Auxiliary Lighting
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The Rover Shop
Explorer
I lovvvve LED lights...
That's a 52" curved light bar on the top, and the 270 watt 9" led on front...I have HID lights either side for longer distance light projection..
Sure, you can buy the super expensive rigid lights.....or you can buy 4 sets of the cheap ones off eBay for half that price...I've had noooo problems with the cheapoes
That's a 52" curved light bar on the top, and the 270 watt 9" led on front...I have HID lights either side for longer distance light projection..
Sure, you can buy the super expensive rigid lights.....or you can buy 4 sets of the cheap ones off eBay for half that price...I've had noooo problems with the cheapoes
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LR Max
Local Oaf
Peterson 701C Headlights and generic 20" double stack narrow beam light bar on the front of my 109.
7 by Max Thomason, on Flickr
The LED headlights are pretty much the bom-diggity. For any of my series or defender peeps out there that actually use their trucks...this is it. You need this.
The light bar...is good for off road. Not as good as the petersons on the road. Just doesn't have the intensity and range. So its easier to just use the high beams vs. using the light bar.
I plan on converting the rest of my truck over to LED. Interior lights. External lights. Dash lights, etc. Worth it.
7 by Max Thomason, on FlickrThe LED headlights are pretty much the bom-diggity. For any of my series or defender peeps out there that actually use their trucks...this is it. You need this.
The light bar...is good for off road. Not as good as the petersons on the road. Just doesn't have the intensity and range. So its easier to just use the high beams vs. using the light bar.
I plan on converting the rest of my truck over to LED. Interior lights. External lights. Dash lights, etc. Worth it.
krick3tt
Adventurer
LED lighting is superb. Low current draw and easily installed. Bars and spots install the same wether LED or incandescent but the internal use lights are white (mostly) and don't heat up so can be left on for long periods. As for headlights the issue is that they don't heat up to melt ice build up on those long winter outings.
wildorange
Observer
50" light bar on my D3.
288w 24k lumens working range. Came from Australia, can't mind the company name.
Show off ��
Nice set up.
lwg
Member
I lovvvve LED lights...
View attachment 357016
View attachment 357017
That's a 52" curved light bar on the top, and the 270 watt 9" led on front...I have HID lights either side for longer distance light projection..
Sure, you can buy the super expensive rigid lights.....or you can buy 4 sets of the cheap ones off eBay for half that price...I've had noooo problems with the cheapoes
How's that center round LED working out? It looks similar to the ARB but likely much less expensive. I do really like those. I'm running the old Krager HID's on my rig and they are a huge improvement over halogen's, but LED' are an improvement over HID's.
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The Rover Shop
Explorer
That center one is a knock off of the ARB from ebay...it's the 9" version something like 2700 lumens if I recall...comes with a clear shield for spot or a refractor shield to make it flood..I run it with the clear shield.. Personally I haven't seen an LED light yet that can compare for longer distance projection than the terrafirmas either side of it...they are hid and have an excellent long distance beam...between the led on the front and the light bar above the screen there is plenty of flood lighting..I also have 2 rigid 4led light lights on the rear at either corner and midway along each side I have the 8" (18 LEDs) spot flood combinations...all upper led lights can be illuminated remotely from about 1/4 mile away...... Fun toys...lol..
... Fun toys...lol..
The Rover Shop
Explorer
No points for guessing which one is mine...lol..
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Ray_G
Explorer
So for the original poster I'll go ahead and add some commentary; LED lighting can be fantastic. How do I 'feel' about LED light bars? I had one on my D3-took it off, but she still has LED lights in the bumper which when coupled with the HID headlights are more than adequate for her intended purpose. My D1 has plenty of LEDs; interior lighting, backup lights, and cargo/work lamps. None forward facing or visible-she does have 4 Hellas on the roof but these are traditional halogens.
So I'll say what you may hear more on other forums: LED lights can be great, but also can not fit the lines of a truck depending on what vintage it is and what your intended purpose is.
I'd also say that Larry's post I snagged is something one could take exception to; i.e. it isn't a simple halogen < HID < LED; if you need to cast light far out in front of the truck than LED isn't going to get that done for you-HID certainly will and the right kind of halogen could too. Traveling in a convoy? LEDs may spend as much time off as on if you're not the #1 as anyone who has seen the idiots driving around town with their LED bars on just because can attest.
