Anyone using the Suaoki G500 to power a fridge?

[SBSYNCRO]

I've been poking around considering various options for powering my Dometic CFX50 fridge, and I think I want to go with one of these portable "generator" type units that have everything built in. My plan is to keep the unit plugged into the IGN-powered 12v, and then plug the fridge into the portable "generator" (I hate that term since its not actually making power). This would allow the fridge to run off the 500wh battery for 24 hours fairly easily then recharge the unit and provide pass-through power to the fridge while underway. I normally move camp or drive every day, so this should work well for me.

Up to this point I've been looking at the Jackery 500 because its the only one I found with a regulated 12v output (e.g. voltage doesn't drop and cause the fridge to shut down when the battery gets low). But the input charging is limited to 3A even on the solar side, so it recharges VERY slowly. I noticed that not only does the Suaoki have regulated 12v output, but it also charges at 10 amps (3x as fast as the Jackery) AND has Anserson power pole connectors built in (no goofy 8mm round plugs). On top of that, it is on sale right now on Amazon for only $389 which is a screaming deal for a 500wh unit like this.

My only concern is that it has an automatic shut-off after 10 minutes of inactivity, and I know that (especially in winter time) the Dometic can idle longer than that. I worry about the power supply shutting down while the fridge is idling, and then the fridge shuts down completely and manual intervention is required (potentially every ten minutes!).

Anyone using one of these to power a fridge?

 

[john61ct]

Even a pair of GCs, 200+Ah at 12V would be marginal capacity for off-grid use unless you were running ICE power sources daily, or had 400+W of panels and reliable insolation conditions.

Those portable powerpaks

(please don't buy into scammy marketeering co-opting "generator")

are grossly overpriced and just plain too small for such usage.

 

[shade]

Even a pair of GCs, 200+Ah at 12V would be marginal capacity for off-grid use unless you were running ICE power sources daily, or had 400+W of panels and reliable insolation conditions.

Those portable powerpaks

(please don't buy into scammy marketeering co-opting "generator")

are grossly overpriced and just plain too small for such usage.

Agreed.

Even if the +$400 price of the Jackery didn't scare someone off, the 40Ah capacity wouldn't be all that great for a fridge unless it was getting a daily charge. Even then, deeply discharging it regularly wouldn't be great for battery life. I'd also check on the cost and difficulty of replacing the battery.

 

[SBSYNCRO]

The batteries in these units aren't replaceable, and are good for about 500 discharge/recharge cycles (to zero and back). They are basically stuffed full of 18650 cells.

But educate me please, because either I'm misunderstanding or I have misread during my research.... First of all, I dont' want to power ANYTHING else but a Dometic CFX50. My understanding based on all the reading I've done is that these typically draw about 0.7 amps per hour at 75º ambient temp. A bit less if its colder, and more if its hotter. (I don't plan to run it as a freezer). Unless my math is off, that comes to about 13 ah for an 18 hour overnight period (or about 30% of its capacity) after which time I will charge it (either with 200w solar if stationary or by driving for several hours).

With a 100ah AGM battery you only get about 40 ah of usable power, which is essentially the same with this lithium chemistry in a 500wh battery like this, but these units weigh 15 pounds as opposed to ~45 lbs for a 100ah AGM battery and are a lot smaller.

Seems like a lot of advantages over a 100ah AGM battery. Yes, this is 2x the price of an AGM battery, but also includes all the BMS, MPP solar controller, input and out put connections, etc. That all costs money (and wouldn't' be as portable) in a DIY system.

Have either of you tried powering a medium (50l) 12v fridge off one of these lithium battery systems and have some empirical information to share? If you have a solution for something that is SMALL, PORTABLE and LIGHTWEIGHT and will power a CFX50 for about 18 hours and then recharge quickly via either a pair of 100w solar panels or a 12v cigarete lighter plug (or hardwired) please let me know! Thats really what I'm after. I do not want a massive heavy battery bank so that I can power induction stoves or microwave ovens, coffee grinders, power tools, etc. I also don't want to be breaking axles and tearing up drive train components because my overland rig is too heavy. ;-)

Interesting to see on this webpage it appears this SUAOKI thing outputs 11.1V "With the high-capacity of 500Wh (11.1V, 45,900mAh/ /3.7V 137,700mAh), SUAOKI G500 has a much larger capacity than conventional power stations." https://www.suaoki.com/suaoki-g500-...tor-backup-power/sk_1826266_027709487289.html
Might wonder if a Legitimate ExPo guys refrigerator would operate at that voltage ?

