ARB fridge stopped working off battery???

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Cant really see in the picture, is that the female half of the plug inside the arb socket? Melted? You must have had a high resistance connection (bad crimp or solder) causing heat.

I would cut that off and just hard wire the thing with no plug, that is what I’ve always done in the past.
 

WOODY2

Adventurer
I think i have tracked it to the well. View attachment 651778
That piece can be replaced easily. Note the wires are spade connectors on the back and perhaps you have a loose or bad spade connection.
 

67cj5

Man On a Mission
You would be better off running heavier wires and removing the ARB wiring kit,

The 4x4 Company who sold me my ARB fridges told me to forget the Kit and go up 2 steps in Wire Size, and use the ARB 2 pin Sockets.
 

67cj5

Man On a Mission
I can understand that but it has worked perfectly for years. That what is strange.
Yes it might have but ARB's wiring loom is right on the bare edge when it comes to the Current Supplied Vs the Current Needed, Where as 8AWG would be the better option.

The reason my 4x4 parts Dealer told me to swap out the wiring to aheavier guage is because he has had to replace the ARB wiring so many times, He told me he could sell me the Kit but is just is not worth the hassle because it will fail. which is pretty honest of him really because he just Done Him Self out of $85.00.

Another thing is if your wiring is droping out like this is over time that is going to cause damage to your fridge motor burning it out and then that is really going to Cost you,

Depending on which model Fridge you have they can Draw as much as 7Ah+ upon Startup. And in a perfect World the ARB wiring works But in the Real world it is grossly under sized. This time you were lucky because it could of burnt out your Fridge, But you do what ever you think is best,

Good Luck.
 

TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
Yes I thought I had it worked out last night as I got the Fridge to power up but now it wont again. So I'm Going to pull the whole wire loom out and just run some 8AWG. I may ground it to the chassis in back instead of the battery too.
 

67cj5

Man On a Mission
Yes I thought I had it worked out last night as I got the Fridge to power up but now it wont again. So I'm Going to pull the whole wire loom out and just run some 8AWG. I may ground it to the chassis in back instead of the battery too.
I drove my self nuts trying to find the problem, thing was although having 12v at the socket in the back is not enough because once the fridge starts running the fridge can drop the battery voltage down by as much as 0,4v under lode so you end up with 11.6v or less then the battery protection kicks in and the fridge shuts off and won't power up until the fridge see's 12.8v coming out the socket So the fridge will never turn On again,

First off, Check the voltage at the socket with the existing wiring and when you replace it with the 8AWG recheck the Voltage, and I think you will be surprized how much more voltage you have at the socket,

Good luck and let us know how it works out, (y)
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Yes I thought I had it worked out last night as I got the Fridge to power up but now it wont again. So I'm Going to pull the whole wire loom out and just run some 8AWG. I may ground it to the chassis in back instead of the battery too.

I would run ground back to battery for sure. In my JK I ran a pair of 6awg from battery to a blue sea fuse panel with ground terminals in the back, then ran the arb fridge cord directly to the panel, no plug. It has worked really well over the years (maybe 6 now? Almost 7?).

In my wife’s Toyota I ran the ARB wiring kit and it was a colossal waste of money, beginning with it actually being smaller than commonly advertised, including too much voltage drop to run the fridge with the car off.
 

67cj5

Man On a Mission
7Ah !! Wow ! How long does start up last ?
7Ah ? That means if startup lasted one minute, thats 420A during that one minute.
No wonder the wire melted.
No, 7Ah is an hourly rating so no matter if it runs for 5 minutes or 60 minutes it is still only going to use 7Ah,, The Running Ah is around 4.6 to 4.8ish at that rate. @ 5 minutes it's going to use 0.583Ah @ 7Ah and at 4.6Ah it's only going to use 0.383Ah.
 
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Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
No. 7Ah literally means 7 amp-hours. 7 amps for 1 hour, or 1 amp for 7 hours, or some other product of "amps times hours" that equals 7.

In your initial post you meant to say " Depending on which model Fridge you have they can Draw as much as 7A+ upon Startup ", as in 7 amps at startup, not seven amp-hours. Verkstad was tongue-in-cheek pointing out that in order to consume 7AH at startup (which as you say is a very short period of time), the inrush current would have to be MASSIVE.

If a fridge really drew 7AH on startup, then you could flatten a 100AH lithium battery by simply plugging and unplugging the fridge 15 times in a row over the course of 10 minutes. Obviously, that isn't the case.
 

67cj5

Man On a Mission
No. 7Ah literally means 7 amp-hours. 7 amps for 1 hour, or 1 amp for 7 hours, or some other product of "amps times hours" that equals 7.

In your initial post you meant to say " Depending on which model Fridge you have they can Draw as much as 7A+ upon Startup ", as in 7 amps at startup, not seven amp-hours. Verkstad was tongue-in-cheek pointing out that in order to consume 7AH at startup (which as you say is a very short period of time), the inrush current would have to be MASSIVE.

