Are aftermarket skids too much?

[FastGlass]

Like it says. I'm building my jeep out for overlanding....the off roading aspects being of a very mixed use nature. Up here in NE, the trails are everything from roots, rocks to mud and water (there's half a great Marley song there...
I have the Clayton long arms and cross brace going in soon, and I really like their 3 piece, full coverage skid system. But it weighs 200lbs! I know the old skids will be removed, so subtract that, and that the weight is low...but it's still another ~150#s?
For those on here that really use their builds, especially around here...the VOT crowd and such, what is everyone's thoughts on if a full, HD aftermarket skid system is even "worth it" or needed? Do most relocate their evap too? Or just run with the stock ('12+) skidded one or another aftermarket skid?

 

[SiliconTi]

I'd add engine and transfer case skids, but not bother with the fuel tank - stock is adequate.

 

[FastGlass]

I'd add engine and transfer case skids, but not bother with the fuel tank - stock is adequate.

Thanks for the reply. The gas tank skid is the heaviest of the three, I believe. Because the weight is so low, and for the piece of mind, I was thinking of just doing it. I'm just looking for as much advice as possible before settling on that route. Someone else (another forum) said that when they did their full RROR skid sys, they actually gained 2 mpg. Something about the full plated underbody cutting resistance...food for thought.

 

[rlynch356]

I am going to move the Evap canister, add on the diff covers, the AEV rear Diff skid and the Arb belly one and call it done at that point until i break something.
My Defender has less and never been an issue. In fact i just bothered with protection at all other than the Rear Diff cover (wrap around style)

 

[aristobrat]

You say all of the old skids are being removed ... do you have an option to keep them? I've got a 2010 JKUR that I've dragged over the rocks for the last five years, and as beat up as the stock gas tank and transfer case skids are, they're still doing a great job of protecting those areas.

I also run Rock Hard's oil pan/transmission/cat skid, Poison Spider's evap canister skid (2010's didn't come with any factory skid there), and an AEV rear diff skid.

In order have "taken the most abuse", I'd say it goes Rock Hard, then the gas tank skid, then the AEV diff skid. The AEV rear diff skid has the deepest gashes in it.

 

[FastGlass]

You say all of the old skids are being removed ... do you have an option to keep them? I've got a 2010 JKUR that I've dragged over the rocks for the last five years, and as beat up as the stock gas tank and transfer case skids are, they're still doing a great job of protecting those areas.

I also run Rock Hard's oil pan/transmission/cat skid, Poison Spider's evap canister skid (2010's didn't come with any factory skid there), and an AEV rear diff skid.

In order have "taken the most abuse", I'd say it goes Rock Hard, then the gas tank skid, then the AEV diff skid. The AEV rear diff skid has the deepest gashes in it.

Im running ProRocks front and back...The rear 60 is pretty damn beefy for the diff covers and housing, so barring a trip to Moab I'm calling it probably good there.
You'd have to remove the stock skids to use this system. Here's a pic of the Solidworks for the set:

The oil and tranny skids are 1/4" and the gas is 3/16ths.
These are the actual skids: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.789460477761781.1073741872.175001599207675&type=1
So in general you think the stock ones are doing fine for moderate wheeling in the rocks?

 

[FastGlass]

I am going to move the Evap canister, add on the diff covers, the AEV rear Diff skid and the Arb belly one and call it done at that point until i break something.
My Defender has less and never been an issue. In fact i just bothered with protection at all other than the Rear Diff cover (wrap around style)

Rlynch, So, you're running your setup pretty much fully armored underneath right? How much lift do you have and have you noticed anything at all for the weight penalty? I don't care about the fuel economy hit so much, more about flipping it going over larger obstacles or any sort of off camber handling issues or anything regarding heat buildup?

 

[Yuccahead]

I have not tried them but River Raider makes aluminum skid plates that weigh about 1/2 as much as stock. Looks like they are around $1500 before options.

