Back again with another craigslist 4x4 advice post.

DanF.

Adventurer
Hi all, I'm still on the prowl for a decent (within my dwindling college-student price range) 4wd vehicle for light expedition/off-roading, beach cruising, etc. I just came upon this 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe: https://galveston.craigslist.org/cto/5597488949.html

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I've emailed the owner with some questions about the Tahoe: mileage, interior condition/photos, service history (claims he's the only owner...)

Anyways, what pros/cons do you guys see in this ad that stand out, and what questions should I be asking about the Tahoe?

Thanks.
 
Clean looking truck. What you questioned him about is what I would have done too.

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patoz

Expedition Leader
Judging by the amount of rust I can see on the trailer hitch, the frame, the running boards, and the corrosion on the rims, I would say that truck has been in, or very near, salt water. A little surface rust on the frame doesn't hurt anything, but that looks pretty excessive and I would take a very serious look underneath at the floor pans, fender wells, and the body in general.
 

DanF.

Adventurer
I'm going to drive by and take a look at it today, and then meet up with the owner tomorrow. I'll take a look at the areas you suggested, and the interior. The Tahoe is located in Galveston, or rather, on Galveston Island, so it has likely had lots of exposure to the sea breeze.

I'm not very familiar with the GMT400 platform, but I'll try to take in everything I can see this afternoon.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Well, good luck with it!

It's just that I would hate to buy it and get it home, only to find a bunch of hidden problems later on.
 

DanF.

Adventurer
Here's some pictures from a few minutes ago. It was parked along a fairly busy road, and the lighting was pretty crappy for cell-phone pics. I saw a lots of surface rust, but it didn't look deep in any spot on the frame that I could see. The nerf bars and brush guard did have a bunch of corrosion, and I'd be worried about the galvanic corrosion where those aftermarket parts are bolted to the frame. The interior was kind of dirty, and the leather seats were cracked and torn. I'm not looking for a pristine DD, but it would be nice to be sitting in a comfortable seat. Owner wants $2800, and I was thinking of starting at $2200, but now I wonder if it's even worth going back for a drive and look under the hood.

I thought 1997s had the push-button 4wd system?

Would the floor-mounted transfer case lever be more reliable?

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cyclic

Adventurer
Seat replacement covers are easy but figure on $7-800 for a good pair of real leather. I have a 99 version of that exact truck. The rust is not too bad for a costal truck, but it's more than this central Texas guys likes. The 97-99 Vortec motors are some of the best GM ever produced, most common problems are intake gaskets and the injector spyder. Both of which might or might not have been replaced already.
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
Not terrible for the price. Expected corrosion for living on the ocean. Same for the interior leather, frankly. Plan on some salvage seats or seat covers.

Expect ~~200k mi. Expect that if you drive it hard and full time that you'll need engine and trans work in a couple years, unless it's been recently worked over.

I see fairly new tires, that offsets a lot of the wear in the pricing.

If it was to be a recreational vehilce, a part time driver, and/or you are able to do a lot of mechanical work yourself, it seems a decent deal.

oh and you WANT the floor shifter, over the push-button. (which I think started with the 800 series in 2000
 

DanF.

Adventurer
The rust is not too bad for a costal truck, but it's more than this central Texas guys likes.


Not terrible for the price. Expected corrosion for living on the ocean.

Expect ~~200k mi. Expect that if you drive it hard and full time that you'll need engine and trans work in a couple years, unless it's been recently worked over.

I see fairly new tires, that offsets a lot of the wear in the pricing.

If it was to be a recreational vehilce, a part time driver, and/or you are able to do a lot of mechanical work yourself, it seems a decent deal.

In your opinions, does the frame/undercarriage look solid enough to last +/- 3 years?



oh and you WANT the floor shifter, over the push-button. (which I think started with the 800 series in 2000

Is it the same transfer case vs. push-button versions? Where can I get more detailed info of this Tahoe's 4wd system?
 
Not sure on the SUVs, but some of the trucks had push-button 4x4 starting in '96.

Seeing as its a manual transfer case, you will have an NP241, which is the manual version of the NP243, which is the push-button 4x4 (not to be confused with the Np246, which is the autotrac)

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DanF.

Adventurer
Not sure on the SUVs, but some of the trucks had push-button 4x4 starting in '96. If you look on the dash, to the lower right of the steering wheel, you'll see a panel with switches on it. If it has 3 switches its a normal 4x4 system. Itll also say autotrac
Also, look on the transfer case. If it says NP243, its a regular system. If it says NP246, its autotrac.
Seeing as its a manual transfer case, you will have an NP241, which is the manual version of the 243.

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Well, it's a 1999, and I can see the floor shifter in the pics, but just trying to figure out the specs of the vehicle.
 
Well, it's a 1999, and I can see the floor shifter in the pics, but just trying to figure out the specs of the vehicle.

Yeah, post edited. It will have an NP241 transfer case, probably with a 4L60E, 8.5" rear axle, 8.25" ifs, and whatever engine is in it.

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DanF.

Adventurer
Yeah, post edited. It will have an NP241 transfer case, probably with a 4L60E, 8.5" rear axle, 8.25" ifs, and whatever engine is in it.

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Thanks for the info!

Would I need the VIN# to see if it has a LSD?
 
No, look on the rpo list in the glove box. If it has posi, you will see the code G80. However, it is very possible to see all the stuff the vehicle has by using a VIN decoder like compnine.

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mnewxcv

Observer
beware of rust. It may be surface on the frame and body, but that kind of rust might be eating away brake lines and stiffening up calipers, stuff like that. Not a big deal to fix, but if you aren't expecting it it is.
 

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