(Another) Forest Living Suburban Build Thread

[Burb One]

Just curious, and thanks for the info. I've sold off my 2500 Burb, but I may get another one in the future if it's an 8.1 or I swap a Duramax in.

I just figured for all the effort of swapping, why not start with the axles and front diff you want, as well as get a beefier transmission to go with it. However, you made some interesting points on the frame. I figured the linked 1500 rear might have something to do with it, and of course price and availability came into play as well. Just wanted to see if there was anything else I was missing.

If I could get away with a duramax in Burb One in CA, without big bucks- that would be the ticket. I have a 3500 LLY for towing and love it, diesel power is sure addicting.

I'll probably end up swapping in a 6.0 sooner or later. My 5.3 now has 240,000 miles and while definitely is down in power- still chugs along rather smoothly, but it's starting to show it's age.

When BurbOne started going under the knife for the suspension I had a tempting sight on a 2500 8.1 for $3k with 120k miles on it (It had ALL the windows cracked due to vandalism) and I really, really thought about restarting to get that power and allison. However, we take long trips and I think the mpg's (mostly just the stopping for gas and worrying about it) would wear harder than the power would.... 9 mpg vs. 14-15 mpg is too significant for me. I tend to average around 14mpg for 3-4 hours away trip, including off road, right now with the 5.3 and 35's, which all things considered is pretty nice with 50 gallons on board. 9 mpg's would really cut into that range.

The 5.3 has more than enough power off road for trouble off road in this truck I feel (In the vertical off road stuff I've never had 4.10 + 4low not have enough gearing if high range wasn't cutting it)- it's really going up steep grades on the highway where sometimes you need to sing at 3k+ to keep in the powerband at 60-70mph. The 6.0 should solve that I'm hoping, plus I might add a cam or something. I figure 300 hp at the wheels would be perfect, and that should be possible with a little bit of tuning and work to a 6.0 and not hurt mpg or NVH (quiet idling is required for us).

 

[fl0w3n]

If I could get away with a duramax in Burb One in CA, without big bucks- that would be the ticket. I have a 3500 LLY for towing and love it, diesel power is sure addicting.

I'll probably end up swapping in a 6.0 sooner or later. My 5.3 now has 240,000 miles and while definitely is down in power- still chugs along rather smoothly, but it's starting to show it's age.

When BurbOne started going under the knife for the suspension I had a tempting sight on a 2500 8.1 for $3k with 120k miles on it (It had ALL the windows cracked due to vandalism) and I really, really thought about restarting to get that power and allison. However, we take long trips and I think the mpg's (mostly just the stopping for gas and worrying about it) would wear harder than the power would.... 9 mpg vs. 14-15 mpg is too significant for me. I tend to average around 14mpg for 3-4 hours away trip, including off road, right now with the 5.3 and 35's, which all things considered is pretty nice with 50 gallons on board. 9 mpg's would really cut into that range.

The 5.3 has more than enough power off road for trouble off road in this truck I feel (In the vertical off road stuff I've never had 4.10 + 4low not have enough gearing if high range wasn't cutting it)- it's really going up steep grades on the highway where sometimes you need to sing at 3k+ to keep in the powerband at 60-70mph. The 6.0 should solve that I'm hoping, plus I might add a cam or something. I figure 300 hp at the wheels would be perfect, and that should be possible with a little bit of tuning and work to a 6.0 and not hurt mpg or NVH (quiet idling is required for us).

If you figure out how to do it without big bucks, let me know

I had an 02 Duramax, and an 02 2500 Burb at the same time and kept considering combining them, but the Burb was such a lemon I was just ready to get rid of it every other month. Now that it's gone, I'm glad that specific one is gone but I sometimes day dream of another one

If you can get a lower mile 6.0 for a decent price and it's just a drop in refresh for the 5.3, I'd say go for it. However, just armchair racing here, I'd say if you're opening up the 6.0 at all to do anything then you could arguably be better off with just rebuilding the 5.3
I was not all that impressed with the 6.0 in the Burb, but I was coming from an LBZ Duramax and the Burb frequently saw towing duties. I originally sought out the 6.0 vs 8.1 for MPG and I figured the LS platform would be a breeze to work on. I don't have personal experience with the 8.1, but I think they actually get about the same as 6.0's

I'm fairly certain the 8.1 in the Burb came with a 4L85e, not the Allison. I think the Allison only came behind the 8.1 in the trucks due to the higher clearance.