If a fridge really drew 7AH on startup, then you could flatten a 100AH lithium battery by simply plugging and unplugging the fridge 15 times in a row over the course of 10 minutes. Obviously, that isn't the case.
How could it if Ah is an hourly rating, The 7Ah/ is Amps Peak which only lasts for nano seconds and if a fridge is running at between 5.5Ah to 6.5Ah and that is Amps Per Hour not per minute and not per second. because if that was the case we could never haul enough batteries to get it to run for a day.

I think we have some confussion in what I was saying.
 

Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
A lot to unpack here. AH isn't really an "hourly rating". It most definitely is NOT amps PER hour. It is AMPS TIMES HOURS.

When the compressor is running, it sinks some current, say 5Amps, but that is what engineers call an "instantaneous reading", meaning that at the instant you put a meter on the compressor, it's 5A is going from the battery to the motor. If the compressor ran 100% of the time for an hour, then it would be "consuming" 5A * 1H = 5AH from the battery. But fridge compressors don't really run 100% of the time - they cycle on and off. We can confidently state that a fridge uses X-many amps when running, but trying to put a hard number on a fridge for Amp-Hours is difficult because it depends entirely on how much of the time the compressor is actually running. (The duty cycle). If the fridge runs for 50% of the hour, then it "consumes" 2.5AH over that hour. But the duty cycle will vary all over the place depending on factors like insulation, external temperature, how many times the fridge is opened, etc.

Mostly, when people say a fridge "running between XAh to YAh", they're trying to give an average of amp-hours per hour, or an "average instantaneous Amp draw". That's a weird number, but it is meant to encapsulate that (1) not only does the compressor not run 100% of the time, but (2) the duty cycle of the compressor isn't even constant throughout the day. It runs less at night, or in cool conditions, versus when you're parked in midday sun.

ARB, for example, quotes the fridge's current draw as "0.85 amps/hour average power consumption tested at 37.4˚F cabinet temp. 78.8˚F - 87.8˚F ambient temperature range. Test duration of 66 hours and supply voltage of 12V DC "

Even this is a little bit of a weird statement because the units don't track. "amps/hour" is not a power reading (power is watts, or amps-times-volts). Once you involve time you're getting into work, (power * time), or Joules. I presume what ARB is indicating is that over 66 hours at the given temperature, 56.1 Amp-Hours were depleted from a battery. (e.g. 56.1 AH / 66H = 0.85 A. This number makes sense in terms of Amp-hours per hour.)

I understand the confusion, believe me. Part of the issue is that all the different companies are very loose with their terminology. Amp-Hours are already an imprecise number. When sizing a battery, what you really want to know is Joules, which is the total measurement of the energy in the cell. A Joule is a watt-second (one watt for one second, so 60J is a watt-hour). However, since watts are just amps * volts, and the voltage of a battery is "fixed" (i.e. 12V), then battery companies market the batteries as Amp-Hours.

Except that the voltage isn't really fixed, (volts drop as cell is depleted), and cell chemistry also dictates that capacity (Joules) suffers as the current sink goes up- which is why Amp-Hours are expressed as what they call the 20-hour rate, whereby they state that a battery will give a constant rated Amps for 20 hours), e.g. 100AH, calculated that the battery will give 5A for 20 hours. If you draw 10A, for example, you will find that you get less than 10 hours (less than 100AH).

So, you have the following environment:
  • A battery holds X Joules, except X varies by temperature (T) and the draw rate (Amps).
  • That battery has a cell voltage V, which varies over time (H), and draw rate (Amps)
  • A fridge pulls A Amps when running, but only runs D % of the time (duty cycle), which also depends on temperature (T), along with insulation and how you're using it (putting in warm beer every 20 minutes, etc.)
So while theoretically you could say that A * D * V * H = Joules-needed, and just buy battery X > Joules-needed, you can see how complicated it gets.

If you want to see what this looks like in practice, here's a test I ran by powering a fridge on a laboratory power supply for 24 hours.

This has somewhat fewer variables because the voltage was stable, the temperature was stable, etc. What you can see from the raw data though is that for most of the time (84%) the current consumed was 0 because the compressor only ran 16% of the time. During the time the compressor was running, I sampled the Amps every 15 seconds. We can calculate "Amp Hours" used during those 15 seconds by multiplying measured amps (A) * 15s (Then multiplying * 1m/60s * 1h/60m to convert from seconds to hours). That gives Amps times Hours.

As a specific example: at 17:55:16 (page 5), the fridge was pulling 4.708A. So during those 15 seconds, we estimate that the AH consumed was = 4.708 * 15 / 3600 = 0.01961667 AH. If we add up the AH measurement from all the other 15 second intervals, we get the total AH consumed. The data is all summarized on the first page, but I will point out that my measured number was an average of 0.58823 amp-hours per hour, which is not far off from what ARB quotes in their datasheet. My average is lower than their average because I conducted the test with a cooler ambient temperature, but we're in the same ballpark.
 
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67cj5

Man On a Mission
So basically you have just said what I said in my last post,

I have run 100's of Basic fridge test in laymans terms,

When a fridge starts the meter displays Wp =Watts Peak, Ap = Amps Peak, Ah used, Wh used, Running Watts and Running Amps,
 

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