Axle upgrades for a 92 Range Rover??

[Funrover]

I want to re-gear and lock my Rover. Currently the front is the original 10 spline (which I will get rid of either way) and the rear is a 24 spline. I am running a 295 75 16 tire. This is not a daily driver anymore, though I take on the streets and around town I no longer drive it everyday.Another thing I do is tow a camper semi often and with all of that I have been looking heavily into 2 options.

The first is the Toyota conversion with an ARB. From what I have found I have 2 gear choices I am considering. 4.56 and 4.88. While off road the 4.88 would be great for crawling and harder obstacles I worry that I would have no on road manners. The 4.56 would be great on highway and for flat pulling but may struggle more in the mountains.


The second one I am considering is the GBR diffs with an ARB. The bolt up is more simple, and they seem to have fixed the r&p deflection issue. As with the toy set up I am in between 2 gears 4.43 and 4.71. The 4.71 seems like a great ratio, pretty much where I want to be overall... I think.

Any tips, suggestion or ideas? Thanks

 

[Red90]

If you stay with Rover centers, I would look at Ashcroft's new R&Ps. Lots of ratios and much stronger than stock, plus Rovertracks CV's and axles.

 

[evilfij]

Toy front, Salisbury rear. More than 4.1 will make highway a challenge.

 

[Snagger]

Series Land Rovers use 4.71 diffs, and post 1980 they had 24 splines, so to do a cheap and easy job, you could just fit a pre 1980 SII/SIII diff and a post 1980 SIII (88" front or rear, 109" front only) diff. They fit straight in with no alterations - the only oustanding job would be your speedo calibration, though with those big tyres it might not be far out enough to be necessary.

 

[Funrover]

Series Land Rovers use 4.71 diffs, and post 1980 they had 24 splines, so to do a cheap and easy job, you could just fit a pre 1980 SII/SIII diff and a post 1980 SIII (88" front or rear, 109" front only) diff. They fit straight in with no alterations - the only oustanding job would be your speedo calibration, though with those big tyres it might not be far out enough to be necessary.

You are making me wish I was in the UK for parts.

 

[Funrover]

Toy front, Salisbury rear. More than 4.1 will make highway a challenge.

4.10 wouldn't even get me back to original equivalent from what I have seen. Guess I will have to go back and do my math again

 

[Funrover]

If you stay with Rover centers, I would look at Ashcroft's new R&Ps. Lots of ratios and much stronger than stock, plus Rovertracks CV's and axles.

I will check them out, thanks!

 

[Fivespddisco]

I am running a 295 75 16 tire.

Another thing I do is tow a camper semi often

The first is the Toyota conversion with an ARB.


Any tips, suggestion or ideas? Thanks

The tire size you have is a 33.5. We all know tire manufactures lie so you may want to measure it on the truck. With that ratio and what you are asking for I would get 4.37 If you are going to drive it down the hiway 4.12s may be the way to go.
If you said to me you do not care at all about hiway speed and only want low gears the the 4.75s are it. With that said on true 33in tires our truck with 4.75s and a 5speed was at 2800 rps doing 45-50 ish. True 35s on the same truck put it back to stock and the speedo was 1mph off to the GPS. keep I mind we have an extra gear.

The trailer comment leads me to think you are going to tow it on the hiway. So I'm thinking 4.37s you have some up hill power but you will be revy at speeds.

The Toy swap is a very strong upgrade but with that tire size I don't think you will need to go that far.

 

[Fivespddisco]

Series Land Rovers use 4.71 diffs, and post 1980 they had 24 splines, so to do a cheap and easy job, you could just fit a pre 1980 SII/SIII diff and a post 1980 SIII (88" front or rear, 109" front only) diff. They fit straight in with no alterations - the only oustanding job would be your speedo calibration, though with those big tyres it might not be far out enough to be necessary.

All true but that R&P is not very strong and will not last in his set up with a V8. They were made for a 2.25 and a much lighter truck.

 

[evilfij]

4.10 wouldn't even get me back to original equivalent from what I have seen. Guess I will have to go back and do my math again

Do the math again. For a 33-34, 4.10 is perfect and available in both toy (cheap gear set found stock) and sals (just grab a set out of a Dana 60).

 

[Snagger]

All true but that R&P is not very strong and will not last in his set up with a V8. They were made for a 2.25 and a much lighter truck.

The same diffs were still used in the latest RRCs until it was dropped, coupled to a 4.2l V8 (or more in the Overfinch case), the only changes being the later 24 splines and the gearing ratio. Pegging the diffs works wonders, though, as most diff failures seem to be stripping the crown wheel teeth and pegging eliminates this. You can also use the 4-pin diff carrier from the P38 in the original casing with the standard crown wheel and pinion if you need the extra strength.

 

[I Leak Oil]

Save yourself some money. Get a pair of Dodge D60s, regear them, lock them, and throw them under your Range Rover. It would be easy enough (for a fab shop) to retrofit the axle to your factory suspension. The rear D60 is centered but it's been done many times with ill effect. As you say, it is not a daily driver. With a centered rear pinion, you can still travel at highway speeds.

D60 parts are cheap and plentiful, even in BFE.

Then you can gear it even taller and run 35s or 37s.

I don't know for sure but I would think that would actually be more expensive? By the time you buy the axles, new gears, lockers, install kits, probably have to do a brake job, pay a shop for the install of the axles, make the steering work, rework the driveshafts that sounds like it could be expensive. If you pay someone to do the regear that's even more. Since you're now running a huge pumpkin axle then you probably do want a 35 or bigger set of tires, rover wheels won't fit on a D60 so you might be spending more on those too.
I just don't see it saving any money over fitting stronger shafts and chunks to the rover case. Not to mention you're now running a wider axle and will, in most states, need to cover the tire that extends beyond the body.

 

[David Harris]

I don't know for sure but I would think that would actually be more expensive? By the time you buy the axles, new gears, lockers, install kits, probably have to do a brake job, pay a shop for the install of the axles, make the steering work, rework the driveshafts that sounds like it could be expensive. If you pay someone to do the regear that's even more. Since you're now running a huge pumpkin axle then you probably do want a 35 or bigger set of tires, rover wheels won't fit on a D60 so you might be spending more on those too.
I just don't see it saving any money over fitting stronger shafts and chunks to the rover case. Not to mention you're now running a wider axle and will, in most states, need to cover the tire that extends beyond the body.

x2. These swaps sound inexpensive and easy on paper, but having done quite a few on Jeeps, I can say that it would be way more work and money on a Rover in reality. I think the Rover axles are fine for most anything reasonable when upgraded.

David

 

[Fivespddisco]

The same diffs were still used in the latest RRCs until it was dropped, coupled to a 4.2l V8 (or more in the Overfinch case), the only changes being the later 24 splines and the gearing ratio. Pegging the diffs works wonders, though, as most diff failures seem to be stripping the crown wheel teeth and pegging eliminates this. You can also use the 4-pin diff carrier from the P38 in the original casing with the standard crown wheel and pinion if you need the extra strength.

It is the same but they did not come with the series 4,75 R&P. That was what I was talking about.

 

[Green96D1]

Do the math again. For a 33-34, 4.10 is perfect and available in both toy (cheap gear set found stock) and sals (just grab a set out of a Dana 60).

that the setup im going to be soon running.

4.10 ashcroft front rover gear.
and toyota diff in the back its a 4.10 already with a ARB locker.

I have 33x10.5 BFG and i think 4.10 is a good gear ration.