How close would you say you could get to the coast? I've a trip planned to that general part of the world in August.
AWOL Around Australia...
- Thread starter Rufant
- Start date
How close would you say you could get to the coast? I've a trip planned to that general part of the world in August.
Rufant
Well-known member
There are various places across the Gulf where you can get to the coast. As you can (and we did) at Lorella, you can launch a boat there too. Just not on that particular track.
Rufant
Well-known member
Thanks. We're into month 9 currently. This journal is about a month behind I would say. We're currently heading towards home (the long way...).
Rufant
Well-known member
Looking On The Bright Side.
Northern Territory.
Whilst driving around Lorella Springs, we mulled over the concept of one man owning so much land. Of course this isn't the biggest private property in Australia, not by any means, and Rhett is a legend for opening it up and creating what he has. Just the way the world is divvied up, not just here but all over. Just doesn't seem quite right somehow... Anyway, it's been that way a long time and no one ain't giving their bit up! Still, food for thought.
Whilst Lorella Springs was great. Like a National Park it is also slightly ‘prescribed’ as kind of know what you’re going to get, even if it is awesome. So while we could have stayed longer - we did about 300km of trails, and about half the station - it was time to get back to just following our noses, and the mixed bagthat comes with that.
I have a particular thing about finding stuff myself, so I guess it wouldn't bother most people. So just go, it's a great place for all experience levels.
Whilst I'm in a reflective mood... I've had plenty of time and different experiences on this trip to really think about what sort of exploring I want to do, and how I like to go about various aspects of this hobby. This is good. I kind of know what I want to do with it, for the next, what? 10 years or so.
The road south (which is the road most people would use to get to Lorella) is pretty rough. Not that the road we came in on, to the north, was much better. We pass about eight 'rigs' coming the other way. Dry season tourists are starting to stream north.
I turn off, to head east, a detour to the town of Borroloola, for old times sake. I was here in 2006, as my first AACAP project with the Army. It was also my first visit to an Aboriginal Community. I can tell you it was an eye opener back then. Rubbish, especially beer cans everywhere. Houses without doors or windows. Fires lit inside the houses. It felt like I was in a documentary, about some third world country.
I remember as part of the advance party we stayed in town initially, and the big congregation of locals outside the pub one morning - some sort of community meeting? Nope, that day was 'pay day' and it seemed like the whole town was ugly drunk for the next few days.
Well I'm very glad to say the Borroloola is a much improved place. The pub is no longer, the building is now a shop. The piles of beer cans around the town have gone, and it seems a much more together community.
What's left the old pub signage.
This bridge wasn't built last time I was here. Also, this crossing was under about a foot of water, that's the difference between a big wet season and an average one.
I fill up at the servo and have a chat with the bloke in there "Is this a dry town now?"
"Nope, but it may as well be" I tell him of my memories and he says its something he's heard before. He says it works well here, better than many 'dry' communities. He also explains that he came here after a four year stint in the Anangu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara (APY) lands, one of the most remote communities in Australia. Good chat. I buy some of his delicious fried chicken, and a book about Borroloola.
I used to ride my bike out to this sign several times a day (n0t to mention I explored every trail I could find in the area). I have pretty much the same photo somewhere from 2006.
So, nostalgia trip done, we hit the highway, back the way we had come heading for Heartbreak Hotel. About 40km out there is an almost inperceptible noise, like a slight change in road surface. Then a distinct smell “you smell that?” I say, “yes, and I heard a noise”. I start to pull over, checking my mirrors as a matter of course, and there is nothing, but a distinct smoke plume behind us...
Quick outside inspection is nothing, looking underneath our issue is apparent.
Rightyho. Pull the truck a bit further off the road, this is a mining road train route. Put on sunscreen, a hat, get out both front floor mats. No point being unnecessarily uncomfortable.
It’s a straightforward enough repair. Remove tyre, the damper has mangled its bush as its worked its way off the mounting, with the retaining bolt long gone, before munching out the sidewall of the KO2. So there’s no point putting that shock back on, we have spares strapped to the chassis, may as well use them.
The two top bolts are not in great shape, owing to the design that sticks the very end on them through the chassis and out into the world of water, mud, crap, and dirt. So the threads on them are not happy being wound out. I persevere with lots of winding in and out and lubricant, gladly nothing breaks and the shock is out. Swap the top mounting over with the TJM shock I bought back in Alice Springs with its bonded in lower mounting. I wrestle the replacement back in, and try swapping the two top mounting bolts around, but they’re still not happy, I get them tight enough (but would keep checking and tightening them for the next few days). I have an ex chassis bolt (thanks, new recovery points) that is the right size and pitch for the lower mounting bolt, but way too long. Many spacers and washers later I manage to get suitable tension on it.
Spare tyre on, everything away and we are going again.
A quick look at the map and there is nothing on our intended route that looks like it might have a replacement tyre. So we u-bolt back to Borroloola, it’s a NT public holiday today, but hopefully we can get a new tyre tomorrow.
On reflection, bloody glad I got that fried chicken! If you see good fried chicken don't pass it up, you never know when you'll need those greasy calories...
Rolling into Borroloola we see another couple with the Patrol that we’ve run into the last few days, around Lorella. We have a laugh and swap stories. Come the morning I tell them I hope not to see them again (joke).
...
The local auto store is the sort of thing you dream about in this situation. Stocked better than most city stores, not with the fluff, but with stuff you might actually need. Mother and daughters run front of house, and were more knowledgeable than most auto store workers I’ve run into. While the guys did the workshop stuff out the back.
A choice of four or five different types of tyres in my size - probably the main reason I stick with the standard size - went with the Cooper, BFG not being an option. It sets me back $396. All of this is strangely reminiscent of last time a destroyed a tyre.
That was on the way back from Arkaroola in the Flinders Ranges, that time the town was Copley. Again about four tyres to choose from, I also choose the Cooper - which is now on the car, and again just under $400 for the tyre. Anyway, as well as the tyre I grabbed all new bolts for both rear shocks. We were good to go again.
So why is this called 'Look On The Bright Side'? Well, if this had happened pretty much anywhere else we had been the last few weeks it could have been a (much) bigger headache. It also justifies somewhat the belt and braces approach I took to packing and preparing for this trip. This sort of situation, is why you lug around all that gear to get you out of trouble.
So we make it to Heartbreak Hotel and turn the truck due south. Down through the (Gnarls) Barkly Tablelands.
Northern Territory.
Whilst driving around Lorella Springs, we mulled over the concept of one man owning so much land. Of course this isn't the biggest private property in Australia, not by any means, and Rhett is a legend for opening it up and creating what he has. Just the way the world is divvied up, not just here but all over. Just doesn't seem quite right somehow... Anyway, it's been that way a long time and no one ain't giving their bit up! Still, food for thought.
