Anyone know how to fix the EBrake spring on a 1997 E350 EBrake pedal?

[Bikersmurf]

I've got a 97 Ford E350 ambulance. The EBrake is a push on, and push to release pedal.

After its pushed released, it doesn't return all the way to the top. In order to reset the pedal so that it'll stay on, you need to lift the pedal manually to the top. Not a big deal... Except, the daytime running lights don't stay on if it's not lifted up.

Seems like a simple fix. Called the jobber, dealer only part. Called the dealer. Can't just buy the return spring, you have to buy the complete EBrake pedal assembly. So how how much I ask? It's NLA.

Now I know there's a great wealth of knowledge here...
Does anyone know of a fix?
Can I buy parts to fix my pedal assembly?
Will an older/newer assembly that is availible work?
What years of EBrake pedals will work if I buy used?

I know, if I had unlimited time, I could figure this out on my own... However, I'm hoping that someone knows the answer(s) and I can spend the limited time I do have on the "camper" conversion of this Ambo.

Thanks!

 

[Shocker]

Ya know, I would just try and lube up the mechanism. It sounds like the spring is doing it's job, just not as well as before. Cleaning the mechanics and lube them up with a good dry lube might fix the issue with just a bit of work.

 

[flightcancled]

After looking at photos I would agree it probably wants a blast of compressed air and a good soak in lubricant. Dirt and debris could settle inside the mech easily.

 

[flightcancled]

You've had a bunch of weird issues with your rig haven't you? I think you owe us a build thread!

 

[Bikersmurf]

I suppose... Problem with my build thread would be it'd be Annother long term build like my 20 year build for my Fj40. I'll start one... Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the Alternator replacement nightmare or the Fuel bowl rebuild headache.

It'll need more than lube, I believe... If I lift it all the way up, if flops down again. That last 1/4-1/2" turns the daytime running lights on and off.

 

[flightcancled]

Bypass the switch? I never found myself in need of that feature anyway.

 

[Bikersmurf]

Should their be a return spring?

I had a closer look at the pedal assembly, and there is no return spring. Should there be one or is it only returned by the brake cable?

I also found the brake cables aren't moving freely... I'm need to give them some TLC. One cable isn't fully releasing... At this time the brake isn't dragging, but it needs work.

 

[Bikersmurf]

No need to bypass... They just don't come on at this time.

 

[hobietony]

I have the complete pedal assembly, with cable back to the ball-and-socket disconnect. I also have the cables to the back axle, if you are desperate - trying to sell the whole axle assembly, no bites yet.

When I went to a dana 80, I lost the cable actuated e-brake at the axle, so I went to a lever-lock on the brake line. don't need the hard parts anymore. '97 ambo, DRW, but the same 138 wheelbase as you. Tell me what they are worth to you, and I'll send 'em.

T

 

[hobietony]

And, the springs in the brakes should return the pedal AFAIK- may be due to corrosion/crap in the cables and housings, like you found

 

[Bikersmurf]

When I was inspecting the rear brakes, the rims and drums were caked in mud. I suspect the PO sunk the truck in a mud pit at some time. Probably full of shmag.

I'll have to measure the lines, but it looks like it might only be $30... But knowing my luck it'll be the $74 one.

Hobietony, thanks for the offer, I'll keep it mind. Often shipping is the deal breaker.

It's looking more and more like there is nothing wrong with the pedal. The problem appears to be two sticky cables. Is there a recommended lube or should they be dry?

 

[Shocker]

I would try a dry graphite for the cables.