m3 bavaria
Adventurer
How difficult would it be to fix this:
How much?
How much?
Attn: RRC Rust experts
- Thread starter m3 bavaria
- Start date
evilfij
Explorer
The floors are probably shot if that is what the outside looks like.
The biggest problems are the front footwells, the rear floor at the back, the seat belt mounts in the back, and the frame behind the transmission crossmember. The liftgates are the first to go, but are easily replaced. Hoods (bonnets in roverspeak) rust too as that one has.
The biggest problems are the front footwells, the rear floor at the back, the seat belt mounts in the back, and the frame behind the transmission crossmember. The liftgates are the first to go, but are easily replaced. Hoods (bonnets in roverspeak) rust too as that one has.
I have always been told - buy all the truck you can going in. If you skimp on the purchase - you'll pay in the end anyway.
Rust is not your friend!
If you can see this much rust - I can only imagine what you don't see. (to Evil's point!)
D
Rust is not your friend!
If you can see this much rust - I can only imagine what you don't see. (to Evil's point!)
D
Nonimouse
Cynical old bastard
Where does a RR CLassic rust? Where there is metal!
In a high salt/road grit country like the UK I would check
Headlight surrounds
Battery Tray
Inner wings
A Posts (windscreen pillars) top to bottom and screen top support under front roof lip
B Post bases
Foot wells
Floor
Sills
Door slam to wheel arch junction
Rear seat kick plate
Tubular chassis X member
Rear body support X member
Rear inner Arches
Bonnet (Hood)
Metal Sunroof tray
Bottom tailgate lower edge
Top tail gate
Top tail gate to roof supports
Fuel tank supports
The Transmission tunnel doesn't rust :wings:
The great thing about a Classic is it will hone your welding skills to perfection
However if you live in a low salt/road grit area with constant dry heat, what you have shown in the pictures will be all you have issues with
In a high salt/road grit country like the UK I would check
Headlight surrounds
Battery Tray
Inner wings
A Posts (windscreen pillars) top to bottom and screen top support under front roof lip
B Post bases
Foot wells
Floor
Sills
Door slam to wheel arch junction
Rear seat kick plate
Tubular chassis X member
Rear body support X member
Rear inner Arches
Bonnet (Hood)
Metal Sunroof tray
Bottom tailgate lower edge
Top tail gate
Top tail gate to roof supports
Fuel tank supports
The Transmission tunnel doesn't rust :wings:
The great thing about a Classic is it will hone your welding skills to perfection
However if you live in a low salt/road grit area with constant dry heat, what you have shown in the pictures will be all you have issues with
Snagger
Explorer
I have the same rust on my bonnet and tailgate, and the body shell and chassis are perfectly solid. The offside front wheel arch needed a plate on the rear slope, as did the foot well, but the rest is completely sound (I have a mechanic friend with a boroscope and we checked all the cavities, sills, inner wings and so on).
Localised media blasting and lead loading would be the best way of dealing with the pictured rust, which is almost certainly surface rust. If it does go through, then plating on the inside and filling would work perfectly well.
Localised media blasting and lead loading would be the best way of dealing with the pictured rust, which is almost certainly surface rust. If it does go through, then plating on the inside and filling would work perfectly well.