Whilst Lorella Springs was great. Like a National Park it is also slightly ‘prescribed’ as kind of know what you’re going to get, even if it is awesome. So while we could have stayed longer - we did about 300km of trails, and about half the station - it was time to get back to just following our noses, and the mixed bagthat comes with that.
I have a particular thing about finding stuff myself, so I guess it wouldn't bother most people. So just go, it's a great place for all experience levels.
Whilst I'm in a reflective mood... I've had plenty of time and different experiences on this trip to really think about what sort of exploring I want to do, and how I like to go about various aspects of this hobby. This is good. I kind of know what I want to do with it, for the next, what? 10 years or so.
The road south (which is the road most people would use to get to Lorella) is pretty rough. Not that the road we came in on, to the north, was much better. We pass about eight 'rigs' coming the other way. Dry season tourists are starting to stream north.
I turn off, to head east, a detour to the town of Borroloola, for old times sake. I was here in 2006, as my first AACAP project with the Army. It was also my first visit to an Aboriginal Community. I can tell you it was an eye opener back then. Rubbish, especially beer cans everywhere. Houses without doors or windows. Fires lit inside the houses. It felt like I was in a documentary, about some third world country.
I remember as part of the advance party we stayed in town initially, and the big congregation of locals outside the pub one morning - some sort of community meeting? Nope, that day was 'pay day' and it seemed like the whole town was ugly drunk for the next few days.
Well I'm very glad to say the Borroloola is a much improved place. The pub is no longer, the building is now a shop. The piles of beer cans around the town have gone, and it seems a much more together community.
What's left the old pub signage.
This bridge wasn't built last time I was here. Also, this crossing was under about a foot of water, that's the difference between a big wet season and an average one.
I fill up at the servo and have a chat with the bloke in there "Is this a dry town now?"
"Nope, but it may as well be" I tell him of my memories and he says its something he's heard before. He says it works well here, better than many 'dry' communities. He also explains that he came here after a four year stint in the Anangu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara (APY) lands, one of the most remote communities in Australia. Good chat. I buy some of his delicious fried chicken, and a book about Borroloola.
I used to ride my bike out to this sign several times a day (n0t to mention I explored every trail I could find in the area). I have pretty much the same photo somewhere from 2006.
So, nostalgia trip done, we hit the highway, back the way we had come heading for Heartbreak Hotel. About 40km out there is an almost inperceptible noise, like a slight change in road surface. Then a distinct smell “you smell that?” I say, “yes, and I heard a noise”. I start to pull over, checking my mirrors as a matter of course, and there is nothing, but a distinct smoke plume behind us...
Quick outside inspection is nothing, looking underneath our issue is apparent.
Rightyho. Pull the truck a bit further off the road, this is a mining road train route. Put on sunscreen, a hat, get out both front floor mats. No point being unnecessarily uncomfortable.
It’s a straightforward enough repair. Remove tyre, the damper has mangled its bush as its worked its way off the mounting, with the retaining bolt long gone, before munching out the sidewall of the KO2. So there’s no point putting that shock back on, we have spares strapped to the chassis, may as well use them.
The two top bolts are not in great shape, owing to the design that sticks the very end on them through the chassis and out into the world of water, mud, crap, and dirt. So the threads on them are not happy being wound out. I persevere with lots of winding in and out and lubricant, gladly nothing breaks and the shock is out. Swap the top mounting over with the TJM shock I bought back in Alice Springs with its bonded in lower mounting. I wrestle the replacement back in, and try swapping the two top mounting bolts around, but they’re still not happy, I get them tight enough (but would keep checking and tightening them for the next few days). I have an ex chassis bolt (thanks, new recovery points) that is the right size and pitch for the lower mounting bolt, but way too long. Many spacers and washers later I manage to get suitable tension on it.
Spare tyre on, everything away and we are going again.
A quick look at the map and there is nothing on our intended route that looks like it might have a replacement tyre. So we u-bolt back to Borroloola, it’s a NT public holiday today, but hopefully we can get a new tyre tomorrow.
On reflection, bloody glad I got that fried chicken! If you see good fried chicken don't pass it up, you never know when you'll need those greasy calories...
Rolling into Borroloola we see another couple with the Patrol that we’ve run into the last few days, around Lorella. We have a laugh and swap stories. Come the morning I tell them I hope not to see them again (joke).
...
The local auto store is the sort of thing you dream about in this situation. Stocked better than most city stores, not with the fluff, but with stuff you might actually need. Mother and daughters run front of house, and were more knowledgeable than most auto store workers I’ve run into. While the guys did the workshop stuff out the back.
A choice of four or five different types of tyres in my size - probably the main reason I stick with the standard size - went with the Cooper, BFG not being an option. It sets me back $396. All of this is strangely reminiscent of last time a destroyed a tyre.
That was on the way back from Arkaroola in the Flinders Ranges, that time the town was Copley. Again about four tyres to choose from, I also choose the Cooper - which is now on the car, and again just under $400 for the tyre. Anyway, as well as the tyre I grabbed all new bolts for both rear shocks. We were good to go again.
So why is this called 'Look On The Bright Side'? Well, if this had happened pretty much anywhere else we had been the last few weeks it could have been a (much) bigger headache. It also justifies somewhat the belt and braces approach I took to packing and preparing for this trip. This sort of situation, is why you lug around all that gear to get you out of trouble.
So we make it to Heartbreak Hotel and turn the truck due south. Down through the (Gnarls) Barkly Tablelands.
Rufant
Well-known member
Well if we were looking for a contrasting environment to what we had been in, you couldn’t find a more different one.
It appears grazed within an inch of its life, yet judging by the amount of cattle, and ‘beef bus’ road trains we saw. It seems to support a pretty significant amount of cattle.
My original plan was to check out a couple of bush camps along this route, which we duly did and neither of them had any appeal apart from sucking down dust and flies for the rest of the arvo. So we decided to push on to the town of Camooweal, just over the border in Queensland.
Sun setting behind us, as we head due east.
You never know what you are going to get with these little country towns, some are basically ghost towns, where others are pretty vibrant.
I told N I was dreaming of a pub, with a balcony, only so we could sit down to a good meal with the pooches outside. And you know what? That’s exactly what we found. Bloody good food too (it seems the town is a major stop off for roadtrains, judging by the amount parked up in the dedicated lot).
Thanks for reading.
It appears grazed within an inch of its life, yet judging by the amount of cattle, and ‘beef bus’ road trains we saw. It seems to support a pretty significant amount of cattle.
