Yep. That's the way the ones on my other trucks are, male, like a standard extension cord plug. When I get the truck back I'll hit with a meter and see what comes up. I suppose it "could" be someplace to plug in an extension cord, but I REALLY don't see the point in that.
Belafonte Reboot....Ambulance to 4x4 Camper Conversion
- Thread starter tgreening
- Start date
Yep. That's the way the ones on my other trucks are, male, like a standard extension cord plug. When I get the truck back I'll hit with a meter and see what comes up. I suppose it "could" be someplace to plug in an extension cord, but I REALLY don't see the point in that.
Tom, great to hear that you're enjoying it and glad to see you decided to start/continue documenting the build on here. I meant to make that a condition of the sale.
No problem, though I have to admit, I am not the best in the world when it comes to photo documentation. Well, and no offense, but I might have to go through the paperwork for a legal name change. Not sure Belafonte is ringin my bell.
Bernard_Roofus
"Jackaroo of all trades"
Welcome to the ambo club! I am working on my 9th year of ambo ownership. Can't wait to see what you have in mind for it! As far as wiring, contact the manufacture. Road Rescue was nice enough to give me a copy of the build prints for mine.
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Can't remember the mfgr offhand, but I do recall that the PO tried that already, and we're pretty much SOL due to the age of the conversion. They don't maintain records that far back. HeySeuss, I've got customer records back into the 70's still. Oh well.
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flightcancled
Explorer
Belafonte Reboot....
Screwed as in that board is way more complex than my switch cluster. Swapping it would could get tricky fast.
There is a chance that your wiring is labeled like some of ours on the jacket with the function. That could tell you what the switch is for. (Or if there is one less than the number of switches it's a spare) another option is look on the board labels for the answer. Mine has a clearly labeled purpose at each relay and even shows the "extra" circuit.
Yeah your master is in effect a modular disconnect. Everyone is a little different. My master doesn't seem to anything.
The switch behind the drivers seat looks to be above a cluster of wires. If they are large gauge then odds are they are for the inverter or the battery maintainer. Usually the maintainer is under the seat or maybe in a compartment where it can be reached and vent. If it is hidden and pops the built-in fuse resetting it would be a pain.
I have the identical plug there, and next to my inverter/maintainer. Since these are all tied together and the maintainer and block heater come on when plugged in I assumed it was another plug to the same thing. No idea what else it would do.
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Screwed as in that board is way more complex than my switch cluster. Swapping it would could get tricky fast.
There is a chance that your wiring is labeled like some of ours on the jacket with the function. That could tell you what the switch is for. (Or if there is one less than the number of switches it's a spare) another option is look on the board labels for the answer. Mine has a clearly labeled purpose at each relay and even shows the "extra" circuit.
Yeah your master is in effect a modular disconnect. Everyone is a little different. My master doesn't seem to anything.
The switch behind the drivers seat looks to be above a cluster of wires. If they are large gauge then odds are they are for the inverter or the battery maintainer. Usually the maintainer is under the seat or maybe in a compartment where it can be reached and vent. If it is hidden and pops the built-in fuse resetting it would be a pain.
I have the identical plug there, and next to my inverter/maintainer. Since these are all tied together and the maintainer and block heater come on when plugged in I assumed it was another plug to the same thing. No idea what else it would do.
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Are you kidding? The only question is how high and how wide.
The big problem is going to be time. Summers pretty much belong to the wife, kids, and the fifth wheel camper. Winters are motivation killers in a big way these days. I just dumped 10 acres that was a landscaping maintenance nightmare, and moved into a place in a much better school district for the kids I never planned on having. The problem with that (for me) is I downsized big time on my garage space. I had two separate garages at the old property, with heat, a pair of lifts, and over 11,000 sq ft. Now I'm down to a house garage generously rated as a 2 car, that I couldn't fit my truck into if I drove it in using a bulldozer, and a separate 800 sq footer that my truck, welders, mower, 4-wheeler, etc live in.I have plans to expand the garage(s) but unfortunately the township I'm in now has rules about maximum size. Oh well. My city girl wife got herself the development community she wanted, and I got one where there is no HMO, and the neighbors aren't stacked on top of each other. Smallest lot here is 2 acres, ranging up to 5, and it's fairly rural. My wife is Japan born and raised so you can imagine the extent of her "city girl-ness".
