zukrider
Explorer
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/full.aspx?Page=118
i would like some opinions please. any others worth looking at?
i would like some opinions please. any others worth looking at?
any chevy guys used these?
- Thread starter zukrider
- Start date
Larry
Bigassgas Explorer
I don’t have any experience with those exact headers but speaking in general, I would pass on headers all together. In my experience, headers are only good for burning perfectly good plug wires, overheating starter motors, increasing underhood temperatures and causing one annoying exhaust leak after another. You don't want any of those problems on an expo rig if you plan on finding yourself in the neverlands from time to time. For what little power you will gain from them on a stock engine they are not worth the hassle in my opinion.
xpndbl3
Adventurer
you must be buying some really crappy headers with then flanges or cheap gaskets then. I've ran them on sbc engines in the rust belt for years without issues. Maybe buying quality fel-pro gaskets and aluminum gaskets for the 3 bolt flanges would eliminate exhaust leaks. Using stage 8 brand locking header bolts guarantees the headers won't ever come loose which is what leads to 90% of exhaust leaks, loose fasteners. If you route plug wires properly and use all 90 degree boots it won't be an issue, but for another $41 from summit racing you can install some spark plug wire covers that you won't ever burn through. As for overheated starters, a hot start condition can be solved by relocating the starter solenoid by using a ford style one if that condition presents itself.
Larry
Bigassgas Explorer
Yeah, that must be it.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
I'll second going with manifolds. The only headers that I'd consider would be something OE off a slightly later model. For the engine swap SBC into my FJ60 I'm going with a "rams horn" manifold.
For an engine that has been designed to be high output a tuned header is very necessary. For a near stock to stock engine the gains will be more "ghetto-dyno" than real. Not worth the hassle IMHO.
For an engine that has been designed to be high output a tuned header is very necessary. For a near stock to stock engine the gains will be more "ghetto-dyno" than real. Not worth the hassle IMHO.
earthmuffin
Observer
Personally, I am not a fan of headers either, but the ones that I had on my Chevy pickup were probably kind of cheap. After dealing with leaks and cooked starters for the better part of 2 years and trying everything under the sun to remedy it I went back to some stock manifolds and never regretted it.
I didn't even notice a power difference either.
I didn't even notice a power difference either.
hillbillyjake
Explorer
x3 for manifolds
wrench-head
Observer
I have used several brands of headers and you definately get what you pay for. Even that said there are expensive P.O.S's out there. I have the Edelbrock headers sitting on a shelf right now that came off of a 454. I wouldn't get the Ti-Tech coating as it doesn't last a year. I am currently running ceramic coated hookers on my TBI 350. I wouldn't have beleived the power difference it made had I not done it. Of course I redid the entire exhaust system. If you are just going to bolt to your stock exhaust then it isn't worth it.
As far as overheated starters, and burnt wires. I have never had an issue on my chevy or dodge vehicles, but I use looms to route wires. I have actually spent more time in my life repairing cracked manifolds than I have chasing exhaust leaks or other header issues. It is all personal preference really. I try to leave nothing on the table if I don't have to. My big block swap will be running long tubes if they clear the SAS brackets. If not the edelbrocks will get blasted and ceramic coated with quality coating.
Bottom line, if you do it, look for thick flanges and tubes. Ball and socket flanges have leaked in most installs I have seen. Keep your wires clear. Use good locking header bolts ( I never have and don't have leaks) and you should be ok. Never had an issue with starters, so I can't speak to that.
-Alex
As far as overheated starters, and burnt wires. I have never had an issue on my chevy or dodge vehicles, but I use looms to route wires. I have actually spent more time in my life repairing cracked manifolds than I have chasing exhaust leaks or other header issues. It is all personal preference really. I try to leave nothing on the table if I don't have to. My big block swap will be running long tubes if they clear the SAS brackets. If not the edelbrocks will get blasted and ceramic coated with quality coating.
Bottom line, if you do it, look for thick flanges and tubes. Ball and socket flanges have leaked in most installs I have seen. Keep your wires clear. Use good locking header bolts ( I never have and don't have leaks) and you should be ok. Never had an issue with starters, so I can't speak to that.
-Alex
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zukrider
Explorer
ive had both mani and headers, on a variety of vehicles. my preferences are different on each kind of vehicle. but, this is my first tbi chev, and mostly my question was pointed toward the actual headers themselves.
wrench-head hit my answer on the nail.
i do agree though, that manifolds are more problem free, but i prefer headers on small blocks. and stock exhaust belongs in the trash. i doubt i will bother, since im 80% sure im gonna go with a diesel. but i do appreciate all the replys.
keep your eye on my posts coming in the future. ill be doing some projects here soon. like rear storage, aux electrical, and a few other odds and ends!
wrench-head hit my answer on the nail.
i do agree though, that manifolds are more problem free, but i prefer headers on small blocks. and stock exhaust belongs in the trash. i doubt i will bother, since im 80% sure im gonna go with a diesel. but i do appreciate all the replys.
keep your eye on my posts coming in the future. ill be doing some projects here soon. like rear storage, aux electrical, and a few other odds and ends!
deserteagle56
Adventurer
I had the long headers on a small-block 400 Jimmy for many years. Never had any problems with them - but never realized any benefit either. No better power. No better mileage. When one side got bunged up in a small wreck I replaced the headers with the stock manifolds and again did not notice anything different. (The rig did have dual exhausts)
But then, my 4x4 was used for back-country exploring. In all the years I drove that thing I doubt my tach got above 3 grand more than 5 times and most of the time it never got over 2500. With the engine turning over that slow, headers probably just don't make a difference. Have you ever looked at the graphs the header manufacturers provide to show how much more power their headers provide? Most of the graphs start at 3000 rpm or higher and go up to 6 grand or so. Well, I'm not running a dragster! So I guess it depends on how you'll be using your truck, whether the headers will provide any benefit.
But then, my 4x4 was used for back-country exploring. In all the years I drove that thing I doubt my tach got above 3 grand more than 5 times and most of the time it never got over 2500. With the engine turning over that slow, headers probably just don't make a difference. Have you ever looked at the graphs the header manufacturers provide to show how much more power their headers provide? Most of the graphs start at 3000 rpm or higher and go up to 6 grand or so. Well, I'm not running a dragster! So I guess it depends on how you'll be using your truck, whether the headers will provide any benefit.