My original plan was to check out a couple of bush camps along this route, which we duly did and neither of them had any appeal apart from sucking down dust and flies for the rest of the arvo. So we decided to push on to the town of Camooweal, just over the border in Queensland.
Sun setting behind us, as we head due east.
You never know what you are going to get with these little country towns, some are basically ghost towns, where others are pretty vibrant.
I told N I was dreaming of a pub, with a balcony, only so we could sit down to a good meal with the pooches outside. And you know what? That’s exactly what we found. Bloody good food too (it seems the town is a major stop off for roadtrains, judging by the amount parked up in the dedicated lot).
Thanks for reading.
Rufant
Well-known member
Heading East.
Queensland. Australia.
...
More dirt road wandering the next day.
I had been eyeing up a place called ‘Adels Grove’ on the map. Visualising a rough and ready outback stopover. What it turned out to be was another slick ‘resort camp’. This one full of self important whinging baby boomers, who don't understand the concept of queuing...“Shocking dirt road in, it took us three hours to drive sixty kilometres...”
(this isn't a general comment on baby boomers, this place just seemed to attract a certain type)/rant.
We just stayed the one night and bailed the next day.
Old man Rollo caught up on his snoozing.
...
Lawn Hill Gorge. This is why the oldies come I presume. You can hire a kayak or take a cruise.
After taking the ‘shocking’ (normal) dirt road out for a while, we peeled off onto the route less travelled.
Eventually back on the bitumen, we headed east to the town of Normanton.
Not before stopping at the site of Camp 119.
The last camp on the famous and ill-fated Burke and Wills Expedition.
We stopped in Normanton for a couple of nights. There had been a lot of moving recently, not to mention this was our first place with proper internet since Darwin. So it was good to get some of this journal you’re reading done (I try not to get too far behind, you lose motivation if it’s too long ago when, you’re writing about I find), catch up with mates, etc.
$20/night, nice lady. That's just my note about where we stayed. She didn't charge us much because we were in a tent, and 'don't use power and water like the caravaners do'. I'm not complaining.
This is supposedly a replica of the largest croc ever shot up here (back when they were hunted). Over eight metres.
Last edited:
Rufant
Well-known member
We were heading to Cairns. The main city in Far North Queensland. We could either go the bitumen main road, or the longer dirt road. We went dirt (obviously).
Again we had hoped for a bushcamping spot along this route. The only ‘official’ one was at the base of a riverbank, literally a few metres between that and the large river, in prime croc territory, that alone wouldn’t have bothered me too much but it just wasn’t a great camp. We pushed on, but the signage left you in no doubt that pulling up just off the road and pretending ignorance to the rules wasn’t going to wash. So again we ended up pushing on to the next small town, Chillagoe.
An RBT (Random Breath Test) on the way into town, I had a good chat with the copper, about having chats with coppers at these things. We both agreed you have to ‘pick you targets’ these days if you don’t want a bit of light hearted banter to turn sour. Shame, but that’s the world folks. He was only in town because the rodeo was on. I thought the next morning I would have actually liked to have gone to a country rodeo, never have done, but was so bushed after a big drive and pushing on to get off the cattle strewn (we estimate we saw over a million dollars worth of cattle that day alone) dirt road before dark, I didn’t even think about it.
...
We had booked an Airbnb in Cairns, after living out of a tent for three months straight it seemed like a good opportunity to spend a few nights in an actual bricks and mortar dwelling before heading back into the outback.
(Well we didn’t quite nail the booking as planned... as we booked it a day later than intended, and then when we thought we were staying for three nights, at about midday after the second night the host politely enquired as our plans for that day, which was a nice way of saying when are you guys leaving as I have other guests coming... Ah well, ******** happens)
So we needed another nights camp before hitting Cairns.
So a short but extremely picturesque drive the next morning to the small town of Dimbulah. From here we were planning to head out to an old historic mine that has been turned into a bush camp. We had service so I called ahead to see if they were open. Which us just as well, as they were not permitted for anyone to camp there now. Too much to fix up after the wet season apparently- Queensland has copped all manor of extreme weather this year, with the flooding being the worst - although those events would indirectly shape the next part of our trip...
So we just stayed in Dimbulah. I was over trying to find bush camps and everything around here seems to be in a National Park, so no good with the dogs. Anyway, Dimbulah turned out to be a charm of a place (plus the apple sour cream cake from the cafe was probably the best cake I have had in a long time, and a bit like art, I'm not really a cake guy...).
Had a good chat with Dean. A retired ambulance officer, originally from South Australia. He was full of good conversation. They were getting ready for the big weekend next weekend when the annual wheelbarrow racewould come through the town. Exciting stuff.
I cooked one of my favourite camp foods that night. After picking up some skirt steak from the butcher in Warburton. Had to cook some beef at some point after seeing all those cattle.
Carne Asada! (hat-tip to my pal Tim from Dirt Sunrise, who seemed to exist off this dish when he went camping, and got me started on it). I changed it up from the normal soft tortilla style, to chilli cheese beans, salad and Mission's wicked chilli and lime tortilla chips.
A dry rub instead of a marinade this time. Use what you've got!
...
Such a change in scenery in this part of the world. As you get near the east coast the green rocky hills slowly become lush rainforest and sugarcane farms.
So, we finally roll into Cairns. Which feels very clean and shiny, especially compared to us.
Our Cruiser sporting the 'been places, seen stuff, ******** happened' look (high in the back, as I'd been running down he fuel and water as we got closer to the big smoke).
I treat Bertha to the first car wash we’ve seen since Darwin. We eat Chinese dumplings. N stocks up on yarn. I get stuff to service the car. Big city life.
Again we had hoped for a bushcamping spot along this route. The only ‘official’ one was at the base of a riverbank, literally a few metres between that and the large river, in prime croc territory, that alone wouldn’t have bothered me too much but it just wasn’t a great camp. We pushed on, but the signage left you in no doubt that pulling up just off the road and pretending ignorance to the rules wasn’t going to wash. So again we ended up pushing on to the next small town, Chillagoe.
An RBT (Random Breath Test) on the way into town, I had a good chat with the copper, about having chats with coppers at these things. We both agreed you have to ‘pick you targets’ these days if you don’t want a bit of light hearted banter to turn sour. Shame, but that’s the world folks. He was only in town because the rodeo was on. I thought the next morning I would have actually liked to have gone to a country rodeo, never have done, but was so bushed after a big drive and pushing on to get off the cattle strewn (we estimate we saw over a million dollars worth of cattle that day alone) dirt road before dark, I didn’t even think about it.
...
We had booked an Airbnb in Cairns, after living out of a tent for three months straight it seemed like a good opportunity to spend a few nights in an actual bricks and mortar dwelling before heading back into the outback.
