Anyone using the Suaoki G500 to power a fridge?

[john61ct]

In either case strap down securely, even if only 50lbs not safe bouncing.

 

[SBSYNCRO]

One of the reasons I'm shying away from lead acid batteries is due to the requirement for running a high amperage charging circuit from the alternator, which then really necessitates something like an ACR to separate the "house" battery from the starting battery. I've done a few of those systems on boats, and they work very well. But again - space and weight are a major concern for me, so I'm, trying to avoid that route. Perhaps I bite the bullet and build myself a LiFePo system... <sigh>

These cells look nice and are $120 each, so $480 for a 100ah battery

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But then I have to come up with a BMS, MPPT controller, 12v step-up converter/regulator (?), etc and most importantly, a nice case that fits everything perfectly and has a spiffy digital readout and ports to connect to the outside world...

 

[shade]

its a big ugly plastic box stuffed full of circuit boards and hot melt glue.

Don't be so sure an off-the-shelf battery pack isn't basically the same.

John posted just a few of the DIY battery pack projects found on ExPo.
Some look every bit as good as a commercial product, and are well made.
If you're willing to put in the time and have a little skill, it's worth considering.

 

[rajacat]

I have the Suaoki G500. I also have a clone of the Suaoki 400. I have used the 400 on several week long trips and it easily kept my refrigerator charged overnight. I was moving often so I simply kept the 400 plugged in to my starter battery via cigarette lighter plug. I also have 200W of solar panels. When there was sun, I connected one panel to the 400. I keep one movable and flexible 100W panel in reserve to use in certain locations to give it more optimum angle to the sun. I can simply establish the place for the panel and then move the 12 lb. battery close to it.
In general, I'm happy with the arrangement but I wanted more reserve power thus I purchased the G500. I haven't tested this setup yet but I feel that it will provide all the power needed under most conditions. I'd like to keep the movable panel but add another permanently mounted 100W unit. One battery will stay in the cab and the other will always be connected to the 200W on the roof. I keep the refrig. in the cab where I either charge it off the truck or use the portable panel. I've never had a problem with the 400 timing out. I still don't have enough experience with the G500 to determine if it times out.

This whole setup eliminates a lot of complications and I feel it suits my minimalist style. I like not having to setup an electrical panel, solar controllers, USB, etc. I will charge and/or power all my camper lights directly off the G500 and thus eliminate a lot of wiring. The only time I'll be drawing from my truck starter battery is when the engine is running. I can easily move the lithium batteries around and substitute one for the other if needed. I'm OK with the lower cycling life(compared to LiPo) because the batteries will still charge after the 500 or whatever time life and after 500 cycles if the lower capacity isn't enough I'll simply buy one more. I've dealt with heavy golf cart batteries with the heavy cables and all the complications before on boats. I decided to go simple and light with my truck. It's nice to have your electrical setup isolated from the truck system.

 

[john61ct]

A good DCDC charger with the right adjustments, like Sterling or maybe Kisae, boom you're done no ACR.

Personally I think those "Fortune" are unproven, CALB Winston Sinopoly GBS more likely to give you decades of solid service.

But YES GOOD PRICE, and someone's got to try them and report back

The storage part is actually trivial, compared to balancing the Ah-in and Ah-out while off grid.

You have the ability to get virtually **unlimited** input practically free

no need for solar panels, no need for genset, that's **huge** !!

Stop whingeing

8-D

 

[john61ct]

And yes, with that driving around all day every day, 40Ah is enough

Long as that is what you're doing and don't stop


in fact a fatter start batt, e.g. G31 Odyssey PC-2150 will likely do the trick


And carry a LI jumpstarter kept fully charged in the glovebox

 

[SBSYNCRO]

And carry a LI jumpstarter kept fully charged in the glovebox

That got added to my kit a few years ago. Every time I use it I’m just amazed. I jump started a freaking diesel tractor one day with it and the guy was thinking “wait..whaaaat?” As he saw me pull it out of its case to help him.


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[john61ct]

My kids were using it for their screen gadgets, given Murphy had to put a stop to that

 

[SBSYNCRO]

I have the Suaoki G500. I also have a clone of the Suaoki 400. I have used the 400 on several week long trips and it easily kept my refrigerator charged overnight. I was moving often so I simply kept the 400 plugged in to my starter battery via cigarette lighter plug. I also have 200W of solar panels. When there was sun, I connected one panel to the 400. I keep one movable and flexible 100W panel in reserve to use in certain locations to give it more optimum angle to the sun. I can simply establish the place for the panel and then move the 12 lb. battery close to it.
In general, I'm happy with the arrangement but I wanted more reserve power thus I purchased the G500. I haven't tested this setup yet but I feel that it will provide all the power needed under most conditions. I'd like to keep the movable panel but add another permanently mounted 100W unit. One battery will stay in the cab and the other will always be connected to the 200W on the roof. I keep the refrig. in the cab where I either charge it off the truck or use the portable panel. I've never had a problem with the 400 timing out. I still don't have enough experience with the G500 to determine if it times out.

