America’s Great Continental Divide
- Thread starter moto-treks
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moto-treks
On the road
moto-treks
On the road
The next day it was off to Elkhorn Hot Springs. I've spent many nights at the hot springs on different trips and always enjoyed a good soak. They also have a great deal for the single traveler that includes a lodge room, breakfast and hot springs entrance for a very attractive price. But, we needed to get there and that would include a stop at the historic ghost town at Bannack State Park.
Bannack was founded in 1862 when John White discovered gold on Grasshopper Creek. Bannack has around 60 original building of which many are open to the public. It's one of the nicer ghost towns that I've visited
Most of us stayed in the cabins at Elkhorn and enjoyed soaking in the hot pools or sauna.
On our last night at the hot springs, Mia, our solo CDT bicycle rider showed up. Cowboy offered her a dinner of her choice which she gladly accepted. Afterward, Wendy, Tino and I told her we had an extra bedroom in our cabin if she wanted which she again accepted. While everyone thought we would surely meetup again, this visit turned out to be the last time we saw her. A week or so before we finished the US portion of CDT we received an email for Mia saying she had finished and was heading home.
Bannack was founded in 1862 when John White discovered gold on Grasshopper Creek. Bannack has around 60 original building of which many are open to the public. It's one of the nicer ghost towns that I've visited
Most of us stayed in the cabins at Elkhorn and enjoyed soaking in the hot pools or sauna.
On our last night at the hot springs, Mia, our solo CDT bicycle rider showed up. Cowboy offered her a dinner of her choice which she gladly accepted. Afterward, Wendy, Tino and I told her we had an extra bedroom in our cabin if she wanted which she again accepted. While everyone thought we would surely meetup again, this visit turned out to be the last time we saw her. A week or so before we finished the US portion of CDT we received an email for Mia saying she had finished and was heading home.
Great to see you were able to include Bannack and Elkhorn Hot Springs in your itinerary. Those are two of our favorite spots in southwestern Montana. We befriended a group of German CDT cyclists along the Big Sheep Creek Backcountry Byway back in 2015. Only one of them spoke some English, but ice cold bottled water and cold apples and tangerines turned out to be a universal language. Looking forward to the next installments!
moto-treks
On the road
I agree. This whole area is a great part of Montana. I could have spent another several weeks in the area but the smoke was getting pretty bad. I’ll need to head back down there sometime for another trip.
Farfrumwork
Well-known member
Just an FYI to Jupiter58 - I've done both Engineer and Cinnamon passes in our '17 4x4 Sprinter - no real issues. Good times!
And cool report moto-treks! I've been through lots of these places in CO and WY, but need to get to the NM trails and definitely more in MT (such an awesome place).
<<< My Avatar is from the Great Divide Basin, where we were almost lost - but just kept traveling NW on whatever trail we found. Made it out and to and Atlantic city, albeit somewhat covered in that sticky saline mud (this was my syncro)
moto-treks
On the road
The Coolidge ghost town and Elkhorn mine is a short drive from the Elkhorn Hot Springs but for some reason I had never found the time to visit during previous stays at the hot springs. Tino and I took off for a visit during our rest day at the hot springs. The mining town was built in 1914 and had a population of around 350 during the the mines peak. The mine continued to produce until the 1950’s
The school building operated from 1918 to the early 1930s
One of the better structures at the Coolidge Ghost Town
Elkhorn Mill
The school building operated from 1918 to the early 1930s
One of the better structures at the Coolidge Ghost Town
Elkhorn Mill
moto-treks
On the road
Tino and I tried to figure out how this drum was used in the mill.The drum’s diameter was around 12 - 15 feet. The center axle and spokes contained piping that looked as if some type of liquid was delivered to the outside of the drum. The outside circumference is made of the wooded structure that you in the picture. At one time it had a canvas layer on top of the wood structure with an inch or two gap between the wood and canvas were the pipes delivered the liquid. Maybe it was some type of ore rinsing drum or a centrifugal pump.
moto-treks
On the road
The next day it was time for the infamous Fleecer Ridge. We didn't look forward to heading north as all indications were that it was very smoky due to the Alder Creek fire near Wise River. The air quality index for Butte didn’t look good either. Greg (gvb40) informed us that he didn’t want to travel in the smoke or heat so he was going to leave the group and head for clean air and home.