(Well we didn’t quite nail the booking as planned... as we booked it a day later than intended, and then when we thought we were staying for three nights, at about midday after the second night the host politely enquired as our plans for that day, which was a nice way of saying when are you guys leaving as I have other guests coming... Ah well, ******** happens)
So we needed another nights camp before hitting Cairns.
So a short but extremely picturesque drive the next morning to the small town of Dimbulah. From here we were planning to head out to an old historic mine that has been turned into a bush camp. We had service so I called ahead to see if they were open. Which us just as well, as they were not permitted for anyone to camp there now. Too much to fix up after the wet season apparently- Queensland has copped all manor of extreme weather this year, with the flooding being the worst - although those events would indirectly shape the next part of our trip...
So we just stayed in Dimbulah. I was over trying to find bush camps and everything around here seems to be in a National Park, so no good with the dogs. Anyway, Dimbulah turned out to be a charm of a place (plus the apple sour cream cake from the cafe was probably the best cake I have had in a long time, and a bit like art, I'm not really a cake guy...).
Had a good chat with Dean. A retired ambulance officer, originally from South Australia. He was full of good conversation. They were getting ready for the big weekend next weekend when the annual wheelbarrow racewould come through the town. Exciting stuff.
I cooked one of my favourite camp foods that night. After picking up some skirt steak from the butcher in Warburton. Had to cook some beef at some point after seeing all those cattle.
Carne Asada! (hat-tip to my pal Tim from Dirt Sunrise, who seemed to exist off this dish when he went camping, and got me started on it). I changed it up from the normal soft tortilla style, to chilli cheese beans, salad and Mission's wicked chilli and lime tortilla chips.
A dry rub instead of a marinade this time. Use what you've got!
...
Such a change in scenery in this part of the world. As you get near the east coast the green rocky hills slowly become lush rainforest and sugarcane farms.
So, we finally roll into Cairns. Which feels very clean and shiny, especially compared to us.
Our Cruiser sporting the 'been places, seen stuff, ******** happened' look (high in the back, as I'd been running down he fuel and water as we got closer to the big smoke).
I treat Bertha to the first car wash we’ve seen since Darwin. We eat Chinese dumplings. N stocks up on yarn. I get stuff to service the car. Big city life.
Rufant
Well-known member
I had hoped to get the car service done at the Airbnb, but it just wasn’t that sort of place. Also once we got ‘evicted’ (joke, it was totally our mistake) we bailed to a caravan park, what could go wrong?
Well the remnants of the cyclone that had been hanging around hit that night in the form of rain, lots of rain.
Met Michael, with two mini Yorkshire Terriers. Who had been living with dementia the last ten years or so. Travelling for the last three. Woke up one day couldn’t walk, couldn’t talk. Probably caused by childhood trauma apparently.
He was pretty jovial about it considering...
Lake Placid (Australia).
One of the reasons I wanted to stay another day in civilisation, was I wanted to do some trip planning for the next stage. Lake Eyre, was filling up. It seems South Australia was calling us back...
Cape York? Not this time. I feel that's more of a trip in itself. Plus our tyres are well past their best, we were managing a few issues on the Cruiser, and more importantly we weren't really feeling it at this stage.
...
Slightly wet pack-down, but not too bad. I guess that's one of the big differences camping in Oz vs UK. In Australia you are almost guaranteed that tent will be dry a few hours after setting it up that afternoon.
That day we headed south-west. A misty mountains drive through the central highlands, not an area that gets much publicity. Fine with us.
First free camp in quite sometime. Hopefully it would be mostly back roads and bushcamps between here and Lake Eyre.
I got most of the service done on Bertha that afternoon, with the parts I had bought in Cairns. That should be the last one between here and home.
Well the remnants of the cyclone that had been hanging around hit that night in the form of rain, lots of rain.
Met Michael, with two mini Yorkshire Terriers. Who had been living with dementia the last ten years or so. Travelling for the last three. Woke up one day couldn’t walk, couldn’t talk. Probably caused by childhood trauma apparently.
He was pretty jovial about it considering...
Lake Placid (Australia).
One of the reasons I wanted to stay another day in civilisation, was I wanted to do some trip planning for the next stage. Lake Eyre, was filling up. It seems South Australia was calling us back...
Cape York? Not this time. I feel that's more of a trip in itself. Plus our tyres are well past their best, we were managing a few issues on the Cruiser, and more importantly we weren't really feeling it at this stage.
...
Slightly wet pack-down, but not too bad. I guess that's one of the big differences camping in Oz vs UK. In Australia you are almost guaranteed that tent will be dry a few hours after setting it up that afternoon.
That day we headed south-west. A misty mountains drive through the central highlands, not an area that gets much publicity. Fine with us.
First free camp in quite sometime. Hopefully it would be mostly back roads and bushcamps between here and Lake Eyre.
I got most of the service done on Bertha that afternoon, with the parts I had bought in Cairns. That should be the last one between here and home.
Rufant
Well-known member
Turning Around...
Queensland, Australia.
Well, early signs were promising. An absolute beauty of a trail through the hills, between Irvine Bank and Mount Garnet. Nothing difficult, but just rolling dirt tracks. I put Bertha in low range at times, we were still heavy with fuel, etc, so it just takes the load off.
The weather seemed to change depending which way you were facing, but not by much. We came across this billabong, not marked on any of my maps, and high in the hills.
Popping out at the historic mining town of Mount Garnet, we were soon back on back roads. Another gem of alternative route, through wooded cattle stations and a recently formed National Park.
This was one of four river crossings in a row.
I eased into it, eased out again as it started to go deeper than it looked. Having learnt my lesson from Cape Arnhem, I put it in low range and popped in the centre diff lock, better safe than sorry. The deepest the crossings got was about halfway up the door on the Cruiser, no worries but I bet it would raise the old heart rate in a Subaru.
Rufant
Well-known member
We were headed for a bush camp on the Einasleigh River, but time (and energy) was getting away from us now being late afternoon. Not too mention, the bush camp was an 80km detour. Sometimes you’re just at the right place at the right time. So the small campground behind the Oasis Roadhouse suited us just fine, especially at $20/night (which is about evens in fuel cost with the detour).
A simple yet tasty dinner that night. Belly pork braised in white wine. We had a few different greens we had bought in Cairns so I just quickly cooked them in the braising liquor. Then reduced that down, seasoned with a little fish sauce and garnished with young ginger and a splash of olive oil. Healthy, tasty, and just used up things we had on hand.
I dug this 30 year old Winnebago camper.
...
Come next morning as I turned the key to start the Cruiser nothing happened “did you not turn it far enough?” asked N. I tried it again and it fired up no problem “maybe...” I said. Strange...
