The newer versions are much easier to deal with than the older versions. Backing up is probably on you and your trailer more so than the hitch
I always connect/disconnect by myself and I've taught my wife my methods and she can do it as well. FWIW, we have a tongue jack with a wheel and the Max Coupler is inserted into a 2" receiver hitch on the tongue of the trailer. I came up with my methods using the earlier versions of the couplers but they work really well on the newer ones too. The wheel is a heavy duty caster that I welded to the foot of the jack. I use a hitch pin like this:
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/45805
Here's how we disconnect: Park and hop out of the tow vehicle. Chock the trailer wheels, both sides front and back. Crank the tongue jack down until the wheel touches the ground, then slowly continue cranking while watching the Max Coupler at the trailer receiver (not the tow vehicle receiver). You'll be able to see when it is unloaded as there will be slight downward movement of the Max Coupler in relation to the receiver. You should be able to easily rotate the pin for the coupler at this point. Sometimes I have to move the trailer back and forth a little by pushing/pulling on the tongue jack, but this isn't common when disconnecting. Once the pin is pulled, crank down a bit more on the tongue jack to clear the vehicle side of the coupler. Disconnect the chains and electrical, then drive the tow vehicle away.
Here's how we connect: Stow all stabilizers for the trailer, you want the trailer on its wheels and tongue jack only. Crank the tongue jack to raise the tongue a bit higher than the vehicle side of the coupler. Back the vehicle up to get the vehicle side under the coupler. Backup cameras help immensely with this, so does marking where the rear wheels were when you disconnected. It's helpful if you can get the vehicle side directly under the trailer side but within a few inches works too. For me, it's easier to compensate for side/side and too close than it is for too far away. I lower the trailer side of the hitch until it's juuuuust above the vehicle side, then make any side/side adjustments. Once I've got things lined up side/side, I lower a little bit more to get the trailer side to slide into the vehicle side. At this point, don't worry too much about fore/aft alignment, focus on the getting the red bushings into the vehicle side yoke. I move things side/side by pushing or pulling on the tongue jack as I don't have to lean over like I would to push on the trailer tongue. Once you've got the red bushing started into the you can continue lowering down until you are able to line up the hitch pin holes vertically. You may still be slightly forward or aft, but that's ok at this point, just try to get lined up vertically. Once your height is right, take a look to see if the trailer needs to go forward or aft. I prefer to have the trailer slightly too close as I can more easily push the trailer while trying to slide the pin in vs trying to pull the trailer. I'll push using the tongue jack. It also helps if you can rotate the pin (hence the style that I linked to above). Once the pin is through and you've got your safety in (clip or pin), stow the tongue jack, hook up the chains and electrical and pull your trailer wheel chocks.
Tips:
* if using a backup camera, paint the forward facing part of the coupler on the trailer end a bright, unnatural color to help see it.
* Before disconnecting the tow vehicle, it can be helpful to put something on the ground under the back wheels of the tow vehicle to act as a marker for where the wheels were.
* Most trailers are easier to push than they are to pull, so backing up slightly too close might be easier than slightly too far