That broken window low mile sounded like a good deal, but I also agree that if you're not really towing with it the hit to MPG probably isn't worth it.

This was mine


And it’s last ride before I pawned it off

 

[Burb One]

Had a break from school a few weekends ago and sat down and took 10,000 measurements on the truck and recreated drop brackets in fusion... then I thought for a minute... Mine as well try something before getting all these pieces laser cut

That Monday i called RC up and they were able to send me just the lift brackets brand new for 140 bucks shipped....

i figured before starting from scratch... Let see what I can do with strrengthing what I've got.

well... I think it turned out very awesome. I ended up internally gusseting everything with 3/16 and plating it with either 3/16 everywhere and upped to 1/4 in the high impact/rock abuse areas. They weigh a little less than x2 as much but I think that extra 50 pounds is well worth it.

next on the list is to take apart the front end, plasma cut and grind all the stock hangars off and get to plating the frame and installing the coilover mounts and these drop brackets. I'll also add renforcememt to the frame mounts the brackets mount to(the stock control arm mounts) and also create a proper skid plate. Hopefully soon.

Heres the "stock" drop brackets (I sandblasted them)




Some pics in progress to give you an idea.

 

[Burb One]

No going back now.....



Most of the parts are painted. "Just" need to clean up the frame a little more, weld on the frame plates and coilover towers. I'm also going to reinforce the control arm stock mounts. After that it should be bolt-on... I'll also need to add the reinforcements to the drop brackets and a cross bracket above the engine between the towers. From there, I'll button everything up and give it a test run. Once I'm happy with where the coilovers sit (might add a 1 inch extension on the bottom of the coilover). I'll add SPC hydro bump stops in.



This is why I'm doing this..... both ball joints were bent... One almost 20 degrees and it was starting to wear the stud... not good. I will say- these have seen some years and abuse, probably should have replaced them sooner.

 

[Smileyshaun]

Silly question for you .
rough country makes a 4” drop bracket lift kit for the nbs platform , do you think off your experience swapping the 9.25 front diff would it squeeze in there or is that extra 2” of room needed with the 6” kit ?

 

[Burb One]

A

Silly question for you .
rough country makes a 4” drop bracket lift kit for the nbs platform , do you think off your experience swapping the 9.25 front diff would it squeeze in there or is that extra 2” of room needed with the 6” kit ?

Hey!

hmm, I'm not sure. I would assume it would be very close, but I bet you would run into interfence with the steering center link.... It looks like the design of the kit is almost identical to the 6". In fact according to the instruction sheet- the dropbrackets are the same part number (though the other hardware is different). Hard to tell....

I'd call them- RC has been great with customer service on odd and end questions. If I were you, I would do the 6" lift and if you only wanted 4" just adjust the keys so the truck sits lower. I don't think the geometry between the two kits is changed (because the drop brackets are the same part #.) (grain of salt only looked at this for a few minutes

Goodluck!

 

[Smileyshaun]

A


Hey!

hmm, I'm not sure. I would assume it would be very close, but I bet you would run into interfence with the steering center link.... It looks like the design of the kit is almost identical to the 6". In fact according to the instruction sheet- the dropbrackets are the same part number (though the other hardware is different). Hard to tell....

I'd call them- RC has been great with customer service on odd and end questions. If I were you, I would do the 6" lift and if you only wanted 4" just adjust the keys so the truck sits lower. I don't think the geometry between the two kits is changed (because the drop brackets are the same part #.) (grain of salt only looked at this for a few minutes

Goodluck!

your probably right with just going 6” , I just like the look of less lift . My 35s already clear with 2” of lift so that was my main reasoning behind just going 4” . I’m going to go coil overs shortly after anyways so I guess the more room I give the coil overs the better. Thanks for taking the time to answer my question .