Today we just took the Kennedy Development Road, with no back road options heading the right direction, this main arterial country road, a mixture of dirt and bitumen would get us going in the right direction.
Not that it wasn’t without its surprises.
A good size black headed python we think. Didn't want to hang around once we stopped.
Next town was Hughenden. We notice it was polling day for the general election. Naomi was keen to take part in democracy if we could, but more importantly first to the bakery. More starting troubles outside the bakery, but she did fire up. Round to the polling booth, so while N investigated if we could vote here I could investigate what was going on.
The symptoms were the same as a flat battery or a bad connection to the starter, both possible after all the rough road riding we had done. At first I thought it was the latter, as a wiggle of the cable showed some movement. I put a socket on it, completely tight, the play was just in the plastic cover. I pulled out the multimeter, its battery was flat. Thankfully were in a small town and a shop is open, so I walk round a buy some new batteries.
Battery voltage checks out. I pull out the Thumper (second battery) and hook that up with jumper cables and try starting again, in case the main battery is doing funny things (a multimeter voltage reading is not a load test after all). Still no go.
I check the voltage at the starter - same as the battery.
Maybe the starter is jammed? But I had that out not that long ago back in WA and it looked fine, no real wear, no reason for it to be jammed.
I check fuses. Change the starter relay. Nothing.
I take it out of Park and put it in Neutral. It starts right up.
I turn it off. Put it back in Park, nothing. Back in Neutral, nothing, go again, it fires.
Ok, must be the inhibitor switch (the thing that stops you starting the car in Drive or Reverse, also called isolator switch, neutral switch, etc). Maybe the four mid-door water crossings yesterday finished it off. Maybe it was the what? 20? 30? Others we had done coming across the Top End. Maybe after 18 years it had just had enough...
Anyway, I wasn’t game to turn it back off again.
[I sometimes wonder if the spike of adrenaline you get when something goes wrong out here, is part of the appeal? There is definitely real satisfaction in fixing problems out on the road. That you happened to bring the right tools/spares/skills to get you (or someone else) going again - just a thought, I added this bit in several days later, I wasn't mulling things over reflectively at the time!]
Thinking it would be a relatively simple fix or bypass, I drive on in the direction we wanted to go. Sticking to the bitumen now, we didn’t need any other problems today.
Arriving in Winton some 200km later, this looked, on the map at least, a big enough town to have phone service, maybe a Toyota dealer. As it turns out it had none of these things... Everything from here south-west (our direction of travel) was smaller, and more remote. The smart decision was to drive 175km in the ‘wrong’ direction. To Longreach, the biggest town for miles.
We stopped to check it a couple of free camps on the way, but holy-moley they were busy. With large type RV’s, I didn’t realise this part of Outback Queensland was so popular- as it turns out, this was the weekend of the Longreach Show, hence the flocks.
We rolled into Longreach after hours, but the nice people who run the (frankly massive) ‘tourist park’ got up to book us in.
Also warning us that there is an outbreak of parvovirus in the town. Our dogs are immunised against it, unfortunately there was not and was currently quarantined at the local vets fighting for her life and costing $500/day. We sincerely with them all the best for her recovery and go set up camp.
As usual the tent area is almost empty. Although there is an ADV biker tour, camp next to us. It was one of those fully supported jobbies, where a truck carries everything, someone does the cooking, etc. You just turn up and ride, talk ******** and drink beer at night. I have to say that I looked quite appealing in a way. Maybe I should learn to ride a moto like every other middle aged bloke...
I crawled under the Cruiser that night and checked out the troublesome switch. Using the compressor I gave the connector a good blow out, but no water came out, shame. I tried re-adjusting it, and that seemed to do the trick. In Neutral anyway...
...
Next morning back to nothing, no matter where the gear selector was. I was hoping the wiring to the switch would be two or three wires at most, and so easy to bypass, but no, there was probably ten wires in the connector. The wiring diagram told me which should be the ones to isolate the starting circuit, but it would mean hacking up the factory wiring, no thanks.
There was a Toyota dealer here, let’s just wait till Monday.
As well as studying the wiring diagram overnight, it also occurred to me to just do what I had done several times on other people’s cars, and just hot-wire the starter motor. I knew the starter had main voltage, we just needed the solenoid to kick in. So a wire from that connector straight to the + on the battery and up she fired. Tie the wire off for next time. Once again, the benefits of sleeping on a problem...
We stayed two nights in Longreach which wasn’t so bad. We got the update on the dog situation. Plus a bit more writing this journal whilst we had the old internet. I took the opportunity to have a good look round the Cruiser. I found a small amount of play in one of the rear wheel bearings (the hub service is well overdue, but not a 'side of the road' job so I just check them every few thousand k's), so I tweaked up the adjuster on that side.
Whilst I had the use of a camp kitchen, I cooked up the rest of the pork belly. Pork Paella.
Hot and Sour pork curry.
...
Come Monday morning, I arrived at the Toyota at 0805. After their website declared the parts department was open from eight. “Oh the parts guy doesn’t start till eight thirty” said the nice girl on the early shift, whilst the ‘manager’ didn’t even look up from his very important computer screen business. I left details of what I needed and my VIN and phone numbers. Nice girl did give me the information I needed though, as I was pretty confident the part wouldn’t be in stock. 3 days out of Brisbane. 5 days out of Sydney.
So I went and picked up N and the dogs, we packed up our gear and restocked at the supermarket. I put a call into Alice Springs Toyota, as by now it was about 10am. Knowing the Alice Toyota would be switched on to this sort of situation, and knowing their turn around time was about the same (having been there last year). We could make our way cross-country in the time it took to part to ship. They texted me the schematic so we could both confirm we had the right part, and order was placed. Hopefully available Friday, dependent on the shipping agent. Understood. Sweet.
I never did get a call from Longreach Toyota.
So, hot-wiring our way to Alice Springs it is. Let’s take the scenic route.
A simple yet tasty dinner that night. Belly pork braised in white wine. We had a few different greens we had bought in Cairns so I just quickly cooked them in the braising liquor. Then reduced that down, seasoned with a little fish sauce and garnished with young ginger and a splash of olive oil. Healthy, tasty, and just used up things we had on hand.
I dug this 30 year old Winnebago camper.
...
Come next morning as I turned the key to start the Cruiser nothing happened “did you not turn it far enough?” asked N. I tried it again and it fired up no problem “maybe...” I said. Strange...
Today we just took the Kennedy Development Road, with no back road options heading the right direction, this main arterial country road, a mixture of dirt and bitumen would get us going in the right direction.
Not that it wasn’t without its surprises.