I'd rather be someplace with NO rules (like before) and more acreage (like before), but without the landscaping maintenance. I like things more on the natural side. Easier to maintain. Unfortunately the school system sucked, we were running out of time, and this was as close as we could come to a compromise that we could both be happy (mostly) with. I bounced around to more schools than I can remember when I was a kid and I was determined to spare ours that sucky fate. It's not my "perfect" setup, and neither is it hers, but the school system is outstanding.
Anyway, 4x4 is definitely in the works, I just have to work out the direction. I like the simplicity of SRW, along with the much more extensive wheel/tire combo choices, but from a load carrying/stability stability standpoint it's hard to fault the DRW. A turbo is coming as well because I intend for this to pull duty hauling my Jeep around to various off-road events I want to get back into. It's got to have enough oompf for that, and enough ******** to carry that load. I'll get it to the scale when I get it back, and do the math, but even if a SRW specs out ok, I know I'm still going to be wishy-washy on what to do.
When it comes to lifts and tires and what-not, I'm all about proportion. My personal opinion is minimum amount of lift necessary to clear the tire desired, tire size being proportional to the truck. On a Jeep wrangler style, 40"+ tires start to make it look like some kind of tonka toy. Likewise an F series superduty ford with 8" of lift and 33" tires looks like a matchbox car. Even worse is when someone takes a truck and then lifts it to the point the fender well is COMPLETELY above the tire, because they chose a tire so big it didn't stand a chance of stuffing in the wheel well, and they'd rather lift it than massage the fenders to make the tires fit.
IMO, and it's just that, I think these ambo platforms are bulky enough that they look just about perfect on a 37" tire, give or take a bit. Given that, it seems the general solution is an 8" lift. In the rear that looks "fairly" ok, but up front, to me it seems to leave way too much empty wheel well showing. Especially considering that the front suspension up travel appears completely incapable of eating up that much clearance. I haven't been close enough to one to take actual measurements, but I'd be willing to bet that from a suspension travel standpoint you could just about get away with a 4" lift, 6" tops. I am more than willing to take a sawz-all to the fender wells (in a professional way) in order to fit 37s. Preferably with a 4" lift, 6" if needed. Keep in mind this is all based on "eyeball" via a whole bunch of internet pictures, but...I've been down this road before.
This is a 1983 CJ7 I built. In this picture it's riding on 37 12.5/15 Goodyears. I did this on a 6" SOA lift, which is supposed to be impossible on a CJ. But as long as you do your math, relocate some fenderwells, and are willing to hack up your fenders, it's doable. Anyone familiar with Jeeps is going to say...hey, that's a TJ!, untill they look closer. It's a CJ, with fenders modified to accept TJ flairs, and reap all the additional clearance that provided. I use the term hack loosely, they looked factory when I was done. Anyway, the mantra is all things in proportion.
Pros/Cons of SRW vs remaining DRW? Keep in mind I'm looking to carry a tongue load up to 1000lbs.
Excellent! Unbiased second opinion that I am indeed pretty much screwed. Hehe!
The wiring does appear to be labled. Mostly in English, but some of it unfortunately appears to be technical Klingon, at least it makes no sense to me.
My inverter/charger was just on the other side of that wall, but was relocated by the PO to the nearest external compartment. I haven't plugged in to shore power yet, but I have no reason to doubt it will function, so I'm not sure what that plug behind the seat is for. I don't recall that the wires were what I would consider large gauge. I'll check that out when I get the truck back.
Something just caught my eye in your post. My plug for shore power is just outside the drivers door, on the bit of the box that overhangs each side of the cab. Basically if there's a cord plugged in here, you can't open the door. Are you saying there's a possibility that I may have a block heater, wired through this rather than having the standard plug type connection up in the engine compartment area? I would SO like to hear that is how it works, cause I don't seem to see a block heater plug anywhere else, which really really surprised me.
patoz
Expedition Leader
Hi guys,
I’m new on here and have not posted before, but have been reading for about four months. I have a 1993 E350, 7.3 diesel engine, Type III Ambulance, built by Wheeled Coach. It is almost identical to the Belafonte with a few minor differences, such as the type of warning lights, etc. My project will be slightly different as I’m going to remove the cab, engine, transmission, front axle, etc. I will then add a tongue, coupler, tool box, etc. and make mine into a camper trailer which I will tow with a 2004 F250 Super Duty with the V10 Triton.
I haven’t started a thread on this yet because so far I would just be duplicating all of the work and pictures that CLynn85 has already posted in his original thread. Right now, I’m in the phase of pulling all of the ambulance module related wiring back from the cab and engine compartment, into the rear so they can be separated.
