Base Camp Trailer Build
- Thread starter rwingnut
- Start date
Google it Research
Master of Disaster
Great build!
texasnielsen
Outdoorsman
looking forward to seeing your progress. Looks like it will be a nice setup from the initial pictures.
Wingnut,
Trailer looks great, quality is fantastic, but I have one concern. Your tongue is totally depending on the welds to where it attaches to the main frame, IE the ends of the triangle to the main frame.
Please do not take this as negative. I maybe all wet on this, but from the photos this is what I see. If it is as I think it is a hours worth of work that will end any concern.
I would suggest you tie the main runner to the main frame and run it back to the first cross member behind the front bumper area. A lot of stress in the design there. Especially if you plan to use a box or heavily load the front triangle. I have seen this idea used before and seen catastrophic results.
I am anxious to see how it continues to develop.
Trailer looks great, quality is fantastic, but I have one concern. Your tongue is totally depending on the welds to where it attaches to the main frame, IE the ends of the triangle to the main frame.
Please do not take this as negative. I maybe all wet on this, but from the photos this is what I see. If it is as I think it is a hours worth of work that will end any concern.
I would suggest you tie the main runner to the main frame and run it back to the first cross member behind the front bumper area. A lot of stress in the design there. Especially if you plan to use a box or heavily load the front triangle. I have seen this idea used before and seen catastrophic results.
I am anxious to see how it continues to develop.
rwingnut
Observer
Skersfan, I appreciate your input. I think I understand which joint you are referring to, at least this is the joint that is most critical. But, a picture is worth a 1000 words, even a blurry one:
I'm not sure I understand the fix that you are suggesting. I am considering putting a reinforcing plate on the top and bottom of this joint though.
Since the stress caused by bending on this joint is going to be proportional to the tongue weight, you are right, putting a heavy load here will really increase the stress. I have to keep this area open to open the FJ rear door so I have no intention of putting anything here. I am planning on a tongue weight on the order of 120lb, so I'm not expecting a lot of bending stress. If I have any concern it would be in tension, yanking this thing over obstacles.
I am interested in the catastrophic results that you've seen, as I'd rather not learn the hard way. Let me know if you think I'm overlooking something. Thanks again.
I'm not sure I understand the fix that you are suggesting. I am considering putting a reinforcing plate on the top and bottom of this joint though.
Since the stress caused by bending on this joint is going to be proportional to the tongue weight, you are right, putting a heavy load here will really increase the stress. I have to keep this area open to open the FJ rear door so I have no intention of putting anything here. I am planning on a tongue weight on the order of 120lb, so I'm not expecting a lot of bending stress. If I have any concern it would be in tension, yanking this thing over obstacles.
I am interested in the catastrophic results that you've seen, as I'd rather not learn the hard way. Let me know if you think I'm overlooking something. Thanks again.
Yes that is the area of concern, and I have seen trailers break right there. The tongue is the main piece to be concerned with, the side rails stop twist so to speak, by running the tongue to the cross member behind the circled area you relieve a lot of stress and tie the trailer more together. Normally the tongue is the largest of the steel in the frame, I use 2.5 with 1/4 inch walls, basically a receiver, from the front to a cross member back about 3 foot into the trailer.
This area also gets a lot of spring action, from the bridge of the hitch to the wheels. The longest span on the trailer. It appears you have used more than adequate box tubing so it might not be a problem. I need to go back through the build and look at it as it developed, I just glanced at it going through a couple of weeks ago.
Plates over the top and under will most likely do the job.
Also there is a trick on the FJ to use a lesser length, by turning the truck to the Right at about 30-35 degrees the door will normally clear a 4 foot tongue set up. I learned it after I built my first box trailer. On mine it worked just the opposite of what I thought. That door is a pain in the butt a lot of times for sure.
This area also gets a lot of spring action, from the bridge of the hitch to the wheels. The longest span on the trailer. It appears you have used more than adequate box tubing so it might not be a problem. I need to go back through the build and look at it as it developed, I just glanced at it going through a couple of weeks ago.
Plates over the top and under will most likely do the job.
Also there is a trick on the FJ to use a lesser length, by turning the truck to the Right at about 30-35 degrees the door will normally clear a 4 foot tongue set up. I learned it after I built my first box trailer. On mine it worked just the opposite of what I thought. That door is a pain in the butt a lot of times for sure.
rwingnut
Observer
Build Update
I've finished my daughter's toy box (here's a pic), so now I can get back to working on my trailer. Plus, I had to get some extra mountain biking in before the NM forest closures.
First a pic of the chassis hitched up to my FJ.
I put some scrap plywood down on the chassis so that I could use it to haul some firewood down the hillside of my back yard. It worked well. Watching it in the mirror, it was squishy but not bouncy. Exactly what I was going for.
I've started adding the frame to the chassis:
I've gone back and forth on what I wanted to do with this frame and how I wanted to do the doors. Some of the things I wanted:
I want a rear tailgate that I can setup as the kitchen.
I don't want to have to lift a full cooler in and out over the side.
I don't want to have to crawl over stuff or crawl inside it to get stuff out.
I don't want the sides too high that I can't reach in it while standing on the ground
I've decided on a front and rear tailgate. The back for the kitchen and the front for the cooler
I've decided on 4 lift up doors with gas springs (front, back, left, and right).
I had considered 2 lift up doors, one front and one rear but was afraid of the complexity of the doors and the larger surface area to get caught by one of our wonderful NM gusts.
That's essentially 6 doors which is resulting in more weight, expense, and work, but it's the only thing I could come up with that meet all of my needs.
I've finished my daughter's toy box (here's a pic), so now I can get back to working on my trailer. Plus, I had to get some extra mountain biking in before the NM forest closures.
