Another Off Road Trailer Build to Pull Behind My Jeep

[nicholsmf]

I've for a lot of good advice over the years from reading on here, so I figured it was time to share something that might be useful, interesting, or even laughable for some of you.

I'm not sure what the end state of this trailer will be. A recent change at my place of employment resulted in me working 40 hours a week for the first time in my life. I'm used to 60 hours minimum, and 90 to 100 is not unusual. So I found myself bored and I've always thought these offroad trailers looked cool. Not sure I need one, but damn it, I'm building one.

Since I don't have a specific purpose in mind, I decided to go roughly 4' x 7' inside the cargo area. Tires and wheels were going to match the Jeep but my wheels are no longer made. So for now, I picked up two used 37s cheap and two cheap steel wheels. If I keep the trailer, I'll replace the wheels on the Jeep and trailer with something new that matches and put all matching tires all around.

Anyway, the frame and tongue is built from 2" x 3" X 1/8" rectangle tubing. Axle is 2" X 2" x 1/4" square tubing with spindles welded in.

Floor bracing is 2" X 2" x 1/8" angle. Floor will be 14 gauge treadplate.

As it sits now, the trailer weight 460 lbs. Floor should be around 95 lbs, I think. I've cut the uprights for the cargo area from 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" square tubing at 20 inches long, but haven't tacked them on yet because I'm not sure that's the route I want to go.

So let me see if I can share pics.

Just laying some stuff out in the floor to get an idea where to start



Basic frame mostly welded and back on some stands




Tongue, springs, axle and tires on.



Maiden voyage to the scale to check the weight. 440 lbs as shown



Back in the shop while I think



Rear receiver tacked on.




Some floor supports welded in and more finish welding done.



That's all for now.

 

[nicholsmf]

To add, since I have no definite purpose for this trailer, it will probably be a simple open top utility trailer for now. If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate them. I'm cruising through other build threads for ideas. Also, any critique on the work I've done so far is appreciated too.

 

[Kingsize24]

Looks like a GREAT start to me.

 

[nicholsmf]

Looks like a GREAT start to me.

Thank you!

 

[nicholsmf]

I have a question for all you experienced trailer builders. I think, at least initially, this is gonna be an open top utility trailer. Maybe later down the road, I'll add a hinged top with RTT platform, but not sure. With that said, I would like the trailer to be waterproof. Here's my thoughts, at least for now.

Uprights from the trailer frame of 1.5" x 1.5X x 1/8" square tubing with a top rail of the same 2" x 3" x 1/8" rectangle tubing used for the frame (laying down 3 inch wide and 2 inch high).

Then skin the inside with sheet metal. 16 gauge??

The floor will be 14 gauge tread plate.

How are you guys waterproofing from entrance of water through the floor and sides?

I picture the 14 gauge tread plate overlapping the frame members by 1/4" and stitch welded to the frame on top then stitch welded to the floor supports from the bottom. That leaves plenty of room for the sheet metals skins for the sides to be fitted snug against the frame and the bottom of top rail. But how are you guys waterproofing these areas? I'm thinking seam sealer for body work on autos, but curious what others are doing.

For the top, I'm thinking I'll visit an upholstery shop and have a waterproof cover made until I make my mind on what direction I will continue. Or maybe just leave the top open. I'd still like to waterproof for future changes.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Waterproof and open top trailer aren’t a great combination. Even with a good cover water will find its way in while following your rig down a rainy road. I strongly recommend floor drains, if not open all the time, at least weld on some pipe thread fittings you can easily remove plugs from in the corners to drain accumulated water as needed. My trailer is covered and sealed and still gets occasional water in it during bad storms or long tows through rain. My pipe plug drains are great.

 

[nicholsmf]

Waterproof and open top trailer aren’t a great combination. Even with a good cover water will find its way in while following your rig down a rainy road. I strongly recommend floor drains, if not open all the time, at least weld on some pipe thread fittings you can easily remove plugs from in the corners to drain accumulated water as needed. My trailer is covered and sealed and still gets occasional water in it during bad storms or long tows through rain. My pipe plug drains are great.

Water proof open top isn't a long term plan. Actually, at this point, I think the plan has changed to a tread pate floor and expanded metal sides - not a crappy Lowes trailer type expanded metal - but maybe 3/4 #9 flattened or something, with no cover. I'm not sure honestly. I don't have a need or purpose for this trailer. It's just something I'm building for fun in my spare time, so my design plan changes by the day.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Water proof open top isn't a long term plan. Actually, at this point, I think the plan has changed to a tread pate floor and expanded metal sides - not a crappy Lowes trailer type expanded metal - but maybe 3/4 #9 flattened or something, with no cover. I'm not sure honestly. I don't have a need or purpose for this trailer. It's just something I'm building for fun in my spare time, so my design plan changes by the day.

Agreed! 3/4x9 flattened is a nice size because bungee hooks and even quite a few ratchet straps will easily engage it. It makes tying stuff down really easy. I use a few sheets a year for all sorts of projects.

 

[nicholsmf]

Made a little more progress

 

[gatorgrizz27]

Cool build, looks extremely handy for a lot of purposes. A couple things I’d recommend are some type of “mounting points” at the corners to allow accessories to be added over time. Stuff like canoe bars, a bike rack, etc. I also get why you did the continuous top rail above the tailgate from a strength point, but I think it would be more useful for hauling stuff like an air compressor, generator, etc if the whole thing dropped down so you didn’t have to lift over the rail.

And tuck the lights somewhere that they don’t get easily ripped off the sides or smashed while backing up!

 

[nicholsmf]

Cool build, looks extremely handy for a lot of purposes. A couple things I’d recommend are some type of “mounting points” at the corners to allow accessories to be added over time. Stuff like canoe bars, a bike rack, etc. I also get why you did the continuous top rail above the tailgate from a strength point, but I think it would be more useful for hauling stuff like an air compressor, generator, etc if the whole thing dropped down so you didn’t have to lift over the rail.

And tuck the lights somewhere that they don’t get easily ripped off the sides or smashed while backing up!

Thanks. For mounting, I've had mulriple ideas of a roof rack type rack on top that is removable. Not sure yet.

The continuous top rail should be fine for hauling coolers and tents and stuff which is proball this trailer will ever haul. If not,it's easy enough to cut it out and build a taller tailgate.

For now, I'm focusing on getting the lights on so I can get it inspected and registered. Tons of ideas for later that constantly change.

 

[nicholsmf]

I forgot to take a pic before I left the shop for the day so here's one from the security camera. Stage one is almost complete. Painted and ready for lights tomorrow. After that I'll get it inspected for a title and registration then move on to side walls.

 

[PCO6]

Nice trailer build and I really like your shop! Are those Lista cabinets along the walls?

 

[nicholsmf]

Nice trailer build and I really like your shop! Are those Lista cabinets along the walls?

Thank you. The cabinets are Vidmar and I absolutely love them.

 

[PCO6]

Thank you. The cabinets are Vidmar and I absolutely love them.

Yes, those are good quality cabinets, and that does make a difference.