Are Non-Genuine OE Lower Control Arms Acceptable?

[Dave Legacy]

Hey all,

This question is regarding a LR3:

I got a new set of tires this week, so naturally I was on an alignment rack this morning. Got the expected news that the lower front control arm bushings are soft (which is kinda how they're made to be fair), but also that I need some new ball joints and inner tie-rods (I have needed those for a while). I had some RRS bushings pressed in about 33K ago. The bushings aren't blown, but it was demonstrated to me that light pressure with a prybar exposes a lot of play. I'm still unsure if that isn't just they way those bushings are?

The price quote I got really wasn't that bad, but here's the question:

The price was for an OE part from a German manufacturer, but not technically a genuine Land Rover part. I have seen that Atlantic-British has a similar thing going with their control arms and they recommend the non-genuine part as well. I have always used Genuine LR parts, especially where reliability is critical, but not everything genuine Land Rover is good; LR makes a ton of garbage too. I haven't followed the LR Enthusiast Scene for a few years now, so I was hoping you guys could chime in and catch me up to speed. Are these non-genuine control arms the way to go or is it still recommended to stick to the genuine stuff?

Best regards,

Dave

 

[Dave Legacy]

You're right I'm using the wrong terminology; Thanks for clearing that up. As it was described to me it's an OEM part that is the same product, but not packaged in a Land Rover box. The LR ones are available, but the shop owner recommended these since they're the same and I save about $100.

 

[DiscoDavis]

You may try and keep the current arms, but press in polybush bushings instead. I have heard good things about the RRS ones too, it always comes up that they're the ones used in the sentinel model D3/D4's (armored versions) - I have never personally confirmed this-, but once they get soft and burst, the oil leaks out of the bushing and they are done. Polybush was even suggested to me by a dealer tech recently. I got new arms the last time solely because they were old and rusty, easier to press in new bushings the next time round on a clean rust-free example.

If you go for the control arms, I would just go OE/OEM, not aftermarket. Cupholder, sure; drivetrain part, no.

 

[Dave Legacy]

You may try and keep the current arms, but press in polybush bushings instead. I have heard good things about the RRS ones too, it always comes up that they're the ones used in the sentinel model D3/D4's (armored versions) - I have never personally confirmed this-, but once they get soft and burst, the oil leaks out of the bushing and they are done. Polybush was even suggested to me by a dealer tech recently. I got new arms the last time solely because they were old and rusty, easier to press in new bushings the next time round on a clean rust-free example.

If you go for the control arms, I would just go OE/OEM, not aftermarket. Cupholder, sure; drivetrain part, no.

My RRS bushings are still intact, but soft. Back when I was paying attention the guys who got the polybush kits were complaining about how squeaky they were. It may have only been the reds available at the time which I think are the stiffest model, but I can't recall. I would need to look back at the archives.

My other concern is strengthening a part designed to be soft and re-directing strain to a part that wasn't designed to withstand it. For example I used poly exhaust bushings on a Nissan I used to drive to reduce exhaust sway and ultimately cracked the exhaust piping at the hanger, because that was now the weakest point.

I've had these bushings pressed out once, so this would be the second time. Not sure if the openings get deformed at all, but I'll look into this concept more. Thanks for the guidance.

 

[Dave Legacy]

I get a soft knock when I give a sharp pump of the brake while backing into a parking spot, so I have to think the bushings are legitamately out of spec.

 

[A.J.M]

I've only seen 1 lower control arm snap and pull the driveshaft with it, that was with replacement bushes in it.

The RRS arm is a better bush design but also a slightly larger ball joint, 37mm over the 35mm in the 3.

I had "all makes" arms on my 3 to replace the worn originals, they lasted 18k before knocking again. I got 2 years out of them before they were fit for the skip.
I now have genuine RRS items in place. 14k and no noises so far so will see how they go.

 

[Victory_Overland]

I've only seen 1 lower control arm snap and pull the driveshaft with it, that was with replacement bushes in it.

The RRS arm is a better bush design but also a slightly larger ball joint, 37mm over the 35mm in the 3.

I had "all makes" arms on my 3 to replace the worn originals, they lasted 18k before knocking again. I got 2 years out of them before they were fit for the skip.
I now have genuine RRS items in place. 14k and no noises so far so will see how they go.

How do you make them fit if your ball joint size is different when using RRS on LR3?

 

[Dave Legacy]

I've only seen 1 lower control arm snap and pull the driveshaft with it, that was with replacement bushes in it.

The RRS arm is a better bush design but also a slightly larger ball joint, 37mm over the 35mm in the 3.

I had "all makes" arms on my 3 to replace the worn originals, they lasted 18k before knocking again. I got 2 years out of them before they were fit for the skip.
I now have genuine RRS items in place. 14k and no noises so far so will see how they go.

"All Makes" is aftermarket, right?

 

[Dave Legacy]

How do you make them fit if your ball joint size is different when using RRS on LR3?

A rat tail file! j/k. =)

 

[sunrisehiker]

LEMFORDER is a oem manufacturer of LR3 AND LR4 control arms , if you can source that, it's a start..

 

[dsm02c]

Im running the britpart aka $hitpart to at least some of the U.K. folks with orange Polybush. They seem to be doing well and I have about 4K on them having run el Camino del Diablo and fooled around the the local OHV part on the black trails with them. Dealer complained about how stiff the bushings were when they were aligning them. I did the bushing install the hard way and got them with the factory bushings in there and took them out. Would for sure recommend seeing if lucky8 still has the ones that ship with the Polybush. Changing the LCAS isn't hard it's just slow if you have to cut bolts, the Polybush is my plan to hopefully have them last 30k+ mi.

Regarding bushing squeak with Polybush orange, it's only present when I am making the transition from my alleyway to my driveway (it's pretty steep) otherwise driving down there is no difference.

The Polybush are stiffer for sure, there is also a company that makes replacement LCA bushings out of Australia that seems like they put quite a bit of R&D into the bushings, I'm gonna give them a go on my next set of bushings... (Nows a great time to buy from AUS)

 

[Ray_G]

Interested in the specifics on the AUS bushings, though truthfully I think the next time my truck needs LCA's I'll end up with the RRS version. I am trying to find where on the deep recesses of the inter web I saw cross reference to the D3 armored for those (I saw it...should have copied the link) but as noted in the thread many of the D3.uk folks are running them. Specific parts numbers that I'm tracking on since sometimes that is helpful is: LR029306 & LR029304 for the whole assemblies.

 

[dsm02c]

It's nolathane, seems like they have their stuff together, but I haven't really done much research. The design of their lr3/4 bushings seems subjectively better than the polybush I'm currently running...

http://www.nolathane.com.au/do_segu...ERY&model_final=DISCOVERY+3&vehicle=2004-2009

 

[Dave Legacy]

After hearing about the stories you all have to tell I'm wondering if maybe the 33K mi I got out of my RRS bushings isn't so bad? I mean they aren't even dead, just soft, and they aren't clunky except under certain circumstances.

 

[A.J.M]

Sorry, should have been clearer.

Yes. All makes is an after market maker of parts.

For the 37-35mm.

The larger ball joint is in the RRS arm, the thread is the same size for inserting into the D3 hub.
I bought replacement arms, not separate bushes and ball joint.

I removed the old arm and fitted the new RRS arm with new bolts. Plus lots and lots of copper grease to help get them out at some point in the future if needed.