Are all leveling kits created equal? What makes one better than the other?

[cntryislandboy]

I recently posted about getting new tires for my wifes 2012 Yukon, and just as I'm getting ready to order, she blurts out, you know I want a air intake, and oh yeah a small lift wouldn't be bad either. So that brings me back to the drawing board somewhat.

I figure I'll just increase the tire size and stick with what I was going to purchase before.

Will a leveling kit be enough to suit me needs? Are they all created equal ? If not what should I look for? Should I consider a different option?

With a leveling kit I can fit 33s. I'm wondering if this will be enough for our new needs of this rig. Needs are mostly pavement, gravel roads, probably forest roads. Nothing to technical. Also the tires will be a close to flush or tucked in as possible, she doesn't want anything sticking out,(doesn't want dirt and rocks flying up chipping the side of her car) or if they do as little as possible. So I think a big lift with tucked tires might look a little off. Ideally we are looking to make a trip out west to visit my brother in Salt Lake City. So heading out to MOAB, maybe some BLM land and trails. Again nothing fancy. With any luck that build will begin next year after we buy a house.

I'm thinking this would be sufficient and cost effective allowing funds to go to other places like a fridge, camping supplies, travel, etc.

Thanks in advance.

 

[rayra]

stock or leveling kit will do all of what you stated. The expense of a higher lift would pay for your trip to UT.
And you could do the level kit and wait for the tires to wear out before you go bigger.
You don't really need any of it for for pavement, gravel or forest roads.

but then again I'm a cheap b*stard. I 'got away' with a leveling kit and some rear spring spacers on my Sub, got about 1-1/2" on the front and 2" on the rear. Still on stock sized tires.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

If you keep close to stock wheel offset, you can probably run 33"s without any suspension mods. A leveling kit or lift won't give you any additional ground clearance because the limiting factor is the distance under the diff pumpkins. Lift will improve approach and departure angles a little. I ran 35"s on my K1500 on stock suspension with wider wheels, factory offset. Now running 33"s, same setup.

 

[rayra]

I don't quite agree with that. My rear diff/axle might be the same height from the ground as it was to begin with, but everything else - including my front diff on my IFS vehicle - is nearly 2" higher than it used to be. 14" under my frame rails, now. 2" spacers on the rear original springs (maybe some H2 springs instead, some day). And some Rancho 'leveler' keys in the front. And I've only dialed up the adjustment bolts a few turns. I still have finger's width space between the uppers and the stop, still right very nice. Even more so as I've just finished my slow crawl of refreshing all of the suspension / steering / sway components. Still on my original sway and torsion bars, too. But everything else is now replaced with OEM / aftermarket replacements.

the other issue with Tahoe / Sub / Yukons is as much the squared-off wheel well openings, as anything else. You've got to go with a more expensive higher lift or start cutting the fender opening to get some 35s in there. Crazy Drei's topic shows what happens if you dont.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

You do have a point with the IFS, but my '98 K1500 has just about the same square wheel well openings and it ran the 35s with no interference on the outside. There was some rubbing on the inside rears, but a BFH and a block of wood took care of that. No interference anywhere with the 33s on 17" factory wheels that replaced the stock 16" wheels. FWIW, I just replaced the Bilstein shocks with Monroes so that I could get Load Levelers on the rear, and the old Bilsteins are noticeably better than the Monroes from ride and handling standpoint. But Monroe claims 500 pounds additional load capacity, so it's a trade-off.