This whole setup eliminates a lot of complications and I feel it suits my minimalist style. I like not having to setup an electrical panel, solar controllers, USB, etc. I will charge and/or power all my camper lights directly off the G500 and thus eliminate a lot of wiring. The only time I'll be drawing from my truck starter battery is when the engine is running. I can easily move the lithium batteries around and substitute one for the other if needed. I'm OK with the lower cycling life(compared to LiPo) because the batteries will still charge after the 500 or whatever time life and after 500 cycles if the lower capacity isn't enough I'll simply buy one more. I've dealt with heavy golf cart batteries with the heavy cables and all the complications before on boats. I decided to go simple and light with my truck. It's nice to have your electrical setup isolated from the truck system.

Thanks for the feedback on your first hand experience. It seems like your perspective and requirements are very similar to mine.

Good to hear that the 400 has not gone into auto shutoff mode. For $389 I might take a chance on that 500 version.


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[luthj]

If I were making a lightweight fridge powering system, with no solar, here would be my approach.

Buy or build a 100AH LFP pack. DIY would be around 500$, off the shelf 700-900$. There are a couple discussions in this forum, and some youtube how-tos. This will have a basic BMS (disconnect and cell balancing). From there get an 100A rated relay attached to the vehicles charging system (at a high current point). Add a fuse block, and volt meter for monitoring.

At this point you have a battery system which does not suffer from partial charge damage like lead. It will easily accept 30-50A of charge. This will allow your primary charge source to be the alternator. Add a disconnect switch for storage.

 

[shade]

If I were making a lightweight fridge powering system, with no solar, here would be my approach.

Buy or build a 100AH LFP pack. DIY would be around 500$, off the shelf 700-900$. There are a couple discussions in this forum, and some youtube how-tos. This will have a basic BMS (disconnect and cell balancing). From there get an 100A rated relay attached to the vehicles charging system (at a high current point). Add a fuse block, and volt meter for monitoring.

At this point you have a battery system which does not suffer from partial charge damage like lead. It will easily accept 30-50A of charge. This will allow your primary charge source to be the alternator. Add a disconnect switch for storage.

Depending on the alternator, I think it may need something to limit the current, but that's it.

 

[SBSYNCRO]

Thanks guys. Long term I do believe I will build a small portable LiFePO based system around 100ah. For now as a "quick & dirty" solution I picked up a Suaoki G500 (it was $100 off and at $389 its not a terribly painful purchase). Once I build the LiFePo system, this one will do duty around the house to power our tankless water heater when the power goes out, and other lightweight/intermittent duties like that.

I appreciate all the knowledge shared in this thread! I'll report back to this thread on my results with the Dometic CFX50 and the Suaoki G500 after it has some field time.

 

[john61ct]

It won't heat much water, but if you mean the spark & pump, for a propane instant HWS sure.

 

[SBSYNCRO]

It won't heat much water, but if you mean the spark & pump, for a propane instant HWS sure.

Correct. Just for running the controller, fan, & spark. I've run it for 6+ hours from a computer UPS with less capacity, so I think this will be great for the purpose.

 

[SBSYNCRO]

I've had the Suaoki for a couple of weeks now, and I have to say that so far I am very impressed. The build quality is excellent, and has a regulated 12v output (perfect for fridges) via the cigarette lighter plug. I have not run the fridge on it yet (its in storage until next weekend) but I have used it for recharging cordless tool batteries, charging phones, and running some lights while working on projects around the house for the last couple of weekends. Yesterday it was finally depleted to about 25% and I hooked it up to a 100w HQST solar panel and it charged in 3 hours at a rate over 70 watts for most of the time, even in relatively weak morning winter sun (9:30 am to 12:30 pm). I'll post another report on it when I get some time with the fridge. My plan is to power the fridge off the car's 12v outlet while in transit, and then swap to the Suaoki + solar panel while camped. The unit will power the 12v receptacle while charging - I tested it with a 35 watt load on the receptacle and a 70 watt solar input and the unit gained charge. I'm guessing that the Dometic fridge will average about 24 watts while cycling.

For $389 on Amazon (with auto-coupon), this battery pack appears to be a very good value. My only complaint so far is that I wish it had a % meter for the battery rather than a 5-level icon. The regulated 12v output and MPPT solar controller along with a very (VERY) quiet 300w inverter make it perfect for my application. Now my challenge is to find a suitable tie-down for it to keep it from sliding around. Its roughly the size of a Group 65 battery, but I have not been able to find a good tie-down that won't require tools to remove the unit.