires, as you drive at highway speeds

 

[jagarcia89]

There are some similarities with my Medtec box for sure as far as the interior layout, but that isn't saying much. You really don't have any certification stickers left inside any of the compartments, plaques on the box, or anything that would tell you the make? Mine has it inside the driver's door (as a manufacturer sticker), inside the forward most driver's side module compartment (certification stickers for weight/payload, electrical test certification, KKK compliance sticker, etc), and various places on the body in the form of plaques. Don't know why someone would go through the trouble of removing all of those?!

Yeah nothing in the storage compartment, on the jamb or anywhere else I have found yet. There is some astro turf covering part of the compartment I am going to remove. It's also a tad frustrating the wires are all numbered wher as some I have seen have the component name printed on them.

@jagarcia89
This may be of little (to no) value, but I have the electrical schematics for a '94 AEV box.
(All relays and solenoids behind the panel)

Also.. don't know if I missed it in the previous posts..
Please check the date codes on your tires.
With low miles on an older unit, they previous user may not have had to replaced the tires.
You don't need the tread delaminating on old tires, as you drive at highway speeds

I think my tires are old, they will be replaced by the summer (when I hope to start traveling in it). I'll take any schematics i can find. If nothing else, it will help me understand how the general systems work and provide some clues.

 

[Fredricksen]

On my rig, There is a tag inside one of the outer compartments with a serial number and other details.
I called AEV, told them what I was looking for, got transferred to a guy that was super helpful.. gave him the serial number, and he emailed me the following doc.

The only things not covered were the additional doodads and gadgets that got added after it left the factory, but easy to figure those out..

(And please check your tires date code.. for safety reasons.
4 numbers in an oval, near the bead.. first 2 are the week, last 2 are the year "0815" is some time in Feb in 2015.)

Hope this helps...

 

[Bikersmurf]

Here is the Crestline manual I have a copy of...

 

[jagarcia89]

On my rig, There is a tag inside one of the outer compartments with a serial number and other details.
I called AEV, told them what I was looking for, got transferred to a guy that was super helpful.. gave him the serial number, and he emailed me the following doc.

The only things not covered were the additional doodads and gadgets that got added after it left the factory, but easy to figure those out..

(And please check your tires date code.. for safety reasons.
4 numbers in an oval, near the bead.. first 2 are the week, last 2 are the year "0815" is some time in Feb in 2015.)

Hope this helps...

Thank you. Called Life Line, the company that the seller thought made it. They said they had no record of that VIN or the original purchaser's fire dept. So the hunt continues. I am hoping witht he info all you guys have provided will at least give me an idea of how some of these systems work in a "typical" ambulance build.

As for tire date codes, fronts are 2017 and rears are 2010

 

[Bikersmurf]

Regulations make most of the ambulances very similar... that and no ambulance crews would ever change rigs if they were totally different. Lives could be lost if they have to fumble around to learn something new in a chrisis.

I used to hate switching blue box trucks because the mirrors were different (& aligned differently) and the controls were in slightly different places. Time spent thinking about these things would add up and make the day harder and longer. I would imagine the same would be true in an ambulance. The city planner I know said his crews would only let him order Crestline rigs with the bigger engine. Other companies would loan them rigs to try, but it was futile.

 

[mtrmble]

Can anyone tell me how to remove the seat back padding above the bench on a Horton?

 

[rlrenz]

Usually, something like this is held on with hooks at the top, and 3M Bead-lock at the bottom. Bead-lock is a little like Velcro, except it relies on two surfaces covered with little plastic beads on short risers. They hold so strongly that you'll probably need a Wonder Bar to seperate them, and a rubber mallet to reconnect them. Once the bottom edge is free, you should be able to lift the padding up. The padding may also be completely held on with Bead-lock, but that's not as common