OK, enough background and the reason for my post on your thread. I’m a DoD District Fire Chief/EMT (retired), and I also operated ambulance units similar to these for ten years on the side. So, between my experience and now taking one apart, I may be able to answer some of your questions for you.
1. That unit is built by Wheeled Coach Ind. In Winter Park, Florida and they are the largest ambulance manufacturer in the country, however they are not the top of the line. I tried emailing them to get a wiring diagram or just a link to something on the internet, but did not even get a reply. http://www.wheeledcoach.com/contact/contact-info.htm
2. These units had the option of getting integrated or independent switches on the control panel, and we both have the integrated switches. The integrated switches are easier for the manufacturer to install and wire, therefore that option is cheaper but a pain to repair unless you have the right part. The integrated switch panels are propitiatory to Wheeled Coach, and so far I have not found a source for these either. Mine are configured differently, so I can’t tell you what your broken one is for.
3. Just about everything in/on the ambulance module is controlled by the 12VDC low amperage switches which activate higher amperage relays on the board behind the driver’s seat in the module. The Volt and Amperage meter, along with the Engine Idler and Voltage Monitor (mine) on the front control panel monitor the 12VDC electrical charging system when the engine is running and idling at the scene with all of its emergency lights in operation. If the system detects the current draw is causing a discharge state, the Engine Idler will raise the engine speed to approximately 1200 RPM to increase the charge rate. My vehicle has a 165 amp alternator, which is required for certification by the Federal Specification for the “Star-of-Life Ambulance,” KKK-A-1822 Standard.
The large rectangular hole is where the Electronic Siren Control Head was located. The Siren Amplifier itself is located in the rear on one of the electrical panels. If I recall correctly, Carl already removed it also. It cracks me up when people such as employees, sales people, etc. take (steal) equipment off of an out of service unit and grab the siren control head thinking they have a complete siren. BTW, if you redesign that panel and decide not to use that amp meter I sure would like to have it, because mine has been replaced by a piece of junk and I’ll be relocating most of this to the rear.
4. The Block Heater – The 120VAC circuit for the block heater starts at the back of the Shore Power inlet (recessed male) mounted on the driver’s side of the module just above the driver’s door handle, goes to the lighted house type wall switch behind the driver’s seat, and then to the yellow female receptacle under the hood. The block heater has a 3’ pigtail on it which plugs into this receptacle. Since the block heater is not normally needed in the summer time (ok, I’m in Florida), the switch allows it to be turned off. This circuit bypasses everything else 120VAC related in the module. I did not check mine with a meter and have already removed it, but I’ll double check tomorrow if it's not raining to make sure this is correct. Note! Apparently, a lot of people had problems with that circuit under the hood for some reason, and replaced it with a piece of orange extension cord. Mine was the same way.
5. The main battery disconnect switch is located on the left side of the driver’s seat, but I guess you already know that. Since mine is not running, I can’t verify this, but with the older vehicles I believe the engine will not start unless this switch is on. On March 1, 1999, Ford issued QVM Bulletin No. Q-63 which states...
Sorry for the slight derail at first, but since this was my first post I felt I needed to quantify my answers. I hope this helps, plus I've accumulated a lot more information and websites in the last four months that may help also. Just let me know.
~ Patrick (Pat)
I’m new on here and have not posted before, but have been reading for about four months. I have a 1993 E350, 7.3 diesel engine, Type III Ambulance, built by Wheeled Coach. It is almost identical to the Belafonte with a few minor differences, such as the type of warning lights, etc. My project will be slightly different as I’m going to remove the cab, engine, transmission, front axle, etc. I will then add a tongue, coupler, tool box, etc. and make mine into a camper trailer which I will tow with a 2004 F250 Super Duty with the V10 Triton.
I haven’t started a thread on this yet because so far I would just be duplicating all of the work and pictures that CLynn85 has already posted in his original thread. Right now, I’m in the phase of pulling all of the ambulance module related wiring back from the cab and engine compartment, into the rear so they can be separated.
OK, enough background and the reason for my post on your thread. I’m a DoD District Fire Chief/EMT (retired), and I also operated ambulance units similar to these for ten years on the side. So, between my experience and now taking one apart, I may be able to answer some of your questions for you.