After breakfast and a quick soak in the hot spring the remaining four vehicles in the group started the drive to Fleecer Ridge. But first up was a stop at the Crystal Park mineral collection area. Mia had told us that this park was known for digging up crystals. When we got to the park we all grabbed out digging tools; screwdrivers, hammers, chisels and shovels and started walking uphill in search of crystals.
This looked like some kind of a rock interrogation table
We didn’t really know what to look for but we did see several groups digging in the many large holes in the ground. I guess digging for crystals is a populate activity. If wasn’t long before we decided to continue on our way.
The closer we got to Wise River and the Alder Creek fire the thicker the smoke. We passed several fire fighting base camps along the way to Wise River. The smoke was so bad we opted not to stop at the Wiser River general store for ice cream. At the turn for Fleecer Ridge we stopped long enough to air down before heading up Jerry Creek road. Unfortunately, we only made it about six miles more before we ran into a signed ATV only trail. Since I had not ridden this section in 2013 I didn’t really know what to expect if we continues on the ATV tail so I started looking for alternate routes. All the maps I had showed Jerry Creek road deadening in several miles. I had downloaded satellite images to my Garmin Overlander and when viewing the area I could not see a way over to Fleecer Ridge.
Then, when looking at the Benchmark maps, I found a thin-red-line route a bit east of us that connected Highway 43 with Divide Creek road - the other side Fleecer Ridge. I looked for the road on the Overlander but all I could find was another dead end road. I had not downloaded satellite imagery for that area so I couldn’t verify if the road existed and if it went through. But, the road was on the benchmark maps and it wasn’t too late in the day so, why not go give it a look-see.
Backtracking down to Highway 43 we headed east until turning off on Charcoal Gulch road. A few miles up Charcoal Gulch road I started wondering if it was the correct road as we were driving through what seemed like the back yards or maybe front yards of peoples cabins. At one point I’m sure I heard the banjo music from the movie Deliverance. The road continued uphill but the further up we went the less of a road we had. Eventually, the road turned into an ATV trail winding through trees and creeks before it too faded away in what I was hoping was a cattle pasture.
At this point we had made it too far along the route to want to turn around especially since the GPS showed that Fleecer Mountain road was a little less than half a mile away - if it existed. I figured we were in fenced cattle pastures so all we needed to do was follow the fences and look for gates.
Fleecer Mountain road did exist and it turned into Crazy Swede Creek road which intersected with Divide Creek road. We had made it through, not via Fleece Ridge but via the 4x4 vehicle alternate.
When we reached I-15 Cowboy took off to wait for us in Helena which looked like it had better air quality than the Butte area. The remaining three vehicles took the I-15 underpass and continued on the CDT until we found a camping spot just south of Butte.
After breakfast and a quick soak in the hot spring the remaining four vehicles in the group started the drive to Fleecer Ridge. But first up was a stop at the Crystal Park mineral collection area. Mia had told us that this park was known for digging up crystals. When we got to the park we all grabbed out digging tools; screwdrivers, hammers, chisels and shovels and started walking uphill in search of crystals.
This looked like some kind of a rock interrogation table
We didn’t really know what to look for but we did see several groups digging in the many large holes in the ground. I guess digging for crystals is a populate activity. If wasn’t long before we decided to continue on our way.
The closer we got to Wise River and the Alder Creek fire the thicker the smoke. We passed several fire fighting base camps along the way to Wise River. The smoke was so bad we opted not to stop at the Wiser River general store for ice cream. At the turn for Fleecer Ridge we stopped long enough to air down before heading up Jerry Creek road. Unfortunately, we only made it about six miles more before we ran into a signed ATV only trail. Since I had not ridden this section in 2013 I didn’t really know what to expect if we continues on the ATV tail so I started looking for alternate routes. All the maps I had showed Jerry Creek road deadening in several miles. I had downloaded satellite images to my Garmin Overlander and when viewing the area I could not see a way over to Fleecer Ridge.
Then, when looking at the Benchmark maps, I found a thin-red-line route a bit east of us that connected Highway 43 with Divide Creek road - the other side Fleecer Ridge. I looked for the road on the Overlander but all I could find was another dead end road. I had not downloaded satellite imagery for that area so I couldn’t verify if the road existed and if it went through. But, the road was on the benchmark maps and it wasn’t too late in the day so, why not go give it a look-see.
