Balkan – In Search of Midsummer - 2025

HiPERnx

Member
Balkan – In Search of Midsummer - 2025
Translated from the Swedish original posted on the website of Swedish Expedition Society (SWES): “Balkan – På jakt efter midsommar”

A few years back i posted a Overland Trip Report about another Balkan trip, focusing on Montenegro and Bosnia & Herzegovina (found here). This time the focus is on Kosovo, Albania and North Macedonia.
The vehicles was a Toyota 79 series and a Jeep WJ.
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Like many journeys that start from Sweden, this one also begins in Nynäshamn, aboard the ferry heading southward. A necessary evil. Our plan for the first few days was simple: push as far south as possible. We were mentally prepared for long days on the road.

The feeling when the ship leaves port is hard to describe; it is always the start of something bigger. You know the adventure has officially begun.

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Already the first morning offered experiences. The proximity to Russia became evident in Gdańsk, where we noticed GPS interference. We would have preferred the ferry to arrive earlier in the day, but once in port we were lucky to be among the first to disembark. Navigation was set toward Katowice, almost directly south. Poland’s well-developed motorway network made the trip fast, if not especially inspiring.

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The next day began even more grandly, with dramatic views through the Tatra Mountains. But the further south we went, the flatter the landscape became. The day’s aim was Novi Sad in northern Serbia.



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Last stop before leaving the EU

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Novi Sad, Serbia


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The Real Adventure Begins

Once in Novi Sad, it felt like the real adventure had begun. We were finally in the Balkans, and from now on the pace would slow. The next day we continued south to spend our first night in nature, at an old abandoned airfield. The first night of a trip always feels slightly strange — routines haven’t settled yet — but despite that it was a good start.

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Then we headed toward Pristina in Kosovo. That night we treated ourselves to a centrally located hotel. Pristina exceeded our expectations with fantastic food and an exciting nightlife. Despite the previous evening’s endeavors, we managed some sightseeing before the journey continued toward Albania.

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Library, Pristina, Kosovo

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Albania and Midsummer

With our sights set on Albania and midsummer celebrations, we began looking for a fine place to camp. The first night was spent up in the mountains, where routines now felt more settled. It was a fantastic day on narrow, winding roads. However, the day was not without problems. The Jeep developed issues with its mechanical cooling fan. At first it ran too often, and after an adjustment in Novi Sad it began running too late, letting the engine become too hot.

In the Albanian mountains this became a serious issue, and the fan had to be locked manually to keep the temperature at a reasonable level. Once in camp we made one final adjustment, and thereafter it worked perfectly.

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Lunch break

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Border, Kosovo–Albania

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On midsummer’s Eve we had found a spot by an artificial lake. But getting there was dramatic. We followed an overgrown track along a ridgeline which soon became more and more eroded by water. Eventually the road was so bad we had to turn back. For the Jeep it was easier, but for the wider Toyota it was a serious challenge. With cliffs on both sides and steep tilt, we had to lean into the vehicle to prevent it from tipping.

After hours of effort we managed to turn both vehicles and find a better route. A learning experience: many cooks don’t always make a better soup, but the camaraderie was strengthened. A bit later than planned we reached our campsite and were finally able to set our midsummer table.

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HiPERnx

Member
From Coast to Highlands

Midsummer Day began slowly, as is tradition. We spontaneously decided to drive to the coast and enjoy a day at the beach in Durrës. Without a hotel booked, we gambled and eventually found one with parking, and had a night of both sea bathing and comfort.

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Next, we drove toward Ohrid in North Macedonia. The border crossing from Albania was barely noticeable, and soon we were on perfect, newly paved roads. Ohrid lay beautifully on a lake with crystal-clear turquoise water, a welcome contrast to the Albanian coast’s heat.

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The next day we climbed into North Macedonia’s highlands, a landscape reminiscent of Romania or Montenegro. Endless grasslands where you drive more by compass than map. The first night was spent atop a mountain, around 2,000 meters above sea level. The temperature was cooler, but welcomed after the heat.

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The route continued through winding mountain roads, so twisty that one hardly advanced on the map. The roads hugged the mountainsides, into ravines and out again, with cliffs constantly present on one side. Finally we reached higher terrain and made camp with a view over Skopje’s outskirts.

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Final Day Together

On the last day we made our way toward Skopje. Here our paths would part. The Toyota would continue toward Turkey and the Jeep would return home. But first one last adventure: a visit to Matka Canyon, where we cooled off in icy mountain water — a welcome relief in 40-degree heat. A fitting conclusion to a shared journey full of experiences, challenges, and memories.

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Irony that Macedonia has no coast, but a pirate ship.

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Skopje
 

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