 

[Burb One]

Really getting into the finishing touches.

Currently waiting for steering parts, and the coilovers, but all major welding is done on the front end.....


Passenger side a few weeks ago was completed. Note on this side because of the suburban AC outlet (for the rear) I'm having to modify the AC components. It looks like if Suburban is <03 you will be fine because the tee is at the accumulator. For mine, the tee was at the AC compressor and this interfered with the upright.


I loved Steelit paint... first coat ended up a bit wavy- but when it dried and with a light second coat it really turned out amazing. I'll some touchup- particularly on the arms at the end.




The last hurdle is the steering. I'm going a little overboard. I ended up putting in a bluetop 3500 HD 4x4 steering box, and then getting a mix of PPE 7/8 2500 steering components (idler, idler bracket, and pitman. These things are all massive. Note the 7/8 bolt from the tapered ~5/16. I have seen these shear- there's no way a 7/8 bolt will. Plus they have dual bearings in the head.


This required me to custom make my own center link with the 7/8 holes. PPE makes one for 2500 but the dimensions didn't make sense for a 1500.



From here, once all the steering components come the to do list includes:

1. Install the steering components, weld new idler bracket mount to frame, weld tie rod mount to knuckles.
2. Brake calipers and other odds and ends- brake lines, wheel speed sensor, etc. I'm putting 2020+ Silverado 4 pots and rotors- 80 bucks each!!!
3. Install Diff, make new skid pates and rear diff drop supports to frame.
4. Get the thing on the ground with the 1/4 steel tube with holes at ride height to get final corner weights for springs
5. Measure/Order/Install CV axles
6. Wait however much longer for the King coilovers to arrive.
7. Hydro Bumps and limit straps.
8. The end

After this is all done- I will be dealing with the paint/ cosmetics on the truck...

 

[Bret+famx7]

Can't wait for this to be buttoned up! Sold my Ram and just purchased an 06 Burb. I just reread your thread and is this the first time you've upgraded the steering box? Mine clunks a little bit while turning and is a little loose feeling and figured with the miles it has it's probably due. I remember in my Excursion research that the Redhead steering box was highly recommended and saw they offer one for these. Do you think it's a worthy upgrade or were you more or less forced to upgrade with the long travel?

 

[Dunezrunner]

Rear Axle is in and done. Just need to pull the shiny parts back out so I can paint.

Math worked out well- just need to adjust ride height by .5 inches up

Measurements show around 13 inches of travel (5-ish up and 7-ish down) with bumpstops and limit straps. This ratio should be perfect for the type of off-roading I do.

Also gained quite a bit of clearance below the axle. Nothing to hang up on anymore other than the pumpkin.
Also plated the frame on the side and bottom because I was worried about the new locations of the coilover mount and the bump stop.
I will probably eventually replace the Spohn stuff with Ballastic jointed tubing for more strength and a little less bind at full articulation (the rubber bushing are near their limit)

Now to start getting serious on the front end...


View attachment 622501


View attachment 622502

Do you have anymore pictures of how you set up the rear suspension? Do you have pictures of how you mounted the shocks? What stroke shock did you use?

thanks
Thomas

 

[Burb One]

Can't wait for this to be buttoned up! Sold my Ram and just purchased an 06 Burb. I just reread your thread and is this the first time you've upgraded the steering box? Mine clunks a little bit while turning and is a little loose feeling and figured with the miles it has it's probably due. I remember in my Excursion research that the Redhead steering box was highly recommended and saw they offer one for these. Do you think it's a worthy upgrade or were you more or less forced to upgrade with the long travel?

Hi Bret! Awesome to hear there's another Burb on here!