A good size black headed python we think. Didn't want to hang around once we stopped.
Next town was Hughenden. We notice it was polling day for the general election. Naomi was keen to take part in democracy if we could, but more importantly first to the bakery. More starting troubles outside the bakery, but she did fire up. Round to the polling booth, so while N investigated if we could vote here I could investigate what was going on.
The symptoms were the same as a flat battery or a bad connection to the starter, both possible after all the rough road riding we had done. At first I thought it was the latter, as a wiggle of the cable showed some movement. I put a socket on it, completely tight, the play was just in the plastic cover. I pulled out the multimeter, its battery was flat. Thankfully were in a small town and a shop is open, so I walk round a buy some new batteries.
Battery voltage checks out. I pull out the Thumper (second battery) and hook that up with jumper cables and try starting again, in case the main battery is doing funny things (a multimeter voltage reading is not a load test after all). Still no go.
I check the voltage at the starter - same as the battery.
Maybe the starter is jammed? But I had that out not that long ago back in WA and it looked fine, no real wear, no reason for it to be jammed.
I check fuses. Change the starter relay. Nothing.
I take it out of Park and put it in Neutral. It starts right up.
I turn it off. Put it back in Park, nothing. Back in Neutral, nothing, go again, it fires.
Ok, must be the inhibitor switch (the thing that stops you starting the car in Drive or Reverse, also called isolator switch, neutral switch, etc). Maybe the four mid-door water crossings yesterday finished it off. Maybe it was the what? 20? 30? Others we had done coming across the Top End. Maybe after 18 years it had just had enough...
Anyway, I wasn’t game to turn it back off again.
[I sometimes wonder if the spike of adrenaline you get when something goes wrong out here, is part of the appeal? There is definitely real satisfaction in fixing problems out on the road. That you happened to bring the right tools/spares/skills to get you (or someone else) going again - just a thought, I added this bit in several days later, I wasn't mulling things over reflectively at the time!]
Thinking it would be a relatively simple fix or bypass, I drive on in the direction we wanted to go. Sticking to the bitumen now, we didn’t need any other problems today.
Arriving in Winton some 200km later, this looked, on the map at least, a big enough town to have phone service, maybe a Toyota dealer. As it turns out it had none of these things... Everything from here south-west (our direction of travel) was smaller, and more remote. The smart decision was to drive 175km in the ‘wrong’ direction. To Longreach, the biggest town for miles.
We stopped to check it a couple of free camps on the way, but holy-moley they were busy. With large type RV’s, I didn’t realise this part of Outback Queensland was so popular- as it turns out, this was the weekend of the Longreach Show, hence the flocks.
We rolled into Longreach after hours, but the nice people who run the (frankly massive) ‘tourist park’ got up to book us in.
Also warning us that there is an outbreak of parvovirus in the town. Our dogs are immunised against it, unfortunately there was not and was currently quarantined at the local vets fighting for her life and costing $500/day. We sincerely with them all the best for her recovery and go set up camp.
As usual the tent area is almost empty. Although there is an ADV biker tour, camp next to us. It was one of those fully supported jobbies, where a truck carries everything, someone does the cooking, etc. You just turn up and ride, talk ******** and drink beer at night. I have to say that I looked quite appealing in a way. Maybe I should learn to ride a moto like every other middle aged bloke...
I crawled under the Cruiser that night and checked out the troublesome switch. Using the compressor I gave the connector a good blow out, but no water came out, shame. I tried re-adjusting it, and that seemed to do the trick. In Neutral anyway...
...
Next morning back to nothing, no matter where the gear selector was. I was hoping the wiring to the switch would be two or three wires at most, and so easy to bypass, but no, there was probably ten wires in the connector. The wiring diagram told me which should be the ones to isolate the starting circuit, but it would mean hacking up the factory wiring, no thanks.
There was a Toyota dealer here, let’s just wait till Monday.
As well as studying the wiring diagram overnight, it also occurred to me to just do what I had done several times on other people’s cars, and just hot-wire the starter motor. I knew the starter had main voltage, we just needed the solenoid to kick in. So a wire from that connector straight to the + on the battery and up she fired. Tie the wire off for next time. Once again, the benefits of sleeping on a problem...
We stayed two nights in Longreach which wasn’t so bad. We got the update on the dog situation. Plus a bit more writing this journal whilst we had the old internet. I took the opportunity to have a good look round the Cruiser. I found a small amount of play in one of the rear wheel bearings (the hub service is well overdue, but not a 'side of the road' job so I just check them every few thousand k's), so I tweaked up the adjuster on that side.
Whilst I had the use of a camp kitchen, I cooked up the rest of the pork belly. Pork Paella.
Hot and Sour pork curry.
...
Come Monday morning, I arrived at the Toyota at 0805. After their website declared the parts department was open from eight. “Oh the parts guy doesn’t start till eight thirty” said the nice girl on the early shift, whilst the ‘manager’ didn’t even look up from his very important computer screen business. I left details of what I needed and my VIN and phone numbers. Nice girl did give me the information I needed though, as I was pretty confident the part wouldn’t be in stock. 3 days out of Brisbane. 5 days out of Sydney.
So I went and picked up N and the dogs, we packed up our gear and restocked at the supermarket. I put a call into Alice Springs Toyota, as by now it was about 10am. Knowing the Alice Toyota would be switched on to this sort of situation, and knowing their turn around time was about the same (having been there last year). We could make our way cross-country in the time it took to part to ship. They texted me the schematic so we could both confirm we had the right part, and order was placed. Hopefully available Friday, dependent on the shipping agent. Understood. Sweet.
I never did get a call from Longreach Toyota.
So, hot-wiring our way to Alice Springs it is. Let’s take the scenic route.
Rufant
Well-known member
The Flooded Desert.
Outback Queensland. Australia.
Here is a little map for those not familiar with Australian geography. We've come across the top west to east, Kununurra, Darwin, out to Nhulunbuy. Then Borroloola and across to Cairns where the pin is. Where we turned around and started heading south-west, detouring to Longreach. Just for reference.
Heading south-west out of Longreach to Windorah. Topping off the fuel, got chatting to the lady at the servo, who the recounted numerous tales of ‘the worst Toyota dealer in the country’, not just me then.
Then due west, heading to Birdsville. We catch our first glimpses of the green swathe that is cutting through this usually dry and barren land.
We considered camping at Deon's Lookout. Great view, although somewhat windy and more to the point there was no getting a tent peg in up here.
So we pressed on to the Beetoota Hotel, or whatever was left of it. Marked on the map as ruins.
