Aux Fuse Block and Mount

Big_Geek

Drop Bear
Thought the group might get a kick out of the aux fuse block and mounting bracket that I built for my 2013 Taco TRD Off-Road. I haven't routed the negative cable (and I'm not sure I'll use this positive cable when it's all said and done), but the hardest parts are done. I chose a Blue Sea Systems SafetyHub 150 to handle both smaller loads (6 blade-style ATO/ATC fuses) and larger loads up to 200 amps (4 MIDI/AMI fuses).

Fuse_Block.jpg

It fits in the space between the fender and the master cylinder, does not interfere or rub on any stock electrical wires or connectors, does not interfere with the stock fuse box latch, allows for the removal of the additional fuse box behind the main with the removal of one bolt from the aux fuse block, uses existing bolt holes, and is every bit as solid as I had hoped using 16-gauge steel.
 

Wainiha

Explorer
Good stuff. I have been looking at an aux. fuse block from Blue Sea. I don't have enough aux stuff to warrant it yet, but I will.:D
 

TEJASYOTA

Adventurer
NICE!... I was going to ask about the size, took me awhile to find it... 6.5 x 5.08 x 1.87 inches.

Wonder when they and other electrical suppliers/manuft will make it or verify it is RoHS compliant...
 
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GTABurnout

Explorer
NICE!... I was going to ask about the size, took me awhile to find it... 6.5 x 5.08 x 1.87 inches.

Wonder when they and other electrical suppliers/manuft will make it or verify it is RoHS compliant...

Just wondering why would RoHas compliance matter to you?
 

TEJASYOTA

Adventurer
Not much for me, other when we started this RoHS verification/change of materials about 2 yrs ago at the company I work for.
I just found it interesting that Blue Sea has not done it yet.
Since it will matter here in the states soon... since Cali has adopted some of the RoHS restrictions.
It's just a matter of time.
 

Big_Geek

Drop Bear
Good stuff. I have been looking at an aux. fuse block from Blue Sea. I don't have enough aux stuff to warrant it yet, but I will.:D

The trick is to have the fuse block installed cleanly with a plan for your cabling before you need it...
 
Just mounted mine this weekend and took this shot this AM

53DDF92D-62C4-4F5F-8AF9-9F48DB675D83-20816-0000024A3F2157DA.jpg
 
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It's not too bad. The way I did it there is enough slack to lift the lid off the base, then just tilt it in (toward the engine) to be able to see the underside. Given that one should hardly ever need to in there it was an acceptable level of access for me :D
 
Manual dual battery switch

6007200.jpg


http://bluesea.com/category/78/1/products/6007200


Allows you to use battery 1, battery 2, combine, or all off. I like this method over the standard solenoid kits for a few reasons:

1. All off completely disconnects all Batt+ load from both batteries, which is good for long term storage. Minor theft protection :D And if you want to work on your electrical system (no more having to remove battery terminals)
2. Allows you to remove either battery for replacement without loosing use of the vehicle. Normal solenoid kits tie the second battery through the first, so even if the primary is dead you need it in there to complete the circuit or would have to shuffle your batteries around.
3. Simpler wiring. No toggle switch to wire
 

Wainiha

Explorer
The trick is to have the fuse block installed cleanly with a plan for your cabling before you need it...

I agree. All I have now is a LED bar that goes into the aux. power outlet so I'm good. More lights, and a winch when I can afford one, will go on an aux fuse box. Dual batteries first though.
 

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