Yes- this is the first time I replaced the box (230k++ miles on the original.) It made a huge difference- don't know how much of it was due to a new box or the better quality.... but I feel much better with a higher end box than a cardone or some other budget rebuold.

However, I ended up putting in a later 3500HD blue top steering box- because to match the pitman to the idler- the angles worked out better. (This made me need to create different mounting for the box however) as the idler, pitman, ideler support and steering box are different in later models. (and much larger)

Both the Redhead or Bluetop have provided above and beyond customer service. Can't go wrong with either IMO!

 

[Burb One]

Do you have anymore pictures of how you set up the rear suspension? Do you have pictures of how you mounted the shocks? What stroke shock did you use?

thanks
Thomas

I'll get some better pictures once this saga is all done.

But basically I cut off the upper shock mount, plated the frame- and then made a mount out of an off the shelf mount and 1/4 square tube. Then I gusseted it on the front side and welded it on the back side to a (rather thick) U brace I had going across to the other side that I had made for the aux fuel tank a few years ago (when this idea was first being formulated.) I also put a 2x2 1/4 square tube between the the top uprights across the frame (and then gusseted up and down the inside face of the frame). I threw this all in solidworks and the frame is going to buckle up near the front of the wheel arch before any of this fails( :0 ). Hope it would never come to that though.

Let me know if that makes sense. Unfortunately I don't have many pictures up close or the final product right now, but I will take some good ones soon.





On the axle side I completely remade the lower control arm mount out of 1/4 inch steel (to also reenforce where the hydraulic bumpstop now contacts) and tied it together with some off the shelf mounts (below). You can see these in some previous pictures.

HD Coilover Shock Mount, Rear lower, Angled - PAIR | WFOConcepts.com

Find HD Coilover Shock Mount, Rear lower, Angled - PAIR at WFOConcepts.com

www.wfoconcepts.com

 

[Burb One]

Crazy news is that- IT DRIVES!!!

Drove it around with square tubing to check steering and to get it to perfectly flat ground to weigh it.

Steering feels amazing. Combination of the bluetop box, crazy idler pivot and mount/gussets, crazy large pitman and idler arms, solid center link, giant heims and tierods- I guess will do it lol. Also fully cycled everything and did final measurements. 15.5 inches of front travel- but I'll limit it to 14.5 for the CV's. Less than 1/32 of bump steer over the entire suspension travel!! Also much more steering angle.


SEE THE VIDEO BELOW!! Unfortunately Burb 2's spare wheel is slightly different so it didn't clear the new brakes... so to get it on the ground I had to put the rear spacers (got some crazy nice class 7 grade stainless 3" spacers for the rear axle) on the front axle. This means the front is now 7" wider than stock on each side LOL. I bought more chevy steel wheels that fit- so that'll be fixed soon.


Was able to get final corner weights so hoping Accutune will be able to send my King coilovers soon (King fulfilled the order last week so perfect timing).
After that- it's mounting the Diff and making skid plates, getting CV's and then bump and limit straps. I also will need to replace/rethink the wiper fluid bottle because it will rub at compression with steering angle.

AFTER that- I'll need to finish up that rear box quarter panel box I started making and deal with the cosmetics.

 

[tbisaacs]

Super cool! My biggest gripe with my Burb was the wagon-like ride off-road because these trucks had so little travel of front.

Yours is a beast!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bret+famx7]

Heck yeah! Thanks for the response. I'm not sure if I'll go as far as you have, but man that looks like it'll be fun when it's done! I'll have to wait and see how many kids are still living at home by the time that decision will be made

Are you going to run flares or fiberglass up front or run it as is?

And as far as the 6" RC lift and you saying it's more or less a 4" and level it up if you want the full 6" ... do you happen to know how much the lift springs lift the rear? I still have little kids and a crazy short wife and while she loved my Ram, she hated how high it sat. In my head if it's close to 4" and I put some 34ish tires it shouldn't be too awful tall(probably pretty close to the Ram was I think) and it'd give me the option to go bigger later on with minimal headache if the going gets a little tougher.