Yea, the 11.1 volt number has me a bit confused, since they claim it has a "regulated 12v output". WIthout regulated output on the 12v DC side, these things are useless for powering a fridge, I agree with you. The low voltage cutoff would trigger and shut down the fridge as the battery pack drained down past maybe 25% or so.

 

[john61ct]

Most are designed to last say 200-300 cycles then toss and buy new, no user replaceable battery.

In hot weather, 40Ah won't even be enough for 24hrs for many fridges

def not when set to freezer mode.

For $400 you can get 2pr GCs over 5000 Wh, taken care of can last well over 5yrs.

And powering laptops, lights fans etc all included too.

 

[SBSYNCRO]

For $400 you can get 2pr GCs over 5000 Wh, taken care of can last well over 5yrs.

And powering laptops, lights fans etc all included too.

GC's? golf cart batteries? Then I have to add solar controller and a charger. And the performance for the weight/size is not anywhere near as good as lithium chemistry - I'm really trying to solve for size, weight, and portability. I'd consider a "permanent" installation of two smaller 6v AGM batteries, but to get the same performance (roughtly 500 wh) It would be 2x the size and weight of the lithium based solutions, it seems....

 

[john61ct]

I dont' want to power ANYTHING else but a Dometic CFX50.

In most off-grid setups under 1000W of panels, that would be 80+% of the Ah per day draw anyway.

Amps per hour is not a thing, need Ah per 24hrs.

Remember your energy source needs to recharge the bank and keep powering the load at the same time.

200W solar will only be enough in ideal conditions, and maybe not even then when ambient vs the setpoint is a wide delta.

The duty cycle varies very widely, as does the weather.

Best to design for worst case, need a three day buffer.

Or just give it a try and see, buy another or three if needed, your rig.

But driving to charge is silly, get a Honda genset would be better.

AGM at 100Ah would be a lot more expensive than the Duracell GCs, and not as durable either.

They use DC DC conversion to get to/from 12V, internally 3S LI cells at 3.6V nominal.

Very easy to start an unquenchable fire with those BTW, do not use anymore once you can tell getting weaker. I doubt 500 cycles especially if using the capacity to a low average DoD.

 

[john61ct]

Sorry, you really need to carry the bank around, not installing in place?

Then yes go lithium, but LFP chemistry for safety and 10x the longevity, and

DIY much better and cheaper than a canned powerpak.

4S at say 100-150Ah should be enough, Maybe $800 for just the cells delivered.

 

[SBSYNCRO]

In most off-grid setups under 1000W of panels, that would be 80+% of the Ah per day draw anyway.

Amps per hour is not a thing, need Ah per 24hrs.

Remember your energy source needs to recharge the bank and keep powering the load at the same time.

200W solar will only be enough in ideal conditions, and maybe not even then when ambient vs the setpoint is a wide delta.

The duty cycle varies very widely, as does the weather.

Best to design for worst case, need a three day buffer.

Or just give it a try and see, buy another or three if needed, your rig.

Thank you - good info. Seems to contradict some anecdotal things I've seen/heard, but of course its always better to be conservative.

But driving to charge is silly, get a Honda genset would be better.

I already drive every day. I either change camp, or leave camp in the Jeep to scout all day driving around an area. Trying to avoid gas generators.

AGM at 100Ah would be a lot more expensive than the Duracell GCs, and not as durable either.

They use DC DC conversion to get to/from 12V, internally 3S LI cells at 3.6V nominal.

