Any Engel specialist here? My fridge only works on 120V.

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Hi!

so it's official - there's a problem with my fridge. It only works on 120V

When I plug it on 12V the compressor won't start. The green light comes on.
The compressor makes a little woomph when i turn it on for about .05 second but that's it. It seems like it does not get enough juice.
It works perfectly fine using the 120V cord.

Does anyone have an idea on what could be wrong? Is there a place I can take it in the Bay Area? Anything else I could check?

Could it be the special fuse inside the cord? The 10V fuse at the fridge is fine.

Worst case I could use is using a 12V to 120V external converter but it's not as much fun.

thanks
 

Steve Curren

Explorer
Don't know if it's your problem but there is a fuse in the 12 volt plug. Unscrew the cap and check it out. I think it's something else if the light comes on.
Good luck.
 

Tucson T4R

Expedition Leader
My Waeco started throwing error codes on my last trip. When I checked on the code it indicated the low input power (12V). If I switched to 120VAC, the fridge worked perfectly. My problem turned out to be the 12V plug didn't have a good connection. I replaced the plug with a terminal block and made a new cord with crimped on eyelets on the end. Now the fridge is hard wired to the 12V power and works perfectly.

I don't know if this applies to Engels but the Waeco manual says they see this all the time and if it works on AC but fails on 12VDC, most of the time it's low voltage problem on the 12VDC supply side and not the fridge it self.
 

cruiseroutfit

Well-known member
Start with the easiest and that replacing your thermal fuse in the chord. If you don't have a spare, just use a 10 amp fuse for the test, if in fact that is the issue order yourself a couple Engel thermal fuses.
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
thanks - I did not know you could replace the thermal fuse with a normal 10V one. I will try that first.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Christian

If you are still having problems call Engel and speak with Paul. He is very knowledgeable, good at troubleshooting, and field repairs.
 

cruiseroutfit

Well-known member
2aroundtheworld said:
thanks - I did not know you could replace the thermal fuse with a normal 10V one. I will try that first.

I wouldn't recommend using a normal fuse for anything but testing. You can obviously test the thermal fuse with an ohmmeter of voltmeter at the end of the cord, but I've had fuses that show OK under a minimal load, but fail under load.
 

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
I have been having similar issues. Minimal cooling while on 12v.

I spoke to Paul at Engel last week and he recommended plugging into 120v to test if the unit works properly or not. Sure enough on 120v it frosted up and got cold enough to make ice!

Paul suggested that if it works on 120v but not on 12v there is an issue with the 12v power supply. I would look at the battery or the connection.

In my case I have gotten a new battery because I need it and hope to do a dual battery soon, and the next step is to make a more solid connection rather than the OEM cig lighter.

Brian
 

Tucson T4R

Expedition Leader
One other nice benefit to using a terminal block for hardwired connection is the terminal block gives you easy access to monitor the voltage while running the fridge. When it cycles on, I can see the no load power drop from about 13.2 VDC to around 12.4 VDC. This verifies you are well within tolerances when the fridge is drawing current. With poor connections, the fridge was probably seeing the voltage drop below the minimum required to keep it happy.
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Issue resolved.

just a quick update on this issue for future reference

As other people suggested, I ordered a new 12V power cord from S.E. and it solved the issue.

Thank you very much!!!
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:archaeolo Glad you got that one fixed, but

This kinda opens up some more reasons, for the 12v DC failure

When I set up the tongue of my trailer, to carry the ENGEL, I installed an EXTERNAL DC PWR PLUG and when plugged in my ENGEL wouldn't work on 12v DC, but would on 120v

So, if ANYBODY reads this and is setting up the wiring, for a remote 12v DC PWR PLUG

--------CHECK THE CENTER (+) CONTACT inside the NEW recpt, some external plugs have a 1/2 in/long INSULATED -OFF CENTER arm to hold the cord plug center, (male) contact (+) in alignment

The ENGEL 12v DC PWR PLUG has a 1/4" diameter Positive contact(+) and WON'T MAKE CONTACT, inside the remote PWR PLUG RECEPTABLE

So if you have trouble with your 12v DC---CHECKTHATOUT

:safari-rig: :safari-rig: JIMBO
 

FlyingWen

Explorer
2aroundtheworld said:
just a quick update on this issue for future reference

As other people suggested, I ordered a new 12V power cord from S.E. and it solved the issue.

Thank you very much!!!

Glad the power cord fixed your problems. If you continue to have issue, contact Engel USA as mentioned earlier. They will take care of you!
 

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