Another LR3 problem - park brake fault

[chirigringo]

2006 LR3 V8
I haven't even had a chance to dig deeper into my stalling on slopes issue and now another problem(s) arises. Last week both amber and red Park Brake lights illuminated and the red light is flashing. IIdtool reports "Park brake switch general electrical fault". The same day the truck decided it doesn't want to start until I've turned the key on and off four or five times. It will click the first few times then cough once then finally start up and run normally. Once it does start I get a Reduced engine performance notice which goes away immediately and no faults reported.
Notes:
I have tried repeatedly to clear the Park Brake fault using my IIdtool with no luck.
EPB is disengaged and inoperable.
I removed the EPB switch and dismantled it to check for moisture. Everything looks fine. I get the same fault with our without the switch plugged in.
I had a spare brake light switch on hand so I swapped that out with no effect.
If you haven't seen the news- it's been raining like crazy for a week in CO so I'm wondering if moisture might be a factor.
I've had and issue with stalling on steep slopes earlier this month. Related?

I know I'm throwing a lot out there but I'm hoping to get some direction or ideas before I haul it in to the shop. Maybe I just need a EPB switch? Thanks in advance- as always.
-Michael

 

[Some Dude]

Does it grind when you try to engage it? Does anything happen when you lift the button? You say it's disengaged and inoperable, how so? Did you pull the center console apart and use the emergency release hook?

 

[David Harris]

That's funny, because my 2001 Jaguar XJ has started doing something similar sometimes. I will go to start it and the parking brake on light illuminates, reduced performance is indicated as well as gearbox fault. I also can't shift out of park and the P (park) button flashes and beeps. If I turn the key on and off a few times it starts like nothing was wrong. Other times I start it and reduced performance comes on, but there is no actual reduced performance and it goes off when the vehicle warms up to normal temperature. It's not a Rover but it's made by the same company, so maybe there's a general fault shared in the engine management systems? Gotta love the electronic world sometimes! Can be so good, yet sometimes so bad.

 

[johnsoax]

My parking light fault comes on every once in a while, but it always works.....

My LR3 is in the dealer getting the lower control arms and a cracked tire valve stem replaced, so hopefully I will have less of the random errors, like the TPMS one.

 

[chirigringo]

When the EPB fault was initially triggered the EPB was off so I guess it's stuck in the open mode (thankfully). Absolutely nothing happens when I lift or depress the switch.
It drives as normal once it finally starts.
I do love this truck and all its elec-trickery, when it's working. The love fades quickly when my wife calls to tell me about another flashing light on the dash. I can sense you Series guys are laughing at me right now.

 

[Some Dude]

If you clear faults with IID and it still doesn't do anything or even make noise like it's trying to do something, I'm guessing it's the actuator. It'll be worth it to have your dealer diagnose if that's the case. You don't want to replace the actuator until everything else has been ruled out. They're ridiculously expensive.

 

[unseenone]

You might want Bodsy's Brake Bible, it is an excellent resource. http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4184

 

[DVD]

fwiw, I have the red light flashing on mine. I'm pretty sure that the parking brake actuator is the problem. I went thru Bodsy's Brake Bible to seat the emergency brake. I can use the emergency brake to stop the vehicle, but the parking brake part doesn't work. So I live with the flashing red light and carry $8 wheel chocks in case I really need a PB, instead of spending $1000-plus to have the actuator replaced. I think diy parts are $300-400, but people say it's not an easy job.
Good luck,
-Dirk

 

[nwoods]

How old is your battery? The LR3 is VERY sensitive to a healthy battery, and if you are running 3 or 4 years into it, I suspect a lot of problems are starting right there.

 

[Hugh166]

I would definitely check for battery for the things going on at start up. As nwoods said they are very sensitive top battery voltage. In regards to the parking brake, lets slow down with the actuator, we aren't there yet. The id tool says switch? And when you pull up on it it does nothing? I would try swapping in a switch that works first and then see what happens. A lot cheaper and easier than the actuator

 

[David Harris]

How old is your battery? The LR3 is VERY sensitive to a healthy battery, and if you are running 3 or 4 years into it, I suspect a lot of problems are starting right there.

Good point. When the battery got older on my Jag, I got lots of random warning lights. When you turn the key to the start position the ECU runs checks of all the systems, if the voltage is even slightly too low, some checks will fail and warning lights for the associated systems will illuminate. Replacing my battery made a big difference in this regard.

David

 

[chirigringo]

The battery was in the truck when I bought it but I thought I had determined it to have been replaced in 2012. Maybe I better look closer. Can I pull the relevant voltage with a multimeter or do I need it load tested?
I'll have to give the dealer a call to price out a new switch. Thanks again, guys.

 

[Mack73]

Update the firmware on your IIDTool. The new firmware will read off the battery voltage in real time!

 

[David Harris]

The battery was in the truck when I bought it but I thought I had determined it to have been replaced in 2012. Maybe I better look closer. Can I pull the relevant voltage with a multimeter or do I need it load tested?
I'll have to give the dealer a call to price out a new switch. Thanks again, guys.

The battery should be load tested. A marginal battery can read fine without load and underperform with load.

 

[chirigringo]

I'm thinking that the starting problem must be a weak battery. My wife usually drives the truck about 12 miles each way to work. This week I drove it to work about 35 miles each way. After about three days of that the start issue went away. I guess the longer trips gave the battery enough time to top off that extra few tenths of a volt.
No change on the Park Brake light. I was hoping to swing by the dealer this week to pick up a new switch but ran out of time.