Backtracking down to Highway 43 we headed east until turning off on Charcoal Gulch road. A few miles up Charcoal Gulch road I started wondering if it was the correct road as we were driving through what seemed like the back yards or maybe front yards of peoples cabins. At one point I’m sure I heard the banjo music from the movie Deliverance. The road continued uphill but the further up we went the less of a road we had. Eventually, the road turned into an ATV trail winding through trees and creeks before it too faded away in what I was hoping was a cattle pasture.
At this point we had made it too far along the route to want to turn around especially since the GPS showed that Fleecer Mountain road was a little less than half a mile away - if it existed. I figured we were in fenced cattle pastures so all we needed to do was follow the fences and look for gates.
Fleecer Mountain road did exist and it turned into Crazy Swede Creek road which intersected with Divide Creek road. We had made it through, not via Fleece Ridge but via the 4x4 vehicle alternate.
When we reached I-15 Cowboy took off to wait for us in Helena which looked like it had better air quality than the Butte area. The remaining three vehicles took the I-15 underpass and continued on the CDT until we found a camping spot just south of Butte.
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moto-treks
On the road
We woke to better air quality and made our way into Butte for fuel and supplies.
After a month on the road these resupply stops started getting easier. While driving into town I would let the group know where and when to meet. Typically, this would be a grocery store, gas station or coffee shop. Then everyone would head off and take care of getting their supplies for the next several days and go to the meet up spot.
Local artist Bill Clark, now 71, was a boilermaker for the Anaconda Co. for years, and during breaks and down time, he started welding bits and pieces together. We had to stop at his shop for a look at some of his sculptures.
Off for Helena
We met a few more CDT bicyclist as well a some locals
Empire Mine
Once in Helena everyone found hotels for the night. Tomorrow we would meet up with Cowboy and continue north. For now, getting laundry started and something to eat was all we needed to do.
After a month on the road these resupply stops started getting easier. While driving into town I would let the group know where and when to meet. Typically, this would be a grocery store, gas station or coffee shop. Then everyone would head off and take care of getting their supplies for the next several days and go to the meet up spot.
Local artist Bill Clark, now 71, was a boilermaker for the Anaconda Co. for years, and during breaks and down time, he started welding bits and pieces together. We had to stop at his shop for a look at some of his sculptures.
Off for Helena
We met a few more CDT bicyclist as well a some locals
Empire Mine
Once in Helena everyone found hotels for the night. Tomorrow we would meet up with Cowboy and continue north. For now, getting laundry started and something to eat was all we needed to do.
moto-treks
On the road
The next morning, Wendy wanted to head to downtown Helena to visit a bakery. So, we packed up and drove to the Park Avenue Bakery for sone fresh baked goods and coffee. Then it was off to the meetup spot to join the group and continue north.
Lunch Spot
We had been looking forward to getting to Lincoln Montana as we had been told by some fellow travelers that we could not pass Lincoln until we visited the Sculpture in the Wild International Sculpture Park. Sculptors from all over the world have been invited to create works of art using the materials from the area. It was indeed a worthwhile stop
It was getting late when we left Sculpture in the Wild so we stoped at Reservoir Lake for the night.
Lakeside camping
By this time in the trip we had learned that there was a very good chance that the border with Canada would be opening soon. At the start of the trip we knew this was a possibility so everyone had brought their passports so we could finish the trip in Banff, the official start of the Tour Divide mountain bike race. We didn’t know all the details but we knew we had a week or two before the opening so we decided to spend two nights at Reservoir Lake. It wasn’t a bad place as the water was warm, the smoke wasn’t bad and one could find huckleberries in the area.
Lunch Spot
We had been looking forward to getting to Lincoln Montana as we had been told by some fellow travelers that we could not pass Lincoln until we visited the Sculpture in the Wild International Sculpture Park. Sculptors from all over the world have been invited to create works of art using the materials from the area. It was indeed a worthwhile stop
It was getting late when we left Sculpture in the Wild so we stoped at Reservoir Lake for the night.
Lakeside camping
By this time in the trip we had learned that there was a very good chance that the border with Canada would be opening soon. At the start of the trip we knew this was a possibility so everyone had brought their passports so we could finish the trip in Banff, the official start of the Tour Divide mountain bike race. We didn’t know all the details but we knew we had a week or two before the opening so we decided to spend two nights at Reservoir Lake. It wasn’t a bad place as the water was warm, the smoke wasn’t bad and one could find huckleberries in the area.
Pie Town Yum!Moving north of the Gila Forest we entered the high open plains of New Mexico on the way to Pie Town
And finally pie
Me too