Attempted Moon Photography

[JugglingSuns120]

First off let me say that I am completely new to photography, and everything I've learned I've learned from Google... That being said my wife decided she wanted a new camera, eventually we ended up with a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-HX200V, which has proven to be well above my capability most of the time having previously been just a point and shoot kind of person. As I started to get into what other features the camera had I realized I may be in a bit over my head. The past two nights the moon has been incredible so I figured I would try taking some pictures. The first night I couldn't figure out how to get anything but an over-exposed moon, which did lead to some nice cloud pictures but not good moon pictures. The 2nd night after a bit more research I got a couple of decent ones. Here are the results. Open to suggestions/comments (as long as they aren't get a DSLR.. way out of my price range right now haha)

 

[Sabre]

It was so easy in the pre-digital days: just use the sunny 16 rule because a photograph of a full moon is the same as taking a picture on a sunny day! Of course, you can still do that, but you have to make sure you've set the ISO first and it's a bit fiddly for most folks. Of course, the good thing about the modern digital method is that it would be a simple matter to layer a properly-exposed moon onto a long exposure of a nighttime scene.

For more drama (and realism) try to get the tonal values such that darks are darker and lights are lighter, yet both retain detail. You can bracket exposures in camera and also play with the curves in post-processing.

 

[Pathfinder]

Start with Manual Mode ( assuming your camera supports this and I see that it does http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-cyber-shot-dsc-hx200v/2 ), using the Sunny 16 rule ( http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=30235 ) for a beginning exposure. Use a tripod.

The moon is a sunlit object, but very small in the frame and confuses most light meters. Use Manual Mode, and start with Sunny 16, and adjust as necessary.


With a bit of luck you will get something like this

At ISO 100, Sunny 16 would suggest 1/100th sec shutter speed at f16, or 1/200 at f/11. Exposing as I did, f8 at 1/200th, is overexposing by 1 stop to capture the highlights of the moon better.

 

[JugglingSuns120]

Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like the full moon will be similarly sized for the next time around. I will see if I can improve over what I've gotten so far

 

[AA1PR]

I say learn how to shoot in manual mode first

get a paper notebook & start taking notes of what your aperture, shutter, ISO was etc

learn depth of field too

once you learn how to get the look/effect you want then go to the other camera modes

 

[AA1PR]

I cant find my closeups shot on the tele

here was a timed exposure, I set F8 ( I think) & let the camera do the rest

 

[Sirocco]

Nikon 70-300mm VR (@300mm) handheld, spotmetered, F8 and 800 ISO

G

 

[arlon]

I like to shoot moon shots a few stops under exposed. This gives me more shutter speed for sharper images. It also lets me increase the contrast a bit without blowing out the highlights (helps define the craters) then I use levels to get the exposure where I want it. A good steady rest helps and you have to use manual mode only. I don't know of any auto mode that will get the moon right. On my DSLR I also use manual focus, shoot a number of shots and refocus between each one. I use live view zoomed all the way in for focusing between shots, I also shoot "mirror up" (DSLR only) with a remote release. I take my time, shoot 20 or so shots and pick my favorite.. I do get some good shots that way. Full moons always look flat so I like shooting a day or two before or after a full moon to get a little more shadow on the craters. A program to edit photos is almost a necessity. I use PhotoShop Elements 11 right now. It is a REALLY good program with the beginner, guided and expert modes. Cost is also reasonable ($70-80) and it does 90% of what the full blown version does. Even if you only ever own a pocket camera, you can have a lot of fun with photoshop.

Having a simple bit of editing software lets you have a lot more fun with your moon shots..

 

[Herbie]

I like to shoot moon shots a few stops under exposed. This gives me more shutter speed for sharper images. It also lets me increase the contrast a bit without blowing out the highlights (helps define the craters) then I use levels to get the exposure where I want it. A good steady rest helps and you have to use manual mode only. I don't know of any auto mode that will get the moon right. On my DSLR I also use manual focus, shoot a number of shots and refocus between each one.

This is all great advice, I've started experimenting with a similar method. The following shot was done manual, slightly under-exposed, on tripod, with a 500mm Macro lens set to infinity. But here's the best part: I shot it in full daylight.

I'm sure I'll get better results on the next pass. When, you know, I shoot the moon at night. On this particular trip we had a late moon-rise and cloud cover, and I was too tired to wait up for things to improve for photography's sake. Woke up, made breakfast, and started packing the rig before I realized I could make an attempt...

 

[Rattler]

I did a lot of research and reading seeing what others had luck with and went from there (looking on other's photo settings on flckr was one way!). Like others said, manual mode and mess with your ISO at different settings.

I don't shoot the moon so much but I was trying to take night sky photos around our house (we are somewhat out of town) but the light pollution over ruled. Well we were in Michigan's Upper Peninsula for a week camping a bit ago. I think half of my photos were night sky shots. I was happy to say, the practice paid off and my settings only needed a little adjustment. This was with my Canon T2i a cheap Rokinon 8MM fisheye, a cheap Amazon tripod (new Manfrotto on the way), and a cheapo remote. Thanks to facebooks crappy compression it doesn't look as good as what I took.

I do post-process with Lightroom.