Sorry for the 0600 rant...it was good procrastination from working out and going to the kiddos swim meet when I'd really rather not do either!
r-
Ray
iowalr4
Adventurer
I agree that having LED bars can have downsides. I have cheap ones and the light doesn't push out as far as the nicer big halogens with good reflectors. I have a single row ~36" 108 watt bar wedged between my wind fairing and roof such that light does not spill onto the hood. That makes it somewhat more useful.
I also have some work lights on the back with a cheap remote setup, dimmer, etc. Nice for working around camp at night, only 18 watts max.
I also have some work lights on the back with a cheap remote setup, dimmer, etc. Nice for working around camp at night, only 18 watts max.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
I agree that having LED bars can have downsides. I have cheap ones and the light doesn't push out as far as the nicer big halogens with good reflectors. I have a single row ~36" 108 watt bar wedged between my wind fairing and roof such that light does not spill onto the hood. That makes it somewhat more useful.
I also have some work lights on the back with a cheap remote setup, dimmer, etc. Nice for working around camp at night, only 18 watts max.
Love the light set up. Love the wind fairing even more, is that factory to the Voyager set up?
I'll give my two cents, as it's probably worth about that much...
Over the years, I have had the opportunity to run something from every category and at various levels. Stock bulbs, knock-off LED bars, Rigid, Baja Designs, HID converted Hella 500s, IPF HID, etc. All this on various Land Rover and Toyota platforms in the US and Africa. Here is where I ended up with my setup here in Uganda:
Requirements: Run lots of light in normal driving without pissing people off, switch High beams on/off easily with no HID warmup times or ballasts to burn out. Here, there are no street lights, no sidewalks, and 5% of the population owns a car. Good lighting is literally a preventative measure to not killing a mom with a baby on her back.
I've settled in with the following, as it meets my criteria and I'm happy.
Low Beam / Normal Driving - LED bulbs in stock housing with retrofitted castor shields to control the glare, aimed down.
Two SAE/DOT approved Rigid D2s. The light is even, focused, and doesn't piss off other drivers.
High Beams - Flip the stick and on comes the following: LED bulb high beams in the stock housings. A Rigid Hyperspot that gives an insane distance throw of focused light down the road. A pair of Rigid D2 driving lights that gives a bright throw up close and for turning.
Village driving There's a 20", MicTuning LED bar behind the grill that I can switch on when I want more light and know that I won't be running into any oncoming traffic and want even more light to avoid hitting someone. I' have used MicTuning for over 4 years in Africa with no issues. I believe the knock off and name brand stuff both have their place.
The only thing I would improve is a projector retrofit. For now, I'm fine without them.
Over the years, I have had the opportunity to run something from every category and at various levels. Stock bulbs, knock-off LED bars, Rigid, Baja Designs, HID converted Hella 500s, IPF HID, etc. All this on various Land Rover and Toyota platforms in the US and Africa. Here is where I ended up with my setup here in Uganda:
Requirements: Run lots of light in normal driving without pissing people off, switch High beams on/off easily with no HID warmup times or ballasts to burn out. Here, there are no street lights, no sidewalks, and 5% of the population owns a car. Good lighting is literally a preventative measure to not killing a mom with a baby on her back.
I've settled in with the following, as it meets my criteria and I'm happy.
Low Beam / Normal Driving - LED bulbs in stock housing with retrofitted castor shields to control the glare, aimed down.
Two SAE/DOT approved Rigid D2s. The light is even, focused, and doesn't piss off other drivers.
High Beams - Flip the stick and on comes the following: LED bulb high beams in the stock housings. A Rigid Hyperspot that gives an insane distance throw of focused light down the road. A pair of Rigid D2 driving lights that gives a bright throw up close and for turning.
Village driving There's a 20", MicTuning LED bar behind the grill that I can switch on when I want more light and know that I won't be running into any oncoming traffic and want even more light to avoid hitting someone. I' have used MicTuning for over 4 years in Africa with no issues. I believe the knock off and name brand stuff both have their place.
The only thing I would improve is a projector retrofit. For now, I'm fine without them.