Another tire question

[rrliljedahl]

I own a 2007 classic GMC Sierra 3500 which has the stock chrome steel 16x7 rims with 5 3/8 inch offset.

There is no lift kit in this truck.

On the advice of my custom fabricator but with my consent, he replaced my Michelin LTX 265x75/R16 with a set of slightly used Toyo Open Country M/T 315x75/R16.

So now I have gone from having a 32 inch tire to a 35 inch tire with these additional modification.

Bushwacker Cut Out Fenders


Flatbed install



So here is my problem

On a sharp turn, the front tires rubs on the sway bar.


The rims are 7 inches but the tire manufacturer recommends a 8-10 inch rim with an 8.5 being preferred.

Any thoughts on the best solution would be appreciated.

 

[rrliljedahl]

I see that I am getting lots of looks but no comments.

Maybe I was not clear enough about my questions.

What are the potential problems when using a 7 inch rim with a tire designed for a 8-10 inch rim?

Short of buying new rims, is there a solution for the tire rubbing on the sway bar when turning sharply such as adding a spacer?

 

[Hilldweller]

I prefer new wheels over spacers every time.
'til then, you might be able to adjust the steering stops. It will increase your turn radius but you won't rub.

 

[rrliljedahl]

What are the potential problems using a tire that requires an 8-10 inch rim on my factory 7 inch rims?

 

[rambrush]

Sidewall "poochs" sticks out a tad farther making it more prone to sidewall damage is what I am thinking. But again I live in Rock country and that may not be a issue for you.

I am also a fan of proper wheels with proper backspacing, adding spacers puts more strain on bearings studs etc.

 

[RangeBrover]

I wouldn't worry about the rub too much. I had the same issue with my 200 series where the tire rubbed the same spot, it was minor enough that I never really worried about it.

There's nowhere for the wheel to get caught on it, and it probably won't do any major damage long term. I know a mechanic is going to come out yelling at me but I don't think it's going to be an issue for you.

That being said I would just get some spacers, people can complain about them all they want but we've run them on our 4Runner for over 60k miles with out a single issue.

 

[Hilldweller]

Sidewall "poochs" sticks out a tad farther making it more prone to sidewall damage is what I am thinking. But again I live in Rock country and that may not be a issue for you.

I am also a fan of proper wheels with proper backspacing, adding spacers puts more strain on bearings studs etc.

I agree.
Spacers are also non-compliant with current DOT regs and reputable tire shops won't mount a tire if you have spacers.
Wheels are just too cheap these days to justify spacers. Especially when your talking about saving steelies that are too narrow anyhow. Go lighter, go stronger, get new wheels and solve all your problems at once.

 

[libarata]

I would certainly use the right tool for the right job, and kind of wonder about your fabricators sanity. Would you use a tire meant for an 18 inch rim, on a rim meant for 20 in tires?

 

[rrliljedahl]

I would certainly use the right tool for the right job, and kind of wonder about your fabricators sanity. Would you use a tire meant for an 18 inch rim, on a rim meant for 20 in tires?

My fabricator and I have parted ways for a multitude of reasons to include not his inability to complete my vehicle over 9 months and multiple false statements as to how my deposit money had been spent.

We have now moved from a verbal disagreement into the legal and potential criminal mode.

Here is a link I started about a major error in his design of my flatbed 3 point pivot suspension

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/134092-3-point-suspension-question

My vehicle is in a state of disrepair but I am lucky to have gotten it out if his shop.

With this post, I am simply trying to find my best option going forward concerning my tires.

 

[rrliljedahl]

This is single rear wheel diesel 2007 classic GMC Sierra 3500 that will have a 2500 lb dry weight camper on the back.

Those tires are
Toyo Open Country M/T
315x75/R16
10 ply 3 rated 3860 pounds
8-10 inch tim recommended

Specifically what wheel should I be considering?????

 

[MotoDave]

It shouldn't be hard to find a (aluminum maybe?) wheel with less backspacing, which should fix your rubbing issue. Is it only rubbing at full lock, or does the tire hit the sway bar earlier?

Tell us that, and find/measure what the backspacing of the stock wheel is, and we can give you some recommendations.

 

[rrliljedahl]

I measure the backspace at 5 3/8 inches.

It is close to full lock when it rubs. I only notice it when driving in and out of tight places..

 

[Hilldweller]

This is single rear wheel diesel 2007 classic GMC Sierra 3500 that will have a 2500 lb dry weight camper on the back.

Those tires are
Toyo Open Country M/T
315x75/R16
10 ply 3 rated 3860 pounds
8-10 inch tim recommended

Specifically what wheel should I be considering?????

I'd go to a 4WheelParts store near you and plop that info on their counter. They run sales and specials and have remarkable latitude in pricing, especially with ProComp.
You'll just need to know your bolt pattern and what color you want.
When I had a similar problem a few years ago that's what I did. I walked out with 5 wheels @ $75/each.
There are lots and lots of wheels available at good prices that have 4.5" backspacing.

 

[1stDeuce]

Actually, your wheels are 16x6.5.

Most aftermarket 16x8 wheels will have backspace of 4.5", which is the same as the steel wheels you're running. But the added 1.5" of width will then be all outboard, which should provide you with 3/4" more clearance at the inside. If you find a 4" backspace wheel, that would get you another 1/2" of clearance out of that. While this solves one problem, remember that the farther you hang the tires outboard, the more stress you put on the wheelbearings and balljoints. Also, the bigger an arc they swing when you turn, so you may have rubbing problems at the front and back of the fender that you don't currently have...

Running a 35" tire on a narrow wheel isn't really ideal, but aside from causing a little more wear in the center of the tire, it's not likely to hurt anything for light use. It will actually help keep the sidewalls protected, not make them "pooch" out, as someone else suggested. Running wider wheels for a given tire width pushes the sidewalls out, making them more vulnerable to damage. The narrower wheel sucks them inward, which protects them. It also means you're less likely to peel a wheel off the bead if you air way down. I always try to be at or near the minimum wheel width for a given tire size when I can for these reasons. That said, given that you want to carry a LOT of weight, and your wheels are 1.5" narrower than the recommended width, I think you're doing the right thing in looking for some 16x8's.

I was thinking a set of Dodge 16x8's might help some, but it seems they actually have MORE backspacing... ?? Best bet is some cheap aftermarket 16x8's. Watch CL and you'll probably find a used set fairly quickly. You might check a few local junkyards too.

If you want to just buck up, any of these wheels with 4-4.5" of backspace will work. (Thanks 4wheeparts.com for the list!)

C

 

[Hilldweller]

If you went in and said give me these for $100 each, they'd probably do it.