Average D2 month?

[D4782]

Hello all,

I've been researching D2's for some time now, and even with all my searching I can't quite find one bit of info I'm looking for. We all know that the D2 takes some upkeep over and above what many other vehicles require. You have to be comfortable working on them yourself. I also know there are some common problems-Three amigos, Head gasket, window regulator, door lock. However, once those common failures are addressed, what sorts of problems keep you wrenching?
That is to say, this past month, what happened to your D2 that you had to fix?

I come from a background of old BMW's, old VW superbeetle (rebuild the engine and tranny etc), mini cooper, Montero etc. I've worked on cars quite a bit. I'm ready to move on from the montero and am looking at a D2 and am just trying to get a better idea of what I may be getting in to! Looking specifically at an 01 with 90000mi and a new head gasket, thermostat, tires and timing chain.
Though I'm also considering if I can wait a bit for an LR3.

So, what has the past month involved for you with your D2?

Thanks!

Aaron

 

[MLu]

-99 Td5 with 305,000 km on the clock, so this is not quite comparable. Over 18 months of ownership it averages out to just under 200 euros per month in maintenance, parts and paid-for labor (including some unnecessary toys, like a ladder, radiator muff, lights, tracmats as well as tires). This does not include the cost of fixing the three amigos that have been visiting me for a few months, or the ACE pump that just got fried, or the window regulator, or the leaking gasket at the ***-end of the engine or a bunch of other little things that need fixing. Overall, the biggest costs have been dealing with pipes of various kinds busting. Brake line, power steering, ACE pipe and transmission cooler pipes have all required some sort of gum-and-duct-tape solution that tends to become quite costly (especially after they fail again). I do live in an area with salted roads and where rust is a really major issue.

As every single person on this forum will tell you; maintenance, not repairs, is the key to a healthy relationship.

 

[wardrover]

After fairly minimal issues for a while (last major thing was the starter motor Jan 2014), I had a run of problems the last few months: a leaky rear wheel hub/axle seal and related rear brake job in August ($1300) another starter motor in September ($500), and a pesky EVAP leak in November ($300). Those are at northeast USA prices (indie Rover mechanic charges a fairly standard $100/hr for labor). Looking ahead, I'm going to need a sandblast and paint job on the rear quarter of the frame to beat back some rust.

Including routine maintenance, I estimate the yearly average cost of keeping my 2003 Disco SE (118k miles) on the road is about $2400. It would be less if I had garage space to work on the truck myself, but I live in an apartment.

 

[D4782]

Thanks guys, this is the kind of stuff I was looking for! I've been reading through old threads to see what little problems come up. Everyone says it's constant maintenance but it can be tough to find what little things are being worked on aside from the major, well documented problems.

 

[crash!!!]

99 disco 2. 135k miles. I bought mine Sept of 14. Ran well until December of 14. Head job, front cover gasket, water pump, coil, and power steering pump. All over about 6 month period. Had a small miss never threw a code, replaced plug wires and fixed. Did a new agm battery in november. And now I need to rebuild the brake booster resivoir. I have put about 2500 in repairs in a year. Most of it doing my own work but some at a land rover independent shop. I would suggest to get a live odb monitor and also an obd2 code reader. Landroverforums.com is a great resource.

 

[howirolla]

bought mine with 113k, I replaced the MAF the week I got it, knew it needed one when I bought it. also the driver side rear door didn't open (and still doesn't)
about 4 months later it needed plugs and wires.
2 months later brakes were a must.
next month my SAI started tossing codes so I just removed it.
2.5 months after that my w/p was leaking, which was odd cause I had paperwork for it being done less than a year ago, turns out the pump was fine, it was leaking from between the pump and the motor, but I had the pump already so I just replaced it anyway.

other than that just oil changes, drove it daily and wheeled and adventured in it including a trip to moab from Oregon towing a trailer. anything else was self inflicted, I put a new rubber coupler on the rear shaft when I did a t-case swap so I could have a center locker. I at least have a new latch for that door that wont open, just haven't had time/winter weather keeping me from fixing it. also still need to do the front shaft, I HAVE greased what I could in it but I'm probably really pushing it now with the miles at 138k 32" tires and some relatively rough wheeling with a generally heavy foot off-road....

prices? I try to forget those after the fact, could be out of fear, could be cause I feel like it just comes with the territory of this type of vehicle and how I use it.

