Another Question for Chris: Shocks for Washboard

[bajajoaquin]

Chris,

I've got a thread going in the DIY Campervan forum, because I'm never sure where to put a Class C. Greater Washboard Performance

From the last time I asked you a question, I believe that I can increase tire size to improve washboard performance a bit (from 235s to 255s). But what shock setup do you recommend for your camper conversions? Budget meant that I put on Gabriel gas shocks, but I'm willing to look at upgrading. For this weight (15,500lb) and application, are Bilstein 5100s a viable option or am I looking at something more sophisticated like King or Fox?

Also, any other recommendations for optimizing this for washboard driving?

Thanks!

 

[sourdoughben]

Increase the shock travel with a lift and shocks with a higher fluid capacity for less fade.

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[Peter_n_Margaret]

All of the work done by dampers is converted to heat. When the oil gets hot its viscosity reduces and the effect of the dampers "fades". More oil and improved heat dissipation will reduce the effect somewhat, as will reducing the unsuspended weight to reduce the work required.
Conventional leaf springs have significant inter-leaf friction which provides a lot of damping. This reduces the work required of the dampers. Make sure the leaves have the clamps in place to keep them together during the rebound to maximise the inter leaf friction.
The work required of the dampers with coils or torsion bar suspension is much greater than that with conventional leaves.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[dstefan]

Air down. The best shocks cant help nearly as much if you’re at high street PSI.

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

This is a chart I use for airing down. It is derived directly from Michelin data.
Speed is critical to avoid overheating the tyres.

Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[deserteagle56]

Quality shocks will definitely make a difference. But as others have said, the biggest difference will be with airing down. I don't mean airing just a few pounds, I mean airing down to where you see a definite bulge in the sidewall. Which means you will need to carry an air compressor to air back up once you hit roads where you can travel highway speeds.

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

Quality shocks will definitely make a difference. But as others have said, the biggest difference will be with airing down. I don't mean airing just a few pounds, I mean airing down to where you see a definite bulge in the sidewall. Which means you will need to carry an air compressor to air back up once you hit roads where you can travel highway speeds.

Another look at airing down (in accordance with the chart above).
Numbers are derived directly from Michelin data for this tyre.


Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[bajajoaquin]

Quality shocks will definitely make a difference. But as others have said, the biggest difference will be with airing down. I don't mean airing just a few pounds, I mean airing down to where you see a definite bulge in the sidewall. Which means you will need to carry an air compressor to air back up once you hit roads where you can travel highway speeds.

Which, if you read my thread about it, you would know isn't an option for me with my current setup. Since I don't have unlimited funds to try everything, I'm trying to see if others have a similar setup (weight, duals, wheel sizes) with specific experience and recommendations.