1. That unit is built by Wheeled Coach Ind. In Winter Park, Florida and they are the largest ambulance manufacturer in the country, however they are not the top of the line. I tried emailing them to get a wiring diagram or just a link to something on the internet, but did not even get a reply. http://www.wheeledcoach.com/contact/contact-info.htm
2. These units had the option of getting integrated or independent switches on the control panel, and we both have the integrated switches. The integrated switches are easier for the manufacturer to install and wire, therefore that option is cheaper but a pain to repair unless you have the right part. The integrated switch panels are propitiatory to Wheeled Coach, and so far I have not found a source for these either. Mine are configured differently, so I can’t tell you what your broken one is for.
3. Just about everything in/on the ambulance module is controlled by the 12VDC low amperage switches which activate higher amperage relays on the board behind the driver’s seat in the module. The Volt and Amperage meter, along with the Engine Idler and Voltage Monitor (mine) on the front control panel monitor the 12VDC electrical charging system when the engine is running and idling at the scene with all of its emergency lights in operation. If the system detects the current draw is causing a discharge state, the Engine Idler will raise the engine speed to approximately 1200 RPM to increase the charge rate. My vehicle has a 165 amp alternator, which is required for certification by the Federal Specification for the “Star-of-Life Ambulance,” KKK-A-1822 Standard.
The large rectangular hole is where the Electronic Siren Control Head was located. The Siren Amplifier itself is located in the rear on one of the electrical panels. If I recall correctly, Carl already removed it also. It cracks me up when people such as employees, sales people, etc. take (steal) equipment off of an out of service unit and grab the siren control head thinking they have a complete siren. BTW, if you redesign that panel and decide not to use that amp meter I sure would like to have it, because mine has been replaced by a piece of junk and I’ll be relocating most of this to the rear.
4. The Block Heater – The 120VAC circuit for the block heater starts at the back of the Shore Power inlet (recessed male) mounted on the driver’s side of the module just above the driver’s door handle, goes to the lighted house type wall switch behind the driver’s seat, and then to the yellow female receptacle under the hood. The block heater has a 3’ pigtail on it which plugs into this receptacle. Since the block heater is not normally needed in the summer time (ok, I’m in Florida), the switch allows it to be turned off. This circuit bypasses everything else 120VAC related in the module. I did not check mine with a meter and have already removed it, but I’ll double check tomorrow if it's not raining to make sure this is correct. Note! Apparently, a lot of people had problems with that circuit under the hood for some reason, and replaced it with a piece of orange extension cord. Mine was the same way.
5. The main battery disconnect switch is located on the left side of the driver’s seat, but I guess you already know that. Since mine is not running, I can’t verify this, but with the older vehicles I believe the engine will not start unless this switch is on. On March 1, 1999, Ford issued QVM Bulletin No. Q-63 which states...
Sorry for the slight derail at first, but since this was my first post I felt I needed to quantify my answers. I hope this helps, plus I've accumulated a lot more information and websites in the last four months that may help also. Just let me know.
~ Patrick (Pat)
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Well, and no offense, but I might have to go through the paperwork for a legal name change. Not sure Belafonte is ringin my bell.
Have you seen 'The Life Aquatic' with Bill Murray in it? It is where the name comes from. Just fyi.
flightcancled
Explorer
That's the idea! That way with one plug the unit would be ready to rock and roll any time. Also if you haven't noticed yet it should say "Auto-Eject" on the cover which means when you start the engine the plug is thrown free. (In my case this can also cause a loud inexplicable snap when turning the key.)
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hobietony
Explorer
The Belafonte (Keep the name BTW) and my rig are both the short wheelbase/wide box configuration, which seems to be less common. It was important to me to keep the DRWs, I wanted to maximize trackwidth/stability with the wide box. I also have the UJOR 6" lift, and am a bit of a Fanboy for Chris' system.
HOWEVER, your thoughts of 37s and keeping the DRW wont be compatible, at least without going to something like 19.5 wheels... UJOR uses front axles with 8x170 bolt pattern, so you need spacers at the rear to convert from 8x6.5 to 8x170. This prevents you from running a spacer between the duallys, so the biggest tire you can put on 16" wheels is a 255/85/16, about a 33". This is what I have, the tires look small, especially in front. I think the duallys look great though, and I've personally never found that they have been a problem off road. Lots of people say duallys suck off road, but I've never been driving and thought "Id sure be better with a SRW right now". I'm sure that would change the first time I get a rock wedged between that ruins both tires. YMMV
The rig