 

[454]

Over ten years and three Rovers I have found that I burn between $1500 and 3000 per year to keep them going. It still averages out to be cheaper than a car payment.

 

[99Discovery]

Past month? Oil change 5w30, greasing the shaft, and then installing a Tactical Rover and Synthetic Winch.

My D2 has been the most reliable *knock on wood* used car I've ever purchased. I did get a I've owned it through 3 years of off-rgood one with records though. I did have to buy the greasable shaft $330, a thermostat TD5 $60, and a 17 year old starter motor ($100something). The rest have been toys/gadgets: CDL, ultraguage (highly recommended), the bumper and winch, 31" tires, etc.

I will need to buy the rear shaft flex-disk though. Can't complain with the vehicle being 17 years old and 110k on the clock.

So far nothing major. Just watch your cooling system as the Buick Block is the most notorious grenade on the vehicle. Which is a shame, because she's one of the best off-road friendly (think torque curve) engines I've ever owned, including better than the venerable Jeep I6.

There are many examples that go over 200k with reasonable upkeep. The difference between the Rover V8 and say a small-block Chevy or a Toyota V6 is that the Chevy and Yota has a chance of going 200k without being anal about cooling systems and stuff. The Land Rover...........not so much.

Luckily you have plenty of enthusiasts here and if you aren't scared to DIY, the Land Rover can be cheap, fun, and reliable (it's never left me stranded...can't say that about my Jeep ZJ...).

If you plan to use a shop....it will cost you $$, just like any other car. Except moreso because the proper maintenance...while easy...can be pricey if you have a shop do it.


454 is right. I find it fun to work on the Rover, and once you consider the cheep entry price into Roverville, upkeep is cheap.....much cheaper than say trying to buy a '97 Land Cruiser with under 200k on the clock.

I'm starting look at P38s with blown headgaskets and try a repair. $500 to get started.....But the P38 is a different beast....Rover V8 + early BMW 7-series Electronics. I just must love working on cars!

 

[D4782]

As I've been shopping and poking around under the hood of a few they don't seem all that difficult to work on. I'm used to older BMW cooling system problems, and the upkeep that comes with that. Changing water pumps and timing belts often. I'm feeling slightly more confident in getting a D2. I do like to do preventative maintenance, so I don't think it will be too much of a problem. Most people seem to be maintenance on the well documented, well known problems.

 

[454]

I would immediately change out the front driveshaft to a rebuilt/new unit with greaseable joints. I'm not kidding about immediately. The factory non-serviceable joints will fail and the flailing driveshaft will knock a hole in your transmission. More than one truck has been written off because of that.

 

[D4782]

The plan would be to buy, and spend the next several days doing all the major fixes and maintenance necessary. I live near a driveline shop, rebuilding the driveshafts won't be an issue. I like to immediately get the vehicle up to snuff before I start daily driving it.

 

[howirolla]

As I've been shopping and poking around under the hood of a few they don't seem all that difficult to work on.

well
it IS just an old buick motor that they made out of aluminum rather than iron and injected rather than carbed lol

 

[Skkeel01]

I would immediately change out the front driveshaft to a rebuilt/new unit with greaseable joints. I'm not kidding about immediately. The factory non-serviceable joints will fail and the flailing driveshaft will knock a hole in your transmission. More than one truck has been written off because of that.

I pulled mine as soon as I felt a vibration. After taking it apart, it was apparent I could have driven a while longer. In my opinion, if only driving in "normal" conditions, you would have to blatantly ignore the problem for a while before it would fail enough to take out the transmission. That said, it will fail eventually, unless it's been updated with greasable joints/centering ball and properly serviced.

 

[mowerman]

In my experience when a prop UJ starts to fail they can go extremely quickly, sometimes in a few miles so it's a good idea to check for play on a regular basis.

 

[D4782]

For a small jump in price I've found a '05 LR3. Now, I know the '05 isn't the most reccomended but over a D2 my understanding is its a large jump in reliability. My only concern is its high miles. 130000 mi. Would any of you be concerned at those miles IF it has been well maintained. I'm working on getting service history. It's being sold by a Kia dealer. Trade in I'm assuming.