On arrival it was clear the hotel was ruins no more. Someone had fully restored it and spent (a lot) of money on the place. Yet the sign on the way into town said population 0 and there was no-one there. Stickers on the truck round the back said opening August 2018. Had it really gone bust already, after so much had been invested?
Anyway, it made for some good photo opportunities.
The yellow bus is apparently the sister bus to the more famous one near Cameron Corner - which apparently ended up getting buried (!) as the bloke who's property it was on got sick of all the rubbish around it - that's the world we're in...
[As it turns out (I got the low down at the Tourist Information/word on the street in Birdsville) it is still in the process of being restored, it is costing more than they thought... (really? out here? expensive?) and is only open for the desert races and functions. Word on the street - the old boy that owned it left it to the station over the river (we were picking up WiFi signals from there whilst we were camped!), also the Polish guy that used to run it was hiding out there from the law. Ha! Gotta love the outback! Whatever, still seems like a bloody marginal business case to my eyes, but what do I know. Apparently the road used to run right past it (as it shows on the map), now it’s a few km detour, plus only 160km from arguably the most iconic pub in Australia. Anyway, best of luck to them, they certainly haven’t half-arsed the resto]
Outback Queensland. Australia.
Here is a little map for those not familiar with Australian geography. We've come across the top west to east, Kununurra, Darwin, out to Nhulunbuy. Then Borroloola and across to Cairns where the pin is. Where we turned around and started heading south-west, detouring to Longreach. Just for reference.
Heading south-west out of Longreach to Windorah. Topping off the fuel, got chatting to the lady at the servo, who the recounted numerous tales of ‘the worst Toyota dealer in the country’, not just me then.
Then due west, heading to Birdsville. We catch our first glimpses of the green swathe that is cutting through this usually dry and barren land.
We considered camping at Deon's Lookout. Great view, although somewhat windy and more to the point there was no getting a tent peg in up here.
So we pressed on to the Beetoota Hotel, or whatever was left of it. Marked on the map as ruins.
On arrival it was clear the hotel was ruins no more. Someone had fully restored it and spent (a lot) of money on the place. Yet the sign on the way into town said population 0 and there was no-one there. Stickers on the truck round the back said opening August 2018. Had it really gone bust already, after so much had been invested?
Anyway, it made for some good photo opportunities.
The yellow bus is apparently the sister bus to the more famous one near Cameron Corner - which apparently ended up getting buried (!) as the bloke who's property it was on got sick of all the rubbish around it - that's the world we're in...
[As it turns out (I got the low down at the Tourist Information/word on the street in Birdsville) it is still in the process of being restored, it is costing more than they thought... (really? out here? expensive?) and is only open for the desert races and functions. Word on the street - the old boy that owned it left it to the station over the river (we were picking up WiFi signals from there whilst we were camped!), also the Polish guy that used to run it was hiding out there from the law. Ha! Gotta love the outback! Whatever, still seems like a bloody marginal business case to my eyes, but what do I know. Apparently the road used to run right past it (as it shows on the map), now it’s a few km detour, plus only 160km from arguably the most iconic pub in Australia. Anyway, best of luck to them, they certainly haven’t half-arsed the resto]
Rufant
Well-known member
So, we take those 160km to Birdsville. We didn’t have to come this way, there is no way through (south or east) from Birdsville currently, even this road only opened four days ago. However, we’ve never been to this iconic outback town and especially now, it’s worth a visit.
Indigenous art installation en-route.
Sand dunes, flood waters and greenery.
These two 'overland' trucks were parked next to each other in Birdsville. Just a coincidence apparently, despite the fact they were made by the same mob. I got chatting the bloke with the white one. He started off in a VW camper, then a Troopy and now this. When I quizzed him on the restrictions of getting it down any track with trees on it his response was "we've done all that, the extra comfort is what we want now" which is fair enough. They make a bit more sense when you put it like that. For older folk.
I'm still not sure what you do with this one though...
We started to drive down here to check out another Burke and Wills tree, but despite dry on top the surface was soft and squidgy underneath. I could tell this because I got out and walked the track - something I neglected to do a couple of weeks later, with predictable results...
We had dinner at the iconic Birdsville Hotel that night.
The artesian water supply on our way out of town. Being cooled off before it can be used.
Even the road north had a detour.
Well worth it as it takes you past Lake Machattie. I spot a track heading down towards the lake and take it.
Bloody spectacular. Seeing all this water in what would normally be a dry desert. It also really shows just how much water is making its way across the country. This water fell as devastating floods arounds Townsville, some 1500 km away, back in February.
I remark to N that this feels like redemption for all the dry lakes and river beds we've visited over the years. Driving around the arid parts of Australia it is easy to imagine these lakes and river never fill. So being here now, and seeing this part of nature in action, is a privilege and a rare treat.
https://www.instagram.com/rufant_adventures/
Indigenous art installation en-route.
Sand dunes, flood waters and greenery.
These two 'overland' trucks were parked next to each other in Birdsville. Just a coincidence apparently, despite the fact they were made by the same mob. I got chatting the bloke with the white one. He started off in a VW camper, then a Troopy and now this. When I quizzed him on the restrictions of getting it down any track with trees on it his response was "we've done all that, the extra comfort is what we want now" which is fair enough. They make a bit more sense when you put it like that. For older folk.
I'm still not sure what you do with this one though...
We started to drive down here to check out another Burke and Wills tree, but despite dry on top the surface was soft and squidgy underneath. I could tell this because I got out and walked the track - something I neglected to do a couple of weeks later, with predictable results...
We had dinner at the iconic Birdsville Hotel that night.
The artesian water supply on our way out of town. Being cooled off before it can be used.
Even the road north had a detour.
Well worth it as it takes you past Lake Machattie. I spot a track heading down towards the lake and take it.
Bloody spectacular. Seeing all this water in what would normally be a dry desert. It also really shows just how much water is making its way across the country. This water fell as devastating floods arounds Townsville, some 1500 km away, back in February.
I remark to N that this feels like redemption for all the dry lakes and river beds we've visited over the years. Driving around the arid parts of Australia it is easy to imagine these lakes and river never fill. So being here now, and seeing this part of nature in action, is a privilege and a rare treat.
https://www.instagram.com/rufant_adventures/
Rufant
Well-known member
Time to make some kilometres.
Our day spent in and around Birdsville, meant there was no dilly dally now between here and Alice Springs. I wanted to get there before Friday to hopefully pick up the switch from Toyota, and we still had a good 1000km on unknown dirt roads ahead of us. After Lake Machattie we pushed on through Bedourie, and Boulia. The hard left, and west. Across the Plenty Highway, to Alice.
On the way...
A whole tour group of cyclists - when we first drove round (west) Australia, I think we saw one, maybe two cyclists. As with most things out here it is much more popular now. Most we see seem to be having a good challenge, the occasional one doesn't look to be enjoying it very much at all...
