Any cooling system upgrade for the 22-re and a couple other questions?

[BLKNBLU]

Here is a what and why about the air flow meter adjustment.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/afm/
Essentially the same thing from Downey
http://www.downeyoff-road.com/EngineComponents/FuelInjection.html
More AFM tech from Roger
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml
Specs on the different TRD cams
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/index.shtml#CamSpecs

If you still have contact with the guys that did the work, see if you can determine which cam they put in. Also if they tweaked the throttle body. Generally the mild cams don't require any adjustment. I have one from a different company but essentially a level 2 cam that I run with LCE headers, stock TB, and no adjustment of the AFM. Perhaps if you have cam/headers/and TB mods all together that added up to the need for AFM adjustment?

On the gearing, conventional wisdom is that 4.88 is the perfect match for 33's. Take that with a grain of salt. I'm now sas'd with 35's and 5.29s which is supposed to be the optimal pairing. What I have found though is that I'm running a little under the speedo when compared to GPS (about 10%ish) So I figure I may be able to fix that with 37's, but that is going to have to wait until the current tires wear out and that is going to be a while. I ran my 4.10s with 31's for years and had the same situation as you, 3rd gear to get up the long hills. But the only time I had temp issues was when my rad was on it's way out. On the other hand I was carrying nowhere near the weight as you. 4.88s with 31's should have you zipping up the hills but the engine will be screaming from high revs.

 

[roamingaz]

Thanks for all the info guys!
I did email the PO a few months back and he responded with a very detailed list of work he had done. Here is the specs on the engine work:

Block – bored 0.030” with factory Toyota pistons. Rod bearings, main bearings, freeze plugs were replaced. The crank is standard. The rods are stock. Water pump was replaced along with all seals, gaskets, etc.



Head – LC Engineering’s “EFI Pro” head (has bigger valves, polished and ported) with a Toyota Stage 1 camshaft. Remember- this camshaft has different valve adjust specs than stock.



Exhaust – LC Engineering’s complete exhaust system including headers, catalytic converter and straight-through muffler and all connecting exhaust piping.



Air flow meter – adjusted 3 “notches” to compensate for increased air flow through the engine.



Cooling fan – electric fan with adjustable thermostat.



I have been thinking about stripping the add on stuff off the truck and selling it then buy a extended cab with the V6 or maybe even keep most of the stuff on and only remove the rtt and fridge , get more money and buy a 4 runner (more room) anyone in the market for a really nice pickup?:drool:

 

[BLKNBLU]

I have been thinking about stripping the add on stuff off the truck and selling it then buy a extended cab with the V6 or maybe even keep most of the stuff on and only remove the rtt and fridge , get more money and buy a 4 runner (more room) anyone in the market for a really nice pickup?:drool:

Hmm... Maybe. Likely I can't afford to do it, but let me know if you decide to go that route.

 

[roamingaz]

Hmm... Maybe. Likely I can't afford to do it, but let me know if you decide to go that route.

PM me or email (roamingaz@yahoo.com) what you have in mind, trade is a option, I'm still not 100% on it just tossin around some ideas.

 

[ntsqd]

I would take it back to a stock cooling system first. Then figure out if you really have a problem or if something that was modified is the culprit. Hate to say it, but not every trained & good mechanic is also good at modifying vehicles. Being really competent at diagnosing and fixing problems is a whole different skill set. Some guys can make the jump and others can't.

 

[red87]

How about adding an engine oil cooler? You could get real high speed and put a small cooling can on it if you want.

I'll second that. An oil cooler will pull some heat out of the engine and you can relocate the oil filter to a easily accessible area. If you go this route, be sure to get a set up with a thermostat, you don't want to cool the oil too much.

 

[EXP-T100]

put a ford taurus 2speed fan in it. that fan will cool any thing. and put 5.29 in it if you are running 35's and 4.88 for 33". just going to 5.29 will help it run cooler because the engine wont have to work as hard