I'm trying to parse this, but I don't understand. Can you explain a bit more? By "GC" are you referring to something like this:

Duracell Golf Car Battery, Group Size GC2 - Sam's Club

Buy Duracell Golf Car Battery, Group Size GC2 : Golf Cart Batteries at SamsClub.com

www.samsclub.com

Very easy to start an unquenchable fire with those BTW, do not use anymore once you can tell getting weaker. I doubt 500 cycles especially if using the capacity to a low average DoD.

Are you referring to the "GC" (which I assume means "golf cart?) or the Suaoki type batteries?

Sorry, you really need to carry the bank around, not installing in place?

Then yes go lithium, but LFP chemistry for safety and 10x the longevity, and

DIY much better and cheaper than a canned powerpak.

4S at say 100-150Ah should be enough, Maybe $800 for just the cells delivered.

Yes, hoping to have something I can easily move from vehicle to vehicle. And I agree, a LiFePo system would be really nice - I've looked into building a 100ah LiFePo system, but once I add the BMS, MPP controller, overcharge protection, thermal protection, etc etc etc, it gets way up over $1,000 and its a big ugly plastic box stuffed full of circuit boards and hot melt glue. Not something I want to rely on bouncing around in the back of the Jeep, I think. Im figuring something like the Suaoki (or GoalZero type device) will get me a couple of years and by then the price of LiFePo stuff will have come down considerably and be more mature.

 

[john61ct]

I already drive every day. I either change camp, or leave camp in the Jeep to scout all day driving around an area.

Well if that is always the case, you have zero need for any solar.

And forget lead, unless that is 4+ hours a day or getting solar

Optimize your alternator charging, getting 50-100Ah actually into a bank from every hour of driving, is basically unlimited power in a usual off grid context.

Yes those Duracell GCs are the best battery value on the planet.

But will only accept average say 30A input at best, much lower after 80% SoC, any lead will take **many** hours a day to get back to full.

With LFP you don't need to worry, more healthy if you keep below 90% Full anyway.

 

[john61ct]

The LI chemistries **other than LFP** are very susceptible to thermal runaway (boom bad).

And very short lifespan.

Go with LFP.

 

[john61ct]

Prices will likely not be coming down on good cells.

On these rip-off powerpak "systems", sure I'd hope so, so much profit built in.

But yes a grand is realistic, but at least DIY you get the capacity you need, and choose quality components that are actually sized to suit your needs.

 

[john61ct]

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[john61ct]

>> Very easy to start an unquenchable fire with those BTW, do not use anymore once you can tell getting weaker. I doubt 500 cycles especially if using the capacity to a low average DoD.

>> They use DC DC conversion to get to/from 12V, internally 3S LI cells at 3.6V nominal.

Those are both wrt the powerpack.

LI cells other than LFP are 3.65V nominal, can't do 12V direct

LFP is 3.2V so 4S is perfect, no current-limiting conversion circuitry needed in between.

 

[Wheelman55]

OP. I hope this helps. You will need more battery. You’ll need a robust charging system in the vehicle. I suggest using a folding solar panel with charger while camping.

I power two ARB fridges with one LiFeP04 12 volt, 100ah battery in basecamp. In the vehicle I use one of the fridges. I charge with solar panels (180 watt folding with PWM charger) in basecamp and a solid state dual battery charger in the vehicles. Regarding batteries...I’ve used AGM, FLA and now LiFeP04. I greatly prefer the LiFeP04.

Things to be aware of:

1. My fridges run for roughly 15 minutes straight each hour. So will your’s
2. The two fridges combined use approx 20ah overnight...so figure 40ah for a full day (1 fridge then would use approx 20ah a day).
3. This Is in cool weather with the fridges out of the sun. In hot weather in a hot vehicle you might use more amp hours.
4. On a clear day, the solar panels charge the battery up before noon. This is with the panels pointed DIRECTLY at the sun. On an overcast day the battery does not get to full charge using the solar panels.
5. In the vehicle, using one fridge, it takes approx 4 hours of driving at highway speed to recharge the batteries.
   

You can easily make your own “generator”, using a battery, a plastic battery box and attaching charging ports to the box.