Still plenty of water and greenery up this way.
Outback humour.
We camped that night on the banks of the Georgina River.
There has been water through here too it seems. Although some time ago.
The wild budgerigars keeping an eye on us.
'Budgees' are a popular pet where we are from in the UK. Once you see the flocks of these vibrant and vivacious birds in the wild, you would never lock them up. Who puts birds in cages anyway..?
Rufant
Well-known member
Sunrise. It's good being in the bush.
Mad lighting against the clouds as we hit the Plenty Highway again that morning, still pushing west.
There was a huge amount of birds in general on the highway that morning, no doubt population explosions due to the water across the country. So unfortunately there was some of Darwin’s theory happening on the Land Cruiser's front bumper too...
A road-train came along at just the right time for my 'regular tourist' photo.
And another...
The Plenty Highway was one of those roads that just gets you from A to B. There didn't seem to be much worth stopping for along it, not that we really had the time anyway. Pretty rough in parts too, has to be said.
It feels little surreal to be back in the Red Centre at the end of this AWOL trip. As this was our first destination, eight and a bit months ago.
We consider stopping at Gemtree, and doing some fossicking, as we've never done it before. But the appeal of grass and no flies for a change, means we push on to Alice.
Feels very familiar rolling into Alice. Almost like we’re locals... It is not a big place so easy to remember your way around. As my phone came back into service a text message from Toyota was waiting for me. So we head there to pick up the new inhibitor switch. We then book into the the same park we stayed at last time. The park is bursting to the seams as we are coming into peak touring season in Australia. So we're glad to get a spot as there is not bush camping around Alice.
So we take a day in Alice Springs. After I fit the inhibitor switch. I give the Cruiser another good look over, and find another rear shock is in trouble (it was still working fine, just the cover had come un-welded). So I fit the remaining TJM spare - that I bought in Alice when we were here last year, and by chance we were in exactly the same camp spot then, changing out rear shockys... So I now still have the two serviceable Ridepro shocks and two nearly new TJM’s on the truck. Let’s hope it’s enough.
We share some food with the locals.
I manage to knock out two parts of this journal, a bit rushed, but I know this is going to be it for reception for some days at least, and I’m already playing catch-up after coming across the Top End. Same issue with lack of reception. First world problem, for sure...
We stock and fuel up before leaving Alice. Ignoring the Stuart Highway, we take the route I was planning to take back last time we were here (but took the highway, because Alby was crook, R.I.P. little man). This route is the old Ghan Railway line (the modern version is still called that, after the Afghan Cameleers, that opened up this part of the country). Also the route for the Finke Desert Race that is due to take place in a few weeks. We see a few competitors practicing the route (and support trucks come thundering past us) which basically runs more or less alongside the road (if you ever seen those motocross/mtb tracks that people have made in the roadside verge, this is basically that, turned up to 11).
Lunch stop in this dry river bed. Yes, I used low range on the way out.
Camel tracks.
An easy but rough dirt road brings us to the turn off for Chambers Pillar, and some big sky country.
A - there and back detour - as there is not a road through. Now the corrugations are just sandy, as opposed to rocky, I stop to let some air out of the tyres.
Hmmm, the rear BFG is looking pretty ordinary. I didn’t look that closely at the tyres whilst in Alice but now airing down I can see that all the BFGs are not great. Nothing really to be gained by swapping a front tyre with the back (the fronts used to be the backs after all). The Cooper on the other side, whilst looking much more battered than when it went on a few weeks ago, still has plenty of tread. Let’s get to camp and reevaluate then.
Mad lighting against the clouds as we hit the Plenty Highway again that morning, still pushing west.
There was a huge amount of birds in general on the highway that morning, no doubt population explosions due to the water across the country. So unfortunately there was some of Darwin’s theory happening on the Land Cruiser's front bumper too...
A road-train came along at just the right time for my 'regular tourist' photo.
And another...
The Plenty Highway was one of those roads that just gets you from A to B. There didn't seem to be much worth stopping for along it, not that we really had the time anyway. Pretty rough in parts too, has to be said.
It feels little surreal to be back in the Red Centre at the end of this AWOL trip. As this was our first destination, eight and a bit months ago.
We consider stopping at Gemtree, and doing some fossicking, as we've never done it before. But the appeal of grass and no flies for a change, means we push on to Alice.
Feels very familiar rolling into Alice. Almost like we’re locals... It is not a big place so easy to remember your way around. As my phone came back into service a text message from Toyota was waiting for me. So we head there to pick up the new inhibitor switch. We then book into the the same park we stayed at last time. The park is bursting to the seams as we are coming into peak touring season in Australia. So we're glad to get a spot as there is not bush camping around Alice.
So we take a day in Alice Springs. After I fit the inhibitor switch. I give the Cruiser another good look over, and find another rear shock is in trouble (it was still working fine, just the cover had come un-welded). So I fit the remaining TJM spare - that I bought in Alice when we were here last year, and by chance we were in exactly the same camp spot then, changing out rear shockys... So I now still have the two serviceable Ridepro shocks and two nearly new TJM’s on the truck. Let’s hope it’s enough.
We share some food with the locals.
I manage to knock out two parts of this journal, a bit rushed, but I know this is going to be it for reception for some days at least, and I’m already playing catch-up after coming across the Top End. Same issue with lack of reception. First world problem, for sure...
We stock and fuel up before leaving Alice. Ignoring the Stuart Highway, we take the route I was planning to take back last time we were here (but took the highway, because Alby was crook, R.I.P. little man). This route is the old Ghan Railway line (the modern version is still called that, after the Afghan Cameleers, that opened up this part of the country). Also the route for the Finke Desert Race that is due to take place in a few weeks. We see a few competitors practicing the route (and support trucks come thundering past us) which basically runs more or less alongside the road (if you ever seen those motocross/mtb tracks that people have made in the roadside verge, this is basically that, turned up to 11).
Lunch stop in this dry river bed. Yes, I used low range on the way out.
Camel tracks.
An easy but rough dirt road brings us to the turn off for Chambers Pillar, and some big sky country.
A - there and back detour - as there is not a road through. Now the corrugations are just sandy, as opposed to rocky, I stop to let some air out of the tyres.
Hmmm, the rear BFG is looking pretty ordinary. I didn’t look that closely at the tyres whilst in Alice but now airing down I can see that all the BFGs are not great. Nothing really to be gained by swapping a front tyre with the back (the fronts used to be the backs after all). The Cooper on the other side, whilst looking much more battered than when it went on a few weeks ago, still has plenty of tread. Let’s get to camp and reevaluate then.