ARB Elements need help

[FJR Colorado]

the fact that it runs for a period then quits still potentially points to a loose connection that builds heat then shorts out when hot enough. Can you change DC cords and see if you get similar results?

Tried that. Will look again for something loose.

Thanks again.

One thing I will say is that all connectors seem top quality and some are going to be a huge pain to get off cleanly.

 

[WOODY2]

Tried that. Will look again for something loose.

Thanks again.

One thing I will say is that all connectors seem top quality and some are going to be a huge pain to get off cleanly.

Hardwired to properly sized wire? There has to be an answer !?

 

[john61ct]

Stuff comes loose on the PCBs too.

Look for full replacement boards as well from third parties.

Or sell the unit on to a tinkerer.

Note many cheap models don't last 5 years, but ARB sure should.

 

[WOODY2]

Tried that. Will look again for something loose.

Thanks again.

One thing I will say is that all connectors seem top quality and some are going to be a huge pain to get off cleanly.

Hope this helps, I think your voltage cutoff is set to high?

 

[shade]

It was/is a really weird problem. It will start running on 12 v and appear fine. Then, just quit and show a fault.

What was the fault code?

 

[WOODY2]

What was the fault code?

I think we are getting close to the answer?

 

[shade]

I think we are getting close to the answer?

Maybe. Of the flaky 12V plugs on the market, ARB's isn't the worst, but it's still a weak design.
Between the cord, fuse, and whatever else is in the way of the battery, voltage drop could do it.

Regardless, if the fridge is trying to indicate what's amiss, that's a good place to start.

 

[67cj5]

Maybe. Of the flaky 12V plugs on the market, ARB's isn't the worst, but it's still a weak design.
Between the cord, fuse, and whatever else is in the way of the battery, voltage drop could do it.

Regardless, if the fridge is trying to indicate what's amiss, that's a good place to start.

The ARB 2 Pin plug is a great design, But I would not try and run the fridge using the lead with the normal Cigar attachment attached, but the 2 pin is awesome,

 

[shade]

The ARB 2 Pin plug is a great design, But I would not try and run the fridge using the lead with the normal Cigar attachment attached, but the 2 pin is awesome,

I was referring to the cigarette lighter / 12V power point plug.

 

[67cj5]

I was referring to the cigarette lighter / 12V power point plug.

Yeah mate I thought you were they are real pain, any vibration or the slightest movement and the thing shuts down, $1000+ Fridge and warm Beer, Not my Idea of heaven. ?

 

[FJR Colorado]

Hope this helps, I think your voltage cutoff is set to high?
View attachment 579463

Thanks for thinking of me but I am quite familiar with that setting and that is definitely not the issue.

 

[FJR Colorado]

What was the fault code?

No code. Just quit, displayed no temp, interior light goes out, red light flashes. Never got an "Err1" or anything like that.

 

[FJR Colorado]

Yeah mate I thought you were they are real pain, any vibration or the slightest movement and the thing shuts down, $1000+ Fridge and warm Beer, Not my Idea of heaven. ?

Yes, had the dedicated ARB plug thingy. Not the cig plug. Same behavior either way.

 

[WOODY2]

Here's another thread that may let you know you're not all alone. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/arb-37l-fridge-help.174408/ The reality of the issue is that the unit actually runs on 12 volts regardless of whether you apply 12v or 120v, an onboard transformer busts the 120v down to 12v. Have you tried using a totally different 12v power source to see if issue repeats?

 

[FJR Colorado]

Here's another thread that may let you know you're not all alone. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/arb-37l-fridge-help.174408/ The reality of the issue is that the unit actually runs on 12 volts regardless of whether you apply 12v or 120v, an onboard transformer busts the 120v down to 12v. Have you tried using a totally different 12v power source to see if issue repeats?

Oh, yeah. Tried it all.

It's torn apart now and a main control board is ordered. We shall see.

Any advice out there on removing all those cables from the board? What's the magic tool?