Battery post connector for multiple wires?

[SportsmanJake]

Can anyone recommend a clean solution? Something that looks nice?

I need a way to add 2 4awg wires to the positive terminal and 2 4awg wires to the negative terminal in addition to the stock vehicle connections.

One of the wires will go to a winch and the other to a fuse box.

Thanks

 

[Ducky's Dad]

Longer bolt through the clamp and copper ring lugs on the wire is the shade-tree way to do it. I have seen mil-spec battery post clamps that are designed for multiple leads, but have not used them. Blue Sea Systems probably has something suitable. Another possibility is to use a marine battery with an extra set of posts for attaching smaller loads like refrigerators and compressors. You can also buy marine post adapters that fit over the standard posts and give you an extra set of studs for miscellaneous connections. The marine posts are not designed nor intended for heavy loads like winches or for high-amp charging inputs.

 

[155mm]

There are a few options. You could connect a junction block, or they are a variety of battery post additions like http://www.waytekwire.com/item/78249/Battery-Busbar-Terminal-Mount/

 

[AeroMoto]

I've used these types on my CJ:

http://www.delcity.net/store/Flag-Barrel-Fusion-Battery-Terminals/p_804157

 

[toddz69]

As previously noted, the military terminals are really a nice sanitary way to do it:

http://www.stylepinner.com/military-battery-terminal-and/bWlsaXRhcnktYmF0dGVyeS10ZXJtaW5hbC1hbmQ/

I've used them for years on various vehicles without issue. I like being able to remove cables/wires from the connector without loosening the connector from the battery terminals.

Todd Z.

 

[4x4junkie]

×3 on the military ones. I fairly recently put a set of them on mine. Very easy to work with, though you will have to put eyelet connectors onto your vehicle's factory wires. I've seen both lead and zinc versions available, I used lead.

 

[Rezarf <><]

IMHO, the best solution is looking at car audio terminals. Good plating and set screw sockets for inserting wires, very clean, easy to install and work on.

I use something like these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PLATINUM-GOLD-MULTI-OUTPUT-HEAVY-DUTY-CAR-BATTERY-TERMINAL-CLAMP-0-4-8-AWG-/280790054144

 

[Hilldweller]

IMHO, the best solution is looking at car audio terminals. Good plating and set screw sockets for inserting wires, very clean, easy to install and work on.
...

X2

http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-BT4-Po..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=09JYMV5A3X0QBD9T0B8F
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ7U982?psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JK9FTLC?psc=1

 

[336]

More involved than most will want ,, but.

Coming from an Emergency Vehicle Upfitter background, I prefer minimal connections on the battery itself. Using a military terminal to a remote junction block post ( http://www.waytekwire.com/item/47226/3-8-Red-Power-Post-160A/)in in conjunction with a circuit breaker (http://www.waytekwire.com/item/48991/60A-Manual-Reset-3-8-Studs/ ) to make it dead simple to isolate and shut off everything that isn't necessary for the vehicle to run, for me is always the way to go.

Also feeding everything via a waterproof fuse block instead of a dozen inline fuses does wonders for keeping everything neat and tidy. Not everybody has the room or the desire to make it anything more than functional, but with a little investment of time, money and creativity you can easily get a really clean and safe end product.

 

[SportsmanJake]

×3 on the military ones. I fairly recently put a set of them on mine. Very easy to work with, though you will have to put eyelet connectors onto your vehicle's factory wires. I've seen both lead and zinc versions available, I used lead.

Thanks guys!

I am going with the military terminals.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A6AY1HFZHO49U

How do I add eyelets/ring terminals to my factory harness? I would need access to a big *** crimper wouldn't I?

Would it be worth giving this a shot?
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-D800-Ham..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0F9QWDFKVCJE3S8032AV

 

[toddz69]

Thanks guys!

I am going with the military terminals.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A6AY1HFZHO49U

How do I add eyelets/ring terminals to my factory harness? I would need access to a big *** crimper wouldn't I?

Would it be worth giving this a shot?
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-D800-Ham..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0F9QWDFKVCJE3S8032AV

You could use a big ***** crimper or perhaps lugs/solder pellets depending on the size of the wires/cables you're soldering.

Todd Z.

 

[Joe917]

Anyone who touches vehicle wiring would get a lot out of this:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

Here is everything you need to know for battery cable terminals:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables

I used the FTZ crimper on my build. Highly recommended.

You should fuse the positive cables as close to the battery as possible, Blue sea make some nice stuff.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

The Noco whack-a-mole crimper works OK on smaller cables, but I won't use mine on 1/0 or larger. Solder plugs seem to be the way to go.

 

[Forbye]

The terminals and crimper you posted are almost identical to what I used to build new battery cables. Get the terminal covers too.
I used welding lugs from Harbor Freight and added adhesive lined heat shrink.

 

[4x4junkie]

Thanks guys!

I am going with the military terminals.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A6AY1HFZHO49U

How do I add eyelets/ring terminals to my factory harness? I would need access to a big *** crimper wouldn't I?

Would it be worth giving this a shot?
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-D800-Ham..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0F9QWDFKVCJE3S8032AV

I always solder.
Some will argue to the end that crimped ends are better, however numerous experiences with them developing resistance in the connection consistently tells me otherwise, both with crimps I've done myself as well as with ones done by numerous different product OEMs (removing the possibility I hadn't done the crimp correctly).

With large terminals such as those on a battery cable, a propane torch set low works better than a soldering iron or gun...
Place a copper terminal into a holding fixture of some sort (vise, etc.) open end facing up, Put the end of the (clean) cable strands into the terminal, then heat the side of the terminal until solder flows all through the terminal and into the wire strands... Continue feeding solder into it until the entire space is filled with solder. Let cool, done (insulate it with shrink tubing if desired).