 

[rlynch356]

The arb 5450110 is a front belly plate but not full coverage. Just the Engine and transmission you leave the stock plates installed. The ARB plate is 3mm ~1/8th inch. Its just there to get you out of a "Oh ****" moment, not to bash on, basically it makes the "Mildly Terrifying" parts of the trail a bit easier to concentrate on.

If your building a rock crawler i say get the thick steel ones otherwise i'd save the sprung weight.

My experience is you tend to abuse the diff areas on rocks more than anything else other than bend a steering arm or get unlucky and hole the oil pan you should be able to get out and home.

I don't have the ARB skid installed yet, No Lift installed yet either since the current plan is to add all the non-variable weight to JK (Armor, bumpers, fridge and what not) then do the lift so i am sizing it for the actual load. For protection on the JK i'm copying what i did on the defender.

 

[FastGlass]

The arb 5450110 is a front belly plate but not full coverage. Just the Engine and transmission you leave the stock plates installed. The ARB plate is 3mm ~1/8th inch. Its just there to get you out of a "Oh ****" moment, not to bash on, basically it makes the "Mildly Terrifying" parts of the trail a bit easier to concentrate on.

If your building a rock crawler i say get the thick steel ones otherwise i'd save the sprung weight.

My experience is you tend to abuse the diff areas on rocks more than anything else other than bend a steering arm or get unlucky and hole the oil pan you should be able to get out and home.

I don't have the ARB skid installed yet, No Lift installed yet either since the current plan is to add all the non-variable weight to JK (Armor, bumpers, fridge and what not) then do the lift so i am sizing it for the actual load. For protection on the JK i'm copying what i did on the defender.

Most thorough response I think I've gotton to date to a question asked....thank you. Maybe 1/4" aluminum is good enough. The problem I'll have, I think, is fitment around the crossmember that Clayton uses for mounting the arms up front. I wish they offered that option, but their system is overbuilt for a reason.
Would love to see the Defender....I came REAL close to acquiring one a few years ago, but wanted a low miles, reasonably priced 110 wagon. Start laughing in 3-2-1.....

 

[aristobrat]

Im running ProRocks front and back...The rear 60 is pretty damn beefy for the diff covers and housing, so barring a trip to Moab I'm calling it probably good there.

Understood. I'm not sure why AEV calls it a "rear diff skid" ... it's actually the lower part of the rear drive shaft that it protects the most (IMO). It's not the most frequently used skid on my Jeep, but it's the one that really earns its weight when it is used.

 

[RubiconGeoff]

I've abused my OEM skidplates pretty hard and although they're pretty beaten up, they're still doing their job. The only thing that Jeep left completely unprotected is the oil pan, so I added the lightweight Rancho RockGear oilpan skidplate. If I ever replace all my OEM drivetrain skidplates, I'll use Artec's Under Armor set, which appears to currently be the best on the market.

 

[mikeJKUR]

Understood. I'm not sure why AEV calls it a "rear diff skid" ... it's actually the lower part of the rear drive shaft that it protects the most (IMO). It's not the most frequently used skid on my Jeep, but it's the one that really earns its weight when it is used.

In my opinion the Rough Country diff skid is better. Cost half the price and it protects the diff cover. So no need for a diff cover so you save more money plus you also save on weight.

 

[aristobrat]

I'm not sure how much I like the idea of supporting that much weight on five bolts that also happen to be keeping the diff cover attached, or how narrow that skid is towards the end, but it is more of a true skid than a slider, and you def can't beat the price!

I think the OP said he's running a ProRock 60 on the rear. Not sure if the bolt pattern on that will line up with this?

 

[BigTom73]

I wouldn't worry too much about the gas tank skid and get the other skids. I might stick with the clayton stuff just because of using their long arm set up. Other than that I don't have enough experience to recommend one brand over another. If you really want aluminum check out nemesis and genright for their options. I just know they have aluminum.