First a pic of the chassis hitched up to my FJ.
I put some scrap plywood down on the chassis so that I could use it to haul some firewood down the hillside of my back yard. It worked well. Watching it in the mirror, it was squishy but not bouncy. Exactly what I was going for.
I've started adding the frame to the chassis:
I've gone back and forth on what I wanted to do with this frame and how I wanted to do the doors. Some of the things I wanted:
I want a rear tailgate that I can setup as the kitchen.
I don't want to have to lift a full cooler in and out over the side.
I don't want to have to crawl over stuff or crawl inside it to get stuff out.
I don't want the sides too high that I can't reach in it while standing on the ground
I've decided on a front and rear tailgate. The back for the kitchen and the front for the cooler
I've decided on 4 lift up doors with gas springs (front, back, left, and right).
I had considered 2 lift up doors, one front and one rear but was afraid of the complexity of the doors and the larger surface area to get caught by one of our wonderful NM gusts.
That's essentially 6 doors which is resulting in more weight, expense, and work, but it's the only thing I could come up with that meet all of my needs.
rwingnut
Observer
It's still coming together, but going slow. Who knew an infant would be so much work. 
I'll post some more recent pictures of the progress. Thanks for reminding me.
The axle is a 3K lb Dexter. I ordered it from Redneck Trailer Supply with no camber and a hub-face to hub-face dimension that accounts for the wheel spacers that adapt it from lug centric to hub centric. It was a painless process and I got exactly what I wanted.
I'll post some more recent pictures of the progress. Thanks for reminding me.The axle is a 3K lb Dexter. I ordered it from Redneck Trailer Supply with no camber and a hub-face to hub-face dimension that accounts for the wheel spacers that adapt it from lug centric to hub centric. It was a painless process and I got exactly what I wanted.
rwingnut
Observer
Update
It's been awhile since I've posted some pictures.
Here it is with all the doors done and installed. I stuck the cooler in there for perspective. The front tailgate will open and I'll have the cooler roll out on a track with V-groove wheels. The tongue jack will attach at a different point so the door can actually open.
Because the doors are at a 45 deg. angle, I made rain gutters in an attempt to keep the water from running off the roof into the trailer. I'll seal the gutters with an auto body seam caulk. I haven't determined exactly which one. I'll stop by a local body shop supply place soon to figure that out. I'll want to do that before I paint it.
I've rolled it over on its side to make it easier to finish up the welds, add some brackets, and clean it up to get it ready to paint.
I've been talking to a local trailer place about skinning it. I don't have the skills, tools, or interest to do the sheet metal work. The pressure is on to get it painted before it gets to cold to paint.
It's been awhile since I've posted some pictures.
Here it is with all the doors done and installed. I stuck the cooler in there for perspective. The front tailgate will open and I'll have the cooler roll out on a track with V-groove wheels. The tongue jack will attach at a different point so the door can actually open.
Because the doors are at a 45 deg. angle, I made rain gutters in an attempt to keep the water from running off the roof into the trailer. I'll seal the gutters with an auto body seam caulk. I haven't determined exactly which one. I'll stop by a local body shop supply place soon to figure that out. I'll want to do that before I paint it.
I've rolled it over on its side to make it easier to finish up the welds, add some brackets, and clean it up to get it ready to paint.
I've been talking to a local trailer place about skinning it. I don't have the skills, tools, or interest to do the sheet metal work. The pressure is on to get it painted before it gets to cold to paint.
theBostonianX
Adventurer
Sweet garage
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
rwingnut
Observer
Painting
I've been working to get all the details done that are needed before I paint. I got them done and we had great weather last weekend for painting. Dry, warm, and no wind. I had intended to spray rust-oleum by thinning it and spraying with a cheap automotive spray gun. I've had good luck spraying rust-oleum in the past but was unsure of how it would hold up over the long run. Its a bit more critical since the skin will probably be bonded to the painted surface. I ended up going with the Sherwin Williams DTM Alkyd Enamel. The local trailer place had recommended it and the people at the local SW store actually know what they're talking about. Plus everything I read makes it sound like this is the right stuff for the job. It's a bit more expensive. It lists for $100/gallon, but if you ask, they can knock that down to $55/gallon. Still expensive but closer to the ~$10/qt for rust-oleum. It sprayed well and came out OK.
One thing to note, this stuff dries to the touch in a reasonable time, but takes 7 days to cure. 6 hours after I painted I could scratch the paint off with my fingernail. It's gotten a lot better in the last few days, but it makes it a challenge to handle since I'm using an engine hoist and chain to move it around.
I'll let it sit for a while. In the mean time, I've got some firewood to cut for the winter.
I've been working to get all the details done that are needed before I paint. I got them done and we had great weather last weekend for painting. Dry, warm, and no wind. I had intended to spray rust-oleum by thinning it and spraying with a cheap automotive spray gun. I've had good luck spraying rust-oleum in the past but was unsure of how it would hold up over the long run. Its a bit more critical since the skin will probably be bonded to the painted surface. I ended up going with the Sherwin Williams DTM Alkyd Enamel. The local trailer place had recommended it and the people at the local SW store actually know what they're talking about. Plus everything I read makes it sound like this is the right stuff for the job. It's a bit more expensive. It lists for $100/gallon, but if you ask, they can knock that down to $55/gallon. Still expensive but closer to the ~$10/qt for rust-oleum. It sprayed well and came out OK.
One thing to note, this stuff dries to the touch in a reasonable time, but takes 7 days to cure. 6 hours after I painted I could scratch the paint off with my fingernail. It's gotten a lot better in the last few days, but it makes it a challenge to handle since I'm using an engine hoist and chain to move it around.
I'll let it sit for a while. In the mean time, I've got some firewood to cut for the winter.