Ballistic vs. Johnny Joints

AlexJet

Explorer
Ballistic Joints.
Is this fine that I can't push the grease through the joint (between the ball and nylatron racer)? It looks like the gap is so tight that air from inside the joint doesn't have way to escape. This was one of the reasons I had to open them up - to pack grease in. Any advise on this matter?
 

jesusgatos

Explorer
I ran the JJ's when I had my TJ. I loved them. You cannot go wrong with anything Currie puts out.
I'd have to disagree. I was REALLY disappointed with the high-pinion Dana 60's that I had Currie build for one of my old Jeeps. Wouldn't ever buy anything from them again.

Custom 3-Link on the back.


BTW, I've seen 2 different aproaches to the system. Which one is better? (Note that lower links are paralel to the frame rails)

1. The upper (3rd Link) is 70% of the length of the lower links.

2. The lower links are 80-85% of the lengthof the upper (3rd Link). Phisically it means that you have 3rd Link frame mount at about the same level as right lower link frame mount.

I'm reading many articles in Internet, but can't find the amnswer which aproach is better.
What are the benefits of each point of view vs. the other?
Why are you building custom links? What are you hoping to accomplish? How much wheel travel? What about shocks? Not too familiar with the 4th gen 4Runners, but I know the stock links on the 3rd gen 4Runners were not too bad (talking about geometry). If it were me, I'd just build some HD replacement links and call it good. Put your time into building some nice shock mounts and I bet it will cycle a12-13" clean.
 

AlexJet

Explorer
Why are you building custom links? What are you hoping to accomplish? How much wheel travel? What about shocks? Not too familiar with the 4th gen 4Runners, but I know the stock links on the 3rd gen 4Runners were not too bad (talking about geometry). If it were me, I'd just build some HD replacement links and call it good. Put your time into building some nice shock mounts and I bet it will cycle a12-13" clean.

Stock links are limiting the travel and they catch fuel tank.
I made myself longer adjustable links and got more travel and moved axle 1" back.
With latest 3-Link I have even more travel (15"+ with 35s or 20"+ with 33s) and axle moved back 1 more inch, and no fuel tabk issues any more.
 

jesusgatos

Explorer
Then you must be measuring articulated wheel travel? No way you can cycle 15" of vertical wheel travel with the stock shock mounts. That was why I was saying you ought to think about re-working the shock mounts.
 

AlexJet

Explorer
Then you must be measuring articulated wheel travel? No way you can cycle 15" of vertical wheel travel with the stock shock mounts. That was why I was saying you ought to think about re-working the shock mounts.

This was measured at the wheel in upper and lower point with 35s, which limit uptravel as the wheelwell doesn't allow full wheel in (I have 5" bumpstop drop)
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
Ballistic Joints.
Is this fine that I can't push the grease through the joint (between the ball and nylatron racer)? It looks like the gap is so tight that air from inside the joint doesn't have way to escape. This was one of the reasons I had to open them up - to pack grease in. Any advise on this matter?

2 out of the 4 forged Ballistic Joints I used on my adjustable upper rear control arms are the same. Called BJ but talking to those guys, at least their first layer of customer service, is always a little too "hang 10" (some might construe "STONED") for me to get anywhere:Wow1:.

Anyway the guy told me the 'zirk must not be lined up': No shart sherlock!

So I need to yank them and see if a little die grinder work can be done to create a channel for grease to better migrate from the ball as the ball/cup position changes over time, relative to the position of the zirk, from wear/tightening. All they need to do is provide a lateral relief/channel in the casting for grease to migrate to the ball. This assumes, of course, I don't have a couple of bad zirks which would be rare.

But they are SOOOOOO much better than OEM rubber and/or poly it isn't even close. So even if I have to remove them to grease them they're still worth this trade-off!
 

AlexJet

Explorer
I loosen ring a bit to the point so I can push the grease out of race. This is